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Old 05-06-2016, 01:24 AM   #1
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Ran batteries down - now having issues

I brought our coach home on Monday and parked.
Went out today and the chassis battery was totally dead. Could not
get it going with the batt boost button either.
Put a charger on the chassis battery for a bit and it started up. Ran the generator for a while as well.

I could not get the AC to come on, nor any of the TV's. This makes me think I was having a 110V problem. Perhaps I ran the house batteries down and did not have the power to run these 110V items?

I ordered a 50amp->30amp adapter so that I can plug it in at my house, which I assume will charge the batteries. It's not here yet - hopefully tomorrow.

The front power shade would only come down about 1/3rd of the way and then would stop, and when I turned on the video screen for the rear camera, it said "no signal". All of these items were working on Monday.
Seems like these are related to the depleted batteries too. Is there a way to reset the motors for the power shade so that they will allow it to fully drop down?

Any other thoughts/suggestions appreciated - thanks!

CY
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:38 AM   #2
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The front power shade should not go down all of the way if the engine is running. Have you tried it with the engine off?

What do the 'command center' lights indicate as to the charge for the house batteries?

Is the battery control center turned on? This is needs to be engaged to power the TV's and AC. If there is not enough charge in the house batteries the battery control center may not engage.

Hope the helps.
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:22 AM   #3
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Ran batteries down - now having issues

A couple of things you can try, when I put my coach in storage I plug just the battery charger into110 volt receptacle directly, that way I don't have to use those "50 amp to 30 amp to 110 volt" adapters. It keeps both house and chassis batteries charged.
After charging the house batteries then turn on the "coach battery" solenoid switch.
If the ignition key is turned on the front shade will not go down more than 1/3 way.
As for the video screen message maybe the radio got reset and needs to be reprogrammed.
With no 110 volts maybe the transfer switch is not working. This might be your whole issue with no 110 power to the coach then no charge, no power and run down batteries that won't charge.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:20 AM   #4
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The front shade issue is probably related to your chassis battery going dead and it needs to be reprogrammed. There is a push button switch that hangs down on the drivers side that you can use for re-programming. I am sure that it is confused.

Now, besides that you have run the generator and the engine. When you run the generator you are not getting any 110v in the RV? No plugs, no appliances, no AC?

If that is true you potentially have a problem with the transfer switch but this is totally unrelated to your DC battery problems, which makes me wonder if I am just confused about your narrative.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:33 AM   #5
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Can you clarify?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrapperman View Post
A couple of things you can try, when I put my coach in storage I plug just the battery charger into110 volt receptacle directly, that way I don't have to use those "50 amp to 30 amp to 110 volt" adapters. It keeps both house and chassis batteries charged.
After charging the house batteries then turn on the "coach battery" solenoid switch.
If the ignition key is turned on the front shade will not go down more than 1/3 way.
As for the video screen message maybe the radio got reset and needs to be reprogrammed.
With no 110 volts maybe the transfer switch is not working. This might be your whole issue with no 110 power to the coach then no charge, no power and run down batteries that won't charge.
Hey Wrapper - thanks for the response.

When you say "plug the battery charger into 110", what battery charger are you referring to? Is there one on the coach itself in the back bay that has a 110v plug that I can simply plug into a wall outlet?

CY
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CombatYoga View Post
I brought our coach home on Monday and parked.
Went out today and the chassis battery was totally dead. Could not
get it going with the batt boost button either.
Put a charger on the chassis battery for a bit and it started up. Ran the generator for a while as well.

I could not get the AC to come on, nor any of the TV's. This makes me think I was having a 110V problem. Perhaps I ran the house batteries down and did not have the power to run these 110V items?

I ordered a 50amp->30amp adapter so that I can plug it in at my house, which I assume will charge the batteries. It's not here yet - hopefully tomorrow.

The front power shade would only come down about 1/3rd of the way and then would stop, and when I turned on the video screen for the rear camera, it said "no signal". All of these items were working on Monday.
Seems like these are related to the depleted batteries too. Is there a way to reset the motors for the power shade so that they will allow it to fully drop down?

Any other thoughts/suggestions appreciated - thanks!

CY
Since you didn't state which HM you own, a couple of questions come to mind.
1) Since you don't have your 50A to 30A adapter, was your coach plugged into 110V when the A/C and thee TV's didn't work?
2) If not plugged into 110V or running the generator, does your HM have an inverter? If not, any 110V appliance WILL NOT work on a converter.
3) The fact that your chassis batteries are dead should have little or no effect on your 110V appliances working if your supplying them with 110V.

Any comments will help us to help you!
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:55 AM   #7
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answers to your questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSchleder View Post
Since you didn't state which HM you own, a couple of questions come to mind.
1) Since you don't have your 50A to 30A adapter, was your coach plugged into 110V when the A/C and thee TV's didn't work?
2) If not plugged into 110V or running the generator, does your HM have an inverter? If not, any 110V appliance WILL NOT work on a converter.
3) The fact that your chassis batteries are dead should have little or no effect on your 110V appliances working if your supplying them with 110V.

Any comments will help us to help you!
Thanks RSchleder. Let me see if can answer some of your questions.
What does HM stand for?
My year/model is a 2015 Georgetown 270S.

1) No - the coach was not plugged into 110v when I was attempting to get the AC and TV's to work; the coach motor and generator were both running.
2) My coach does not have an inverter. I would not expect to get 110v anywhere unless the generator was running (which it was).
3) OK - what you are saying makes sense; so now I'm mystified as to why I'm not getting 110v power in the coach when the generator is running.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:24 PM   #8
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Forgive the noob...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CombatYoga View Post
Hey Wrapper - thanks for the response.

When you say "plug the battery charger into 110", what battery charger are you referring to? Is there one on the coach itself in the back bay that has a 110v plug that I can simply plug into a wall outlet?

CY
OK - so I went and checked the bay back where the 50 amp cord is and I see a Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger. Reading up, it looks like this is what you are referring to.
I've attached a picture - I'm 99% sure that plug is for that converter, and I think you are suggesting unplugging it from the outlet in the coach and plugging it into an outlet from my house to charge the batteries, correct?
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:29 PM   #9
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There are two breakers on the generator itself. If they are tripped the generator will run but you will have no AC power inside the MH
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:29 PM   #10
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[QUOTE...so now I'm mystified as to why I'm not getting 110v power in the coach when the generator is running.[/QUOTE]

As are we. Either your transfer switch is stuck or the breakers are turned off. You should get 110 v with the genny running totally independent of your battery problems. You should also have all of your internal lights working, your pressure pump, your stairs, all of the 12 v stuff since your converter should be supplying 12v anyway.
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