Refuse to Pay 40+ Bucks for a Water Filter

alparmer · 04-24-2014, 12:59 PM

20 bucks for the filter assembly and 16 for two filters. The only problem was that the in/out was reversed. I had to install a bracket to secure it even though it wasn't really necessary. The original filter assembly had a bracket mounted to the flimsy plastic board which didn't secure anything. If you have removed/installed the original filter's cup, you would have had to hold the top part with one hand while cranking on the cup with a tool. With this setup you can use both hands on the cup and can see when it is fully seated. Not to mention filters are at a fraction of the cost.

k3wtf · 04-24-2014, 01:09 PM

Don't we have to pay attention to gph or flow?

youroo · 04-24-2014, 01:16 PM

Was your housing one that was (Unscrewing and falling off by itself)? Also do you use the same hose for the F/W fill and the black flush?

Youroo!!

alparmer · 04-24-2014, 01:18 PM

I can't afford to pay attention! ;-)

The original KW1 filter is rated for 2.5 gpm where the new one is double that amount. Can't figure out why double the GPMs is a bad thing. We are not talking about more pressure on the lines/fittings, we are talking better flow through the filter and IMO better on the pump. I could be wrong, but that how I looked at it. We could definitely afford the expensive original filter, but it felt like it was a monopoly on FRs part with their own particular FR1 and KW1 model numbers. I also didn't like how the cup fits on the assembly. I didn't have any issues if I really cranked on it, but other folks have had the filter pop off for not knowing when it was fully seated. It looks like FR fixed it later by adding a mark. Happy Happy Happy.

alparmer · 04-24-2014, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by youroo

Was your housing one that was (Unscrewing and falling off by itself)? Also do you use the same hose for the F/W fill and the black flush?

Youroo!!

No, it wasn't ours. Haven't used the back flush yet, but when we do we have a separate green hose for anything sewer related if there isn't one available at the station.

Scagsdale · 04-25-2014, 09:21 AM

My filter housing is so tight that I can't get it off. There must be some real gorillas working at the factory. Going to work on that more today along with the lug nuts on the rear wheel covers.

alparmer · 04-25-2014, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scagsdale

My filter housing is so tight that I can't get it off. There must be some real gorillas working at the factory. Going to work on that more today along with the lug nuts on the rear wheel covers.

There isn't a way to over torque the cup. It's hard to remove and install. Make sure pressure is released from the system before removing the cup. You may need someone to hold the top housing while you crank on the cup with the tool.

dutch · 04-25-2014, 12:49 PM

Al,

can you tell me what type of filter assembly that is and where did you get that at.

Thanks

alparmer · 04-25-2014, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutch

Al,

can you tell me what type of filter assembly that is and where did you get that at.

Thanks

Dutch, the filter assembly is a Pentek 158649 and the filters are Dupont WFPFC8002

Here is the link for the filter assembly: Pentek 158649 1/2" 3G Slim Line 10" Clear Housing Only $19.35

Here is the link for the filters: DuPont Whole House 10-inch Carbon Filter WFPFC8002 Only $6.89

R Whitlow · 04-25-2014, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alparmmer

20 bucks for the filter assembly and 16 for two filters. The only problem was that the in/out was reversed. I had to install a bracket to secure it even though it wasn't really necessary. The original filter assembly had a bracket mounted to the flimsy plastic board which didn't secure anything. If you have removed/installed the original filter's cup, you would have had to hold the top part with one hand while cranking on the cup with a tool. With this setup you can use both hands on the cup and can see when it is fully seated. Not to mention filters are at a fraction of the cost.

Go to lowes home improvement store. They have them a lot cheaper.

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dimurrrw · 04-25-2014, 01:27 PM

Have you considered the possibility that the cheaper filters do not have the same filtering capacity, as expressed in microns, as the more expensive ones? From your picture it seems that you have installed a pre-filter that keeps your system clean but does not filter out the cysts and other "bugs" that could make you sick. Also, I think that the density of the filtering medium in the two different filters would account for the difference in GPM.

alparmer · 04-25-2014, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dimurrrw

Have you considered the possibility that the cheaper filters do not have the same filtering capacity, as expressed in microns, as the more expensive ones? From your picture it seems that you have installed a pre-filter that keeps your system clean but does not filter out the cysts and other "bugs" that could make you sick. Also, it seems to me that the density of the filtering medium in the two different filters would account for the difference in GPM.

Of course I considered that possibility. After all, you pay for what you get.

Here is my take on it. Had a pop up camper for years and never used a filter. Had a TT for years and never used a filter. The first time we used a filter was on our last TT. Bought it because I saw it hanging in the RV section at Wally World. It was one of those Camco in line ones that you attach to the water hose. No one has ever gotten sick from drinking tap water in any of our RVs. This was before drinking bottle water became an addiction.

Now, the incentive with having a full size refrigerator with ice and water dispenser is to use it and stop drinking bottled water. With that being said, the refrigerator also has a filter. So far, no one has used the water dispenser. However, we do use the ice maker and if you do get bad water it could be a problem. Then again I have two filters.

Like I said, we've camped a lot and no ones that I know off has gotten sick from tap water. As far as the fresh water tank, it gets sanitized once a year. For us, if it wasn't for the ice maker we probably would have removed the filter element after it was used up.

I could be wrong, but IMO, FR somehow got a deal with WaterPur in what I think is an attempt to capitalize on having everyone forced to buy the filters through them. Why is it that the filter assembly and filters have a specific FR part number. Are there no other filters out there that they cold have used?

leland1950 · 04-25-2014, 02:13 PM

Use the same hose for everything. Just get a garden hose backflow check valve at Lowe's, you should have one anyway, a lot of systems have been contaminated by the "old stick it in the wash bucket", know it doesn't sound like it could, but whole town water supplies have been compromised. Same thing can happen with the kitchen sprayer in the sink.
A little away from the topic but my dealer didn't even have the original filter, so did the same thing only on a stand outside.

alparmer · 04-25-2014, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leland1950

Use the same hose for everything. Just get a garden hose backflow check valve at Lowe's, you should have one anyway, a lot of systems have been contaminated by the "old stick it in the wash bucket", know it doesn't sound like it could, but whole town water supplies have been compromised. Same thing can happen with the kitchen sprayer in the sink.
A little away from the topic but my dealer didn't even have the original filter, so did the same thing only on a stand outside.

All our inputs including the black tank sprayer have valves in them, but I like having two hoses. A white one for shore water or to fill the tank, and a green one for all sewer purposes. I keep them separated.

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