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Old 08-28-2013, 01:29 AM   #21
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yes these batteries are taller but will not hit steps. The hyd. lines I used 3 large plastic strips to pull them upwards,clearence now is 3 inch away from batteries. these batteries will hold a lot longer than 12 volts,same problem I had with 36 foot 5th wheel. They are trogan 110 deep cycle golf cart battery. Hope this helps. Pete
oops I made a mistake they are t~105 62lbs. length 10 3/8, wide.7 1/8, high 10/7/8 20hr.ah is 225.i had to go and look at batteries its a old guy thing. Pete
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:16 AM   #22
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If you are loosing battery's because of built up sul. on your plates they make an excellent solution to that it is called and made by POWERPLUS you just hook it up to the plus and minus side and it will keep your plates clean. The cost is like 39 or 49.00 dollar's. My Battery's were getting to a point of not taking a full charge. I added this and in week I was reading 12.6 from 12.1. They say it will extend your battery life by 3 years.............
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:09 AM   #23
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Their is alway more than one way to skin a cat and finding a replacement battery is like tires.

With all this information my head hurts at times and when the time comes to replace my batteries I plan to pull up to Sam's Club with my motrohome and buy two sealed AGM batteries that fit and let them install. That will be $279 please cash or credit?
I'm glad you have the $300+ (including tax) to throw away on batteries. AGM batteries have lots of advantages over wet cell ones but, to get full life out of them, you need to charge them a little differently than wet cells. I have a charger that can be used for three different types of lead acid batteries, one of which is AGM. Each type of battery has a slightly different type of charge cycle, and using the wrong cycle on a battery can be detrimental to its service life.

As far as I know, almost all "standard" converters, from any manufacturer, intended for RV use, are designed to charge wet cell lead acid batteries. The part of the charge cycle that produces some hydrogen outgassing (and fluid loss) in the wet cell battery can cause permanent loss of capacity in an AGM battery because there's no way to replace the lost media.

If you change to AGM batteries, I'd also look for a replacement converter than can be set to recharge that type of battery.

Phil Sherman
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:44 AM   #24
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I went with 4 Interstate Deep Cell Extreem 6 volt 232 Ah batteries, 288 watts solar on the roof. My solar charge controller automatically controls 3 levels of charge rates and cycles in the D-Sulf phase as well. Two 6 volt batteries at 232 Ah each placed in series equals 232 because in series you do not add the 232 together to get 464 it stays at 232. Since I have 4 (2 sets in series gives me 464 Ah) all this is recent mod so I haven't had a chance to dry camp and put it to the test yet.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:45 AM   #25
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I went with 4 Interstate Deep Cell Extreem 6 volt 232 Ah batteries, 288 watts solar on the roof. My solar charge controller automatically controls 3 levels of charge rates and cycles in the D-Sulf phase as well. Two 6 volt batteries at 232 Ah each placed in series equals 232 because in series you do not add the 232 together to get 464 it stays at 232. Since I have 4 (2 sets in series gives me 464 Ah) all this is recent mod so I haven't had a chance to dry camp and put it to the test yet.
sounds good let us know all works out. Pete
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:21 AM   #26
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I went with 4 Interstate Deep Cell Extreem 6 volt 232 Ah batteries, 288 watts solar on the roof. My solar charge controller automatically controls 3 levels of charge rates and cycles in the D-Sulf phase as well. Two 6 volt batteries at 232 Ah each placed in series equals 232 because in series you do not add the 232 together to get 464 it stays at 232. Since I have 4 (2 sets in series gives me 464 Ah) all this is recent mod so I haven't had a chance to dry camp and put it to the test yet.
Using a series/parallel wiring arrangement for multiple 6V batteries is a great way to increase your battery capacity over a pair of 12V deep cycle batteries. The one critical wiring requirement is to equalize all of the cable lengths to balance the load on both pairs of batteries. This is done by using the same length cable between the + and - terminals of the series connected pairs and again, using the same length cables to make the parallel connections between the the two pairs of batteries. The final step is to use the - terminal on one series pair and the + terminal of the other series pair for the load wires.

Balancing the load on the batteries will cause equal discharge and charge rates for both batteries which will add to their service life. This type of wiring arrangement is what's used for solar power systems but it's a lot more complex when using larger numbers of batteries where the physical layout of the batteries needs to conform to an available space and still give access to the cells to add distilled water. Don't forget that a battery's capacity changes as it ages which means that if one of your batteries fails after a year or so, you will need to replace, at a minimum, both batteries in that series connected pair.

My biggest fear when working around large batteries is the possibility of dropping a wrench across terminals creating a short. I've solved this by buying a composite socket driver from Harbor Freight. It's not metal and won't create a short if it touches the wrong things at the same time.

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Old 08-31-2013, 11:32 AM   #27
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sounds good let us know all works out. Pete
Will do, just a side note I truly believe DW wouldn't go camping with me if I didn't provide a television (with her favorite channels) so I put in a 750 watt inverter and hooked the circuit that feeds the Tv outlet directly to the inverter output, purchased a Tail Gate portable sat. dish from dish network. Also replaced 28 inside lights with LED's.
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:46 AM   #28
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Using a series/parallel wiring arrangement for multiple 6V batteries is a great way to increase your battery capacity over a pair of 12V deep cycle batteries. The one critical wiring requirement is to equalize all of the cable lengths to balance the load on both pairs of batteries. This is done by using the same length cable between the + and - terminals of the series connected pairs and again, using the same length cables to make the parallel connections between the the two pairs of batteries. The final step is to use the - terminal on one series pair and the + terminal of the other series pair for the load wires.

Balancing the load on the batteries will cause equal discharge and charge rates for both batteries which will add to their service life. This type of wiring arrangement is what's used for solar power systems but it's a lot more complex when using larger numbers of batteries where the physical layout of the batteries needs to conform to an available space and still give access to the cells to add distilled water. Don't forget that a battery's capacity changes as it ages which means that if one of your batteries fails after a year or so, you will need to replace, at a minimum, both batteries in that series connected pair.

My biggest fear when working around large batteries is the possibility of dropping a wrench across terminals creating a short. I've solved this by buying a composite socket driver from Harbor Freight. It's not metal and won't create a short if it touches the wrong things at the same time.

Phil
Thanks for the pointers Phil, but I am ahead of you on this as I read many threads on the subject before starting (Herk etc). I placed the batteries in a box (from Harbor Freight, love this place) that fits between the frame of the TT tongue. Wire lengths are all matched, charge controller is wired accross all four bateries for even charge, a marine battery switch is in place I can pull from one pair at a time or both pairs together (if I lose a battery I can switch and pull only from the other pair). Installed a battery monitoring system (actually 2 monitoring systems as my charge controller came with it's own system). Like the idea of composite tools, I'll go and get a set, Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:04 PM   #29
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I originally started this question on what type of battery to replace existing in my motorhome.

The subject has changed a little to two 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 6 volts in series. Whicher has a most amps usually last longer.

With that said I must add a little fuel to the fire.

1. If you DON'T dry camp what do you need? Motorhome/trailer/5th wheel.
My Answer
I would pick two high amperage 6 volts AGM's in series.
Recharging will take much less time while on a quick high charger.

2. If you ONLY need batteries just travelling from point A to point B and will plug in shore power? Just enough DC to keep your refrigerator cool controls working on propane.
My Answer
I would pick two 12 volts on a good 3 or 4 stage charger. This will lengthen the life of the batteries as long as you monitor and fill when needed.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:45 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
I originally started this question on what type of battery to replace existing in my motorhome.

The subject has changed a little to two 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 6 volts in series. Whicher has a most amps usually last longer.

With that said I must add a little fuel to the fire.

1. If you DON'T dry camp what do you need? Motorhome/trailer/5th wheel.
My Answer
I would pick two high amperage 6 volts AGM's in series.
Recharging will take much less time while on a quick high charger.

2. If you ONLY need batteries just travelling from point A to point B and will plug in shore power? Just enough DC to keep your refrigerator cool controls working on propane.
My Answer
I would pick two 12 volts on a good 3 or 4 stage charger. This will lengthen the life of the batteries as long as you monitor and fill when needed.
X2 on that Iggy you are right on, it does depend on your camping style/plans thus many approaches become relevant.
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