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Old 02-17-2015, 12:05 PM   #1
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Self oil change/lube

So this morning I changed oil/filter in both V10 and gen set. Also greased the chassis steering gear. Some observations for those of you who have not done this but think you might. The V10 oil change is a messy procedure. You will need a good sized catch pan for the old oil. The drain plug is located directly above a wide beam and unless you have an after market drain plug/valve extension, the oil will splash all over. Best to wear eye protection as a drop of hot oil will do more than lubricate your eyeball. A good oil filter wrench makes that part of the job much easier. I like the type that looks like a big pair of skinny pliers. They grip great and work in tight locations. The gen set is much easier, drains in a straight down flow. As for installing the drain plug and new oil filters. Do not over tighten them. Install the filters by hand, not using a wrench. Snug down until tight and then a quarter turn. Snug the drain plug nice and tight but don't force it. Use a 5/8 box wrench or socket. Don't use an open end wrench so you won't risk rounding corners.

Adding the new oil to the V10 is not easy. The fill pipe is quite high and awkward to reach. I buy the 5 quart jugs from Wallmart but I first pour the oil from the jug into a one quart container. I also use a funnel. Even tho I try to be careful I still manage to spill some of the new oil. Its just a messy tedious procedure with little vertical clearance above the fill pipe.

As for the lube job. Start with your front wheels pointing straight forward. Unless I missed any I count 5 grease fittings on the driver side and three on the passenger side for a total of 8. Six of the eight can be serviced with the wheels pointed forward. To get the other two turn the wheels hard to the right as if making a right turn. The hardest fitting to lube are the two on top of the king pins. The rest are pretty easy but you will want a flex tip on the end of the grease gun. Be careful when greasing the four king pin fittings. They are right next to the brake rotors and you don't want excess grease to get on them.

Lastly, the whole process under the front of the coach is much easier if you drive or jack the front wheels up on two 2x10 wood blocks that raise the front end 4". Does not sound like much but it really makes access much easier. You can use your front jacks to lift the front wheels, slide the blocks under the wheels and then lower the jacks. Don't work under the rig using the jacks alone.

Finally, wear old clothing, including a long sleeve shirt. I like to use cheap throw away latex gloves like health care folks use. Makes clean up so much easier when you are done. And I don't do all of this on my drive way. Too messy. I use a mulched parking area so any spilled oil is not a problem. An old blanket or similar would be a good idea if you use your drive way. I figure I save about $100 by doing these items myself. But at age 73, I may not do it much longer.
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:42 PM   #2
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Great overview for your maintenance.

Here is a few ways to make your next oil change easier.

1. By a FOMOTO valve that will replace your oil drain plug. I have one that I attach a long clear hose and drain into any containers. You can stop by turning the valve off to change containers. I use my wifes old bleach bottle and liquid fabric softener and even some of her gallon jugs of tea she buys.
Here is a link to the page for the Ford F-53 V10 Fumoto Valves.


Search Results | Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valves


2. I have a friend who has a diesel pushed and he gave me a spout that normally comes with the DFI fluid he buys at the service station in Gallon jugs. The spout easily attached to any oil quart, gallon 5 qt jugs.
When you have it on you just squeeze the jug and the oil will expel out the funnel and into the filler tube of the engine.

Here is a generic jug with the attached funnel that screws onto it.

Hope these suggestions help you and others.
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Old 02-17-2015, 04:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Great overview for your maintenance.

Here is a few ways to make your next oil change easier.

1. By a FOMOTO valve that will replace your oil drain plug. I have one that I attach a long clear hose and drain into any containers. You can stop by turning the valve off to change containers. I use my wifes old bleach bottle and liquid fabric softener and even some of her gallon jugs of tea she buys.
Here is a link to the page for the Ford F-53 V10 Fumoto Valves.


Search Results | Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valves


2. I have a friend who has a diesel pushed and he gave me a spout that normally comes with the DFI fluid he buys at the service station in Gallon jugs. The spout easily attached to any oil quart, gallon 5 qt jugs.
When you have it on you just squeeze the jug and the oil will expel out the funnel and into the filler tube of the engine.

Here is a generic jug with the attached funnel that screws onto it.

Hope these suggestions help you and others.



Thanks Iggy for both great ideas!
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:57 PM   #4
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I take my unit to a local truck repair facility that I have been using for 40 years. I buy my oil and filter at Wal mart. They change my oil and filter and lube the chassis for 12.50.
My suggestion for anyone that doesn't want to change it themselves is to find a locally own truck repair facility and ask them what they charge if you buy the oil and filter.
I did call around to several quick lube facilities and they all said they would do it for labor only.
I change the oil I the generator myself but maybe I'll ask them about changing it also.


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Old 02-17-2015, 09:19 PM   #5
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Yeah for the price I have been paying $45.00 which included the oil, plus $10.00 more for the lube, I cannot see the mess and the time to do it myself....plus they dispose of the oil all while waiting 30 minutes.

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Old 02-18-2015, 12:25 AM   #6
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X2 on the Fumoto valve. I suggest the "N" version that accepts a length of plastic tubing. Part# F106N. The oil drains right into a bottle, and you won't spill a drop. As for not spilling any oil when removing the filter, a plastic oil pan or gallon Zip-Lock bag helps.

There is a 9th grease fitting located on the power steering gearbox. It's tough to see because besides being on the top, it is also covered by a black plastic cap.

To properly lubricate the right and left kingpins (4 grease fittings) the front axle should be jacked slightly so that the weight is off the wheel as each side's kingpin is lubricated.

Valvoline makes a grease that contains molybdenum which meets the Ford specifications. It is available at Autozone stores.
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:42 AM   #7
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The nearest truck service facility is 20 miles from my house. They charged $80 for the oil change and lube not including the gen set. It takes me a little over a half hour each way to drive there. Then it usually takes about an hour and a half including wait time for my turn before they are done. At 8 miles/gal it also costs about $15 dollars in gas. At home I can get the job done in less time than it takes to go to/from the garage for service and I don't have to deal with traffic. I should add I started out working in garages servicing cars while in high school and during college and have a well equipped garage at home where I did major vehicle repairs as a hobby. For years I would buy cars and vans cheap that needed work and fix them up to use or resell. Always had at least one "project" either a boat or car that I was working on. Don't do that now that I'm 73 but still like to service my own stuff. Gone are the days of a timing light and dwell tachometer, life was so much simpler back then.
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Old 02-19-2015, 09:24 PM   #8
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I found a picture of my Fomoto Valve on the oil pan.
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Old 02-19-2015, 09:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornelius View Post
X2 on the Fumoto valve. I suggest the "N" version that accepts a length of plastic tubing. Part# F106N. The oil drains right into a bottle, and you won't spill a drop. As for not spilling any oil when removing the filter, a plastic oil pan or gallon Zip-Lock bag helps.

There is a 9th grease fitting located on the power steering gearbox. It's tough to see because besides being on the top, it is also covered by a black plastic cap.

To properly lubricate the right and left kingpins (4 grease fittings) the front axle should be jacked slightly so that the weight is off the wheel as each side's kingpin is lubricated.

Valvoline makes a grease that contains molybdenum which meets the Ford specifications. It is available at Autozone stores.

I have not seen the #9 on my rig. Will have to look next time. Here is a picture and all #9 is a bolt and nut.
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Old 02-20-2015, 07:29 AM   #10
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Iggy, the easy way to view zert 9 is to open the engine compartment hood and look to the left of the nut and bolt you pictured. The zert is on the top front of the steering box shaft housing to which the nut and bolt is attached. You definitely have one and it is covered by a small plastic cap that is easy to pop off and replace after lubing. You can't see zert 9 from underneath the chassis.
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