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Old 05-27-2015, 04:03 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Yarome View Post
Can you say "Progressive Dynamics charge wizard"? Ohh... that's right.. you CAN!

Completely different animal to a stock converter.
Paaaaa POW!

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Old 05-27-2015, 04:12 PM   #12
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Yarome,
I did not realize that keeping the batteries fully charged via shore power was a bad thing.... I have always kept other batteries to boats, for example, fully charged via a trickle charger during winter storage? Are you saying that the RV ATS does not do a proper job keeping batteries properly charged over long periods?
Disconnected and using a battery tender or the like is my preferred method for long term storage. I guess I should say.. it depends. "Most" stock converter/chargers can potentially harm your batteries if kept power on over a lengthy period of time. What some would call a "dumb" 3 stage charger.

Something like a Progressive Dynamics replacement, with their charge wizard, or similar.. a 4 stage "smart" charger.. then no. Keeping shore power on and connected isn't really an issue.

Of course, type of battery plays a big part, but for the sake of argument, I was assuming that you have some type and size of wet cell.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:30 PM   #13
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Our 351DS can keep an already cold fridge and freezer going for around 24 on the 4 house batteries before I recharge them. They are far from dead at that point but quite low.

Great info in this thread, helps me understand a little better how the system works.

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Old 05-27-2015, 04:59 PM   #14
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It will just depend on what type and size of battery bank you have. Just an average, but most RV sized residential's will run around 6-7amps full load and peak loads around 11'ish.

So.. 6.5amps x 110vac = 715watts
715watts / 12vdc = call it 59amps

It won't be running all the time, but say in a 24 hour period.. 10 minutes on the hour would be 240 minutes / 60... roughly 4 hours of actual run time.

4hrs x 59amps = 236ah's
236ah's + 24ah's (parasitic) = 260ah's

Considering 260ah's a 50% battery bank draw would put you around 520ah's of battery capacity needed to run your residential fridge for 24 hours... providing of course that you don't run anything else (lights, WH, water pump, TV, etc). And of course... we haven't subtracted the juice that the inverter will need to make it all happen. ;-)

That's pretty darn steep. Roughly the equivalent of 6 - 6v GC's.

Based on your own battery bank's available amp hour capacity it should give you a guesstimate of about how long your's will last.
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Old 05-27-2015, 05:41 PM   #15
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Hi!
We also have the 351DS - our storage only has a 15 amp plug, but here is what we did for all of last year -

Everything turned off except fridge - plugged into 15 amp and we never had any issues. We also have an old cell phone that we downloaded an app called "Power Outage Alarm" that was also connected to the same circuit.
On the few occasions when the power went out (the outlet is a GFCI, and was tempremental until replaced) the phone sent us a text message (the phone is set up as a go-phone) to tell us the power was out. We then knew we had about 24-36 hours to get out there and reset it or figure out what was wrong.
The free version of the app only tells you when it goes off, the $0.99 version tells you when it goes back on.
Our 351 also has the progressive dynamics charge wizard included (it's in the basement by the plug) so there was no danger of frying the batteries. We also have a hard-wired progressive industries surge protector back there as well.
When we were done camping for the year, we winterized, turned everything off (including the fridge and battery disconnect) until we were ready to go camping again.
I LOVED having the fridge all plugged in- we keep things in the freezer, and stuff in the fridge as well - with the cell phone monitor, I'm not concerned that anything will go bad before I can get to it either. Especially when you are a weekend only camper like us, everything I don't have to haul back and forth saves me time and effort.
Just my experience!!!
Garren
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Old 05-27-2015, 07:20 PM   #16
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My understanding is when the shore power is plugged in there is a different ATS that switches the refrigerator over to shore power, bypassing the inverter. Meaning the batteries and inverter are not being used.
A Xantrex ATS is used in my 2013 378XL


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Old 05-27-2015, 07:52 PM   #17
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My understanding is when the shore power is plugged in there is a different ATS that switches the refrigerator over to shore power, bypassing the inverter. Meaning the batteries and inverter are not being used.
If it's a factory install then that is more than likely true... automatic switching. Or rather it's the inverter that has a pass through transfer switch in most cases. However, just being "on" and in idle/standby mode drinks a little juice. Nothing extreme but it is continuous and comes right off the top.

Nothing wrong at all with leaving it on. I just prefer to keep it off when in a storage situation. I would rather risk leftovers than my battery bank.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:51 PM   #18
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You're right yarome it does have a built in transfer switch. Making it ideal for running the fridge when the RV is plugged in or not.


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Old 05-29-2015, 07:08 AM   #19
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Garren,

That is awesome about the power out app -- I have always been uncomfortable leaving my pets in the RV when temps are high for fear of having power go out and therefore the AC. Will have to look into this further.

Having this for the fridge is a nice extra benefit that could be handy too.

Thanks! Oh, and sorry to slightly derail....
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