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Old 05-23-2019, 09:26 PM   #1
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Shore power Question.

I have a Forest River series 5. When I use my adapter and plug in to basic 120 with no appliances or lights on I can hear qthe distribution box kick in and then within a minute or two it kicks a breaker. If I turn off the the main power switch just inside the door (I am assuming the power from batteries )it won’t throw the breaker. When I am plugged in to a 30 or 50 amp plug there is no problem.
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Old 05-23-2019, 09:58 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Tncatfanforever View Post
I have a Forest River series 5. When I use my adapter and plug in to basic 120 with no appliances or lights on I can hear qthe distribution box kick in and then within a minute or two it kicks a breaker. If I turn off the the main power switch just inside the door (I am assuming the power from batteries )it won’t throw the breaker. When I am plugged in to a 30 or 50 amp plug there is no problem.
I am assuming you are talking about the breaker that the power cord is plugged into. Then.
Do you have a residential fridge?
Maybe between that and trying to charge your batteries you're over 15 amps
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:38 PM   #3
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I am assuming you are talking about the breaker that the power cord is plugged into. Then.
Do you have a residential fridge?
Maybe between that and trying to charge your batteries you're over 15 amps
Water heater probably is set to "on". Switch off the electric to the water heater and try again.
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Old 05-23-2019, 11:01 PM   #4
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Are you sure the campground power is good?
Are you a 50 amp or 30 amp?
What do you mean kicks a breaker? Which one? Inside or campground power?

Do you have all AC units off as well as the electric water heater switch?
If all is good and verified proceed to #1 below

1. Turn off the main breaker and all the smaller 120 volt breakers inside.

2. Plug into shore power

3. Turn on main breaker inside only. Does anything trips?
If not proceed to next step

4. Turn on 1 breaker at a time inside and wait to see if power trips off

5. Keep turning on each breaker until the main power drops out and you found your problem circuit.
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Old 05-24-2019, 05:50 AM   #5
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Are you sure the campground power is good?
Are you a 50 amp or 30 amp?
What do you mean kicks a breaker? Which one? Inside or campground power?

Do you have all AC units off as well as the electric water heater switch?
If all is good and verified proceed to #1 below

1. Turn off the main breaker and all the smaller 120 volt breakers inside.

2. Plug into shore power

3. Turn on main breaker inside only. Does anything trips?
If not proceed to next step

4. Turn on 1 breaker at a time inside and wait to see if power trips off

5. Keep turning on each breaker until the main power drops out and you found your problem circuit.
Thanks for the diagnostic steps. It occurs when I use a basic extension cord and plug into a 20 amp circuit. I will use this method to trace it out. I am fairly certain the water heaters and fridge and other things are off.
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:30 AM   #6
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did we confirm that the breaker that is tripping is for the 20 amp circuit that the extension cord is plugged into? is the receptacle that the extension cord is plugged into by chance a GFCI receptacle? try turning all branch circuits in the rv off and then turn on only the GFCI circuit in the rv on. does the receptacle breaker trip then? if so you may have the two GFCI in series issue.
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:59 AM   #7
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Be sure you are using a heavy duty extension cord (12 guage) and as short as possible. Most likely culprit is the hot water heater. Turn it off.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:53 AM   #8
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Is the 20 Amp a GFCI source?

If so, it is not unusual for the stray capacitance of all the wires in an RV to trip a GFCI.
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Old 05-24-2019, 05:16 PM   #9
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Is the 20 Amp a GFCI source?

If so, it is not unusual for the stray capacitance of all the wires in an RV to trip a GFCI.
I may have found the problem. My one control panel was showing my electric and gas off on my water heaters but they were on. I had to flip the on off switch on the actual water heater to off to solve the problem
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:11 PM   #10
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looks like you found another problem. i am not familiar with a one control panel but i think it is an electronic touch control panel. but why did it show the water heater off when in fact it was on?
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:39 PM   #11
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looks like you found another problem. i am not familiar with a one control panel but i think it is an electronic touch control panel. but why did it show the water heater off when in fact it was on?
Good Question
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Old 05-24-2019, 09:16 PM   #12
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Water Heater

I believe the following is correct. The Georgetown's use the Suburban Water Heater. Unlike the Atwood, the Suburban model's they use can only be turned on electrically at the unit itself (meaning outside in the compartment). The controls inside only activate the propane heater, not the electric. If the switch at the unit is on, the electric heater is always on when shore power is on or the generator is running. The monitor does not show that it is on since it is (for lack of a better term) hardwired to only be turned on by the switch at the water heater unit itself.

That's not a Forest River issue. That's the way Suburban water heater's work. Here's a link to a thread that covers that:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...de-135974.html
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:58 PM   #13
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I believe the following is correct. The Georgetown's use the Suburban Water Heater. Unlike the Atwood, the Suburban model's they use can only be turned on electrically at the unit itself (meaning outside in the compartment). The controls inside only activate the propane heater, not the electric. If the switch at the unit is on, the electric heater is always on when shore power is on or the generator is running. The monitor does not show that it is on since it is (for lack of a better term) hardwired to only be turned on by the switch at the water heater unit itself.

That's not a Forest River issue. That's the way Suburban water heater's work. Here's a link to a thread that covers that:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...de-135974.html
Thanks that is a relief to know
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:03 AM   #14
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i was thinking about this overnight. i am not familiar with this unit so i make no claims that wat i ave to say is correct or appropriate. but i had read about load shedding devices and control panels. if this panel as load shedding capabilites if might be set up based upon normal 30 amp shore power. you are hooked up to a 20 amp supply. the load shedding might not be shedding enough load based upon only having 20 amp available.
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TominVegas View Post
I believe the following is correct. The Georgetown's use the Suburban Water Heater. Unlike the Atwood, the Suburban model's they use can only be turned on electrically at the unit itself (meaning outside in the compartment). The controls inside only activate the propane heater, not the electric. If the switch at the unit is on, the electric heater is always on when shore power is on or the generator is running. The monitor does not show that it is on since it is (for lack of a better term) hardwired to only be turned on by the switch at the water heater unit itself.

That's not a Forest River issue. That's the way Suburban water heater's work. Here's a link to a thread that covers that:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...de-135974.html
Another confusing issue with the Suburban and the switch in the outside compartment....
I think most of us agree that to turn on a light switch, or a fan, or anything for the most part....you flip a switch upward to activate the circuit. The factory Suburban switch is exactly opposite. Down for ON....up for OFF.
Most people would just glance at the physical position of the switch but not READ the label.

They’re messing with your mind
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Old 05-25-2019, 12:44 PM   #16
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Another confusing issue with the Suburban and the switch in the outside compartment....
I think most of us agree that to turn on a light switch, or a fan, or anything for the most part....you flip a switch upward to activate the circuit. The factory Suburban switch is exactly opposite. Down for ON....up for OFF.
Most people would just glance at the physical position of the switch but not READ the label.

They’re messing with your mind
I really don’t mind having to flip the switches. I just appreciate coming here to find the answer. Thanks to all who contributed.
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:54 PM   #17
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Another confusing issue with the Suburban and the switch in the outside compartment....

I think most of us agree that to turn on a light switch, or a fan, or anything for the most part....you flip a switch upward to activate the circuit. The factory Suburban switch is exactly opposite. Down for ON....up for OFF.

Most people would just glance at the physical position of the switch but not READ the label.



They’re messing with your mind


Take it out and rotate it
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Old 05-26-2019, 07:54 AM   #18
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Take it out and rotate it
Yeah.....but then the writing will be upside down.
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:07 AM   #19
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Yeah.....but then the writing will be upside down.
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
Most people would just glance at the physical position of the switch but not READ the label.
So, would it really matter? Besides, a little brush of black paint to fill in the verbiage would suffice.
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:23 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by TominVegas View Post
I believe the following is correct. The Georgetown's use the Suburban Water Heater. Unlike the Atwood, the Suburban model's they use can only be turned on electrically at the unit itself (meaning outside in the compartment). The controls inside only activate the propane heater, not the electric. If the switch at the unit is on, the electric heater is always on when shore power is on or the generator is running. The monitor does not show that it is on since it is (for lack of a better term) hardwired to only be turned on by the switch at the water heater unit itself.[/url]
I'm not sure about that because from what I've read in some Suburban manuals that "always on" electric element would burn the electric heater element out if there was no water in it. This manual says there can be two electric switches, one inside and one on the unit itself. That makes more sense to me to avoid a fire hazard. https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...ban%20V1.3.pdf

From Page 4:

Electric Switches
Main 110V Power Switch
The main 110V switch is operated just like a light switch and most will illuminate when power flows through the switch. If the light switch normally does light up, but is not lighting up now, there may be a loose connection on the back of the switch, or the 110V circuit breaker may have tripped. Note that some newer models may use a rocker switch for electric operation.

Secondary 110V Power Switch
Again, it’s critically important that you check that the water heater is full of water before turning on the 110V heat. If there’s no water, the heating element will burn out very quickly and will have to be replaced. Of course, even if your trailer is in warranty, burning out the electric element is considered user error, which is not covered by the warranty against manufacturing defects.


The picture on Page 5 shows that upside down switch as the secondary electric switch.

If mine is actually wired with that being the only power switch, which I won't know for a month or so, I'm filing an NHTSA complaint. Just because a manufacturer can wire it that way does not mean they should, especially when the manufacturer provides a safer alternative.

Ray
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