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12-25-2015, 12:58 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Baja California
Posts: 31
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Side wall trim removal
My 378 has the dreaded sheared bolts syndrome. I need help with the trim removal, before it becomes junk. Can you tell me how to remove without destroying it? Thanks in advance, and Merry Christmas!
John
__________________
2018 Stealth Toy Hauler
2013 Rockwood Premire
2 Dogs
Mandy
Partner
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12-25-2015, 04:07 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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?
Side wall? What side wall?
Sheared bolt?
What are you talking about?
?
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12-25-2015, 05:01 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 507
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__________________
364 Georgetown 2016
in Montana
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12-25-2015, 05:28 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Screws instead of using the term bolts is why I asked.
The outer walls are loose and need to be reattached.
Hopefully he found that Slicky Note Thread.
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12-26-2015, 10:02 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Baja California
Posts: 31
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no info on trim removal
I read the sticky on sidewall screws breaking off. It says to remove the trim covering the screws, but does not say how to remove it. It is the aluminum strip below the drivers side window.
__________________
2018 Stealth Toy Hauler
2013 Rockwood Premire
2 Dogs
Mandy
Partner
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12-26-2015, 11:19 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
Screws instead of using the term bolts is why I asked.
The outer walls are loose and need to be reattached.
Hopefully he found that Slicky Note Thread.
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Fasteners might even be more Proper? Youroo!! Either way his Wall's are seperating from the Floor!
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12-26-2015, 03:18 PM
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#7
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Retired Ford Tech
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Full-Timer
Posts: 155
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Side Wall trim
I have a 2008 350s and did mine a year ago. The trim is removed by first pulling out the center molding, it just sits in the channel of the the trim piece. Then there are multiple screws for the trim. Remove them and the trim molding has a foam backing that has a sticky side against the side wall. Carefully peel the trim, don't bend it. A plastic putty knife might help. The screws that break are under the molding, once you remove it, you'll see them. When you try to unscrew them you will find that most of them are broke.
The method I used was not as involved as the posted one. I used 4 inch by 5/16 see tapping countersunk bolts. I drilled a pilot hole then put Lock-Tight on the bolts and tighten them down. I put around 10 bolts on each side and have gone 5,000 mile with no problem. I used a countersunk bit on the sidewall so the bolts sat flush.
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12-26-2015, 04:16 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Baja California
Posts: 31
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Screws
Where did you find the screws for replacement?
__________________
2018 Stealth Toy Hauler
2013 Rockwood Premire
2 Dogs
Mandy
Partner
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12-26-2015, 04:41 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: East Patchogue, Long Island, NY
Posts: 28
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Man oh man. Walls falling??? Seems like you have to be a construction engineer or have large bank account to enjoy all the benefits of RVing. After laying out 75k to 150k+ for a rig, you would think you would get your money's worth from these RV companies. A lot of eye candy to get you to buy. Then you have all your free time fixing the small, everyday plumbing, electrical, and mechanical crap that we go through.
This forum is great and a real eye opener!!
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12-26-2015, 07:01 PM
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#10
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Retired Ford Tech
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Full-Timer
Posts: 155
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Side wall
I live in Casa Grande AZ in the winter and there's a place called Fred's Bolts and Nuts, I'll try and get you the part number and his phone. Stay tune I'll find out on Monday.
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12-26-2015, 09:43 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Baja California
Posts: 31
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Small world, I'm in Eloy. Is Fred's on Pinal?
__________________
2018 Stealth Toy Hauler
2013 Rockwood Premire
2 Dogs
Mandy
Partner
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12-26-2015, 10:58 PM
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#12
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Retired Ford Tech
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Full-Timer
Posts: 155
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Side Wall
Yes, Fred's is on Pinal and McMurray. I told him what I wanted to do and he showed me these bolts that guys use to fix horse trailers.
We are at Palm Creek, I have a few left and you could take one with you and show him. Very friendly guy!
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12-27-2015, 12:56 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Northeast Alabama
Posts: 227
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In response to hugospro, he is right. A lot of stuff continually needs repaired on an RV.
If a person is not mechanically inclined, they will be spending a lot of time and money on small repairs. An RV is a house that is vibrating and shaking as it goes down the road. Shake a house for a while and it would have some problems. Most of the components in an RV are not manufactured by the RV company, they are purchased from outside suppliers. Sometimes if there is a problem with things like glue, screws, laminate, seals, upholstery, etc. the manufacturer has no way to know it until the units have been in service for a while. Also, if you ever watch these things being built with 20 people or more installing components at the same time it is amazing that more does not go wrong. Final inspection often has over 100 items that must be repaired before the RV is sent to the dealers.
If it is any comfort, I subscribe to Tiffin and Thor groups as well as Forest River, and RV's of all makes are the same. A friend of mine spent 400k on a high class RV and in the past 4 years has spent over 20k on repairs, and had a catastrophic engine compartment fire caused by a loose exhaust fitting that was covered under warranty after only 4k miles. So more money does not equal fewer repairs. My 2012 Georgetown 337XL with 32k miles on it has never been in a shop, but I have had to tighten, adjust and do minor repairs to may components over the past few years. The Winnebago, Rockwood, and Four Winds motor homes I owned previously were the same. So if you buy an RV you had better have a good set of tools of a lot of money for labor cost
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12-27-2015, 05:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim G
In response to hugospro, he is right. A lot of stuff continually needs repaired on an RV.
If a person is not mechanically inclined, they will be spending a lot of time and money on small repairs. An RV is a house that is vibrating and shaking as it goes down the road. Shake a house for a while and it would have some problems. Most of the components in an RV are not manufactured by the RV company, they are purchased from outside suppliers. Sometimes if there is a problem with things like glue, screws, laminate, seals, upholstery, etc. the manufacturer has no way to know it until the units have been in service for a while. Also, if you ever watch these things being built with 20 people or more installing components at the same time it is amazing that more does not go wrong. Final inspection often has over 100 items that must be repaired before the RV is sent to the dealers.
If it is any comfort, I subscribe to Tiffin and Thor groups as well as Forest River, and RV's of all makes are the same. A friend of mine spent 400k on a high class RV and in the past 4 years has spent over 20k on repairs, and had a catastrophic engine compartment fire caused by a loose exhaust fitting that was covered under warranty after only 4k miles. So more money does not equal fewer repairs. My 2012 Georgetown 337XL with 32k miles on it has never been in a shop, but I have had to tighten, adjust and do minor repairs to may components over the past few years. The Winnebago, Rockwood, and Four Winds motor homes I owned previously were the same. So if you buy an RV you had better have a good set of tools of a lot of money for labor cost
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So very true.. If you are like our neighbors who says there is a guy for that, if you can afford that guy then you are better off than most.. I have come to the conclusion that if you cant do some wood working and light mechanical repairs than you better not buy a motorhome.. They need messaging all the time..
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364 Georgetown 2016
in Montana
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