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Old 05-26-2014, 08:30 AM   #1
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Slamming the front door

Hey all...wondered if slamming the front door to get it closed is typical for the 2014 GT328? I've seen a few other folks close the door on their MH with a gentle tug and a soft click. I worry about something breaking when it gets closed so hard.

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Old 05-26-2014, 08:36 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swiseman View Post
Hey all...wondered if slamming the front door to get it closed is typical for the 2014 GT328? I've seen a few other folks close the door on their MH with a gentle tug and a soft click. I worry about something breaking when it gets closed so hard.

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We had a GT before our Crosscountry, same issue with the door. Check the set screws on the inside of the door itself, could be loose. What we actually ended up doing was adjust the latch. Then all was good
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:58 AM   #3
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Ours is the same way. The door actually opened up on us while on the highway. Come to find out the bolts that hold the latch assembly came loose. I tightened them back up and the inside handle would bind internally (probably left loose intentionally at the factory so that the handle would not bind). I closed the door with the dead bolt to get us home safely. I had to do some filing to be able to get everything working properly and then used Loctite on the bolts. I realigned everything including the screen door in order for a smoother operation, but it still needs to be slammed while trying to close it from the inside. From the outside you can hold the handle open and then close it softly. Part of the problem is the door's shock. It's a piece of junk. It opens the door way to fast and it provides too much force while trying to close it.

I haven't researched it, but there has to be a better shock that would work better.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:08 AM   #4
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Speaking of door shocks. I just did a quick look in CW and they have them in several strengths. The weakest I could find was 20 lbs. Not sure what FR is using, but it's worth taking a look.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #5
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Simply repositioning the gas strut will also work wonders. On our 5er I moved both anchor points 2-1/2" closer to the hinge and it allowed the door to swing over 90 and helps close the door when within about 8".
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:27 AM   #6
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That's true OldCoot. There isn't much room in ours due to the awning and probably why they installed them the way they are. I wish the shock had a dead spot like you say where it will stop pushing when the door is an X amount of inches from closing. I need to play with it some to see what works best.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:47 AM   #7
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I just removed the shock and it is the 20 lbs. model. I believe that's the weakest available.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:47 AM   #8
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Our door gets difficult to close occasionally, and a shot of WD-40 on the strike plate and latch is needed to get the door closing good again.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:22 AM   #9
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A properly adjusted door requires NO slamming! Now the doors that have a (Shock) installed require some steady,firm pressure to close. Yes some of the shocks are not installed correctly with regards to Geometry,as well resistance in and out! I feal F/R errors on the side of caution,in regards to Wind catching the door? On the matter of the O/Post I learned at a Very young age (NOT) to Slam any Door,especially if I was Mad! I discovered my Dad got a LOT Madder,and when he was Done with Me he would show me how Well the Door would close by (Slowly) closing it! Youroo!!
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:54 AM   #10
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The shock on mine is either the wrong one or installed incorrectly. When opening the door, it pulls against the door frame. If you leave the door open, it won't stay in place if there is even a whisper of wind. No way to latch it. Result was that my door was pulled apart and the dealer is replacing under warranty!
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