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Old 02-12-2018, 05:52 PM   #21
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stabilizer

I had a rear stabilizer in front of the differential but after looking at the watts links that some other RV owners installed I decided to build one and put it behind the differential to help with tail wag. I can definitely tell the difference, the ball cranks one the front helped with steering and the deterring on my coach is the adjustable kind so I was able to take the play out of the steering. I personally don't think there is one magic trick, but after going through steering, front end, and rear end it seems to be a lot more stable than before,
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:45 PM   #22
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I had a rear stabilizer in front of the differential but after looking at the watts links that some other RV owners installed I decided to build one and put it behind the differential to help with tail wag. I can definitely tell the difference, the ball cranks one the front helped with steering and the deterring on my coach is the adjustable kind so I was able to take the play out of the steering. I personally don't think there is one magic trick, but after going through steering, front end, and rear end it seems to be a lot more stable than before,


Myself. I did it all at once as opposed to going 1 fix at a time. I could not be happier with the results
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:35 PM   #23
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Safe-t-plus

Had mine installed at the factory in Austell Ga. A couple of dollars over 600. The installer tech took us out on the Eway and made a couple of stops for final adjustment. I was very impressed with his knowledge and expertise at making the MH go straight after final tweak. This final adjustment is the most important step in installation. Where better to have this done but at the factory....also it was on our route sough. Very satisfied with improvement in steering stability and more relaxed effort in handling....Bob
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:05 PM   #24
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I think I am going to install the safe t plus myself and perform the CHF up front. I would do the rear sway bar but it appears that requires drilling. Anyone with any insight on the rear?

Camping world quoted me about 3000 for the steering stabilizer and both aftermarket roadmaster sway bars installed.
I did the CHF on both front and back on my GT 360 DS. No drilling needed. Made such a deference I put off getting a steering stabilizer. And after doing the CHF, I don't thing it would be to difficult for one or two people to change the swat bars if you're set on doing that instead of the CHF.

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Old 02-12-2018, 09:07 PM   #25
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Curious, is there an opinion on which is better? Roadmaster or the Safe T Plus. The roadmaster RSSA is about 250 cheaper.
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:01 PM   #26
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Stabilizer

I have a Georgetown 335 and ordered brackets for f53 chassis then got a stabilizer Made by Monroe it was easy to install and helps steering a lot cost a quarter of the price.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:16 AM   #27
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Curious, is there an opinion on which is better? Roadmaster or the Safe T Plus. The roadmaster RSSA is about 250 cheaper.


I took my lead from a previous post tailwind22 who set his unit up. He had done considerable research on all of the handling fixes
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:05 PM   #28
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Stabilizer

We bought our Georgetown 30 ft motor home last September. New to RVing so began research about stabilizers. We just attended SE Rally in Lakeland, FL (FMCA) and the Safe T Plus vendor was there with all the details you could want and see for yourself. Not only did we buy the model recommended for our motor home, but they had their own Safe T Plus installers to do the installation that day! The installer also had us with him on the test drive and made any necessary adjustments to complete the work! They were quite busy at the rally! We are very satisfied with the results and look forward to our 6 month cross country trek which will include a two month Alaska caravan!
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:10 PM   #29
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Just finshed the CHF on the front of the RV. Started on the back and decided against it. First issue was the sway bar needed to be moved down to line up with the second hole. I used a bottle jack on the front bar to raise the bar in order for the holes to line up. Not sure how to make the bar lower to line up on the rear. The main reason I stopped was because the arm hanging down had a lot of resistance on it when I moved it down to line up. I wasnt sure about that so I just put it back the way it was. Any opinions on the tension? Is that normal? Also, any suggestions on putting pressure on the sway bar to move it down slightly to line up in the other hole?

Doing the front took only a few minutes.
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:11 AM   #30
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No body uses the search feature, so here is my previous post on this subject.

I did extensive reporting on the upgrades I performed on my GT 270. Regarding suspension upgrades, in addition to the sumo springs, I also installed a second rear stabilizer and a Safe-T-Plus Steering Stabilizer. The later is even more significant than the Sumo springs! These items should be standard installed items on all RVs by ALL manufacturers!

Important note: the install of the Safe-T-Plus Steering Stabilizer is a simple bolt on, but the adjustment is the secret. It took many tries before I realized how to apply steering load as my assistant tightened the bolts. If you find that if you have a pull after doing it, apply the load in the opposite direction and be gentle with the amount - The adjustment is very simple once the ART is learned!

Should anyone desire to see many of my upgrades, you can see them at RV and Travel Trailer Services They are on the bottom of the web page. The top half discusses my view of the unprofessionalism I discovered throughout the RV industry over the past year and a half since my first purchase. It is a well guarded secret to newcomers. Ignore it, if it bothers you, no need to comment just my view on bullies.
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:18 PM   #31
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No body uses the search feature, so here is my previous post on this subject.

I did extensive reporting on the upgrades I performed on my GT 270. Regarding suspension upgrades, in addition to the sumo springs, I also installed a second rear stabilizer and a Safe-T-Plus Steering Stabilizer. The later is even more significant than the Sumo springs! These items should be standard installed items on all RVs by ALL manufacturers!

Important note: the install of the Safe-T-Plus Steering Stabilizer is a simple bolt on, but the adjustment is the secret. It took many tries before I realized how to apply steering load as my assistant tightened the bolts. If you find that if you have a pull after doing it, apply the load in the opposite direction and be gentle with the amount - The adjustment is very simple once the ART is learned!

Should anyone desire to see many of my upgrades, you can see them at RV and Travel Trailer Services They are on the bottom of the web page. The top half discusses my view of the unprofessionalism I discovered throughout the RV industry over the past year and a half since my first purchase. It is a well guarded secret to newcomers. Ignore it, if it bothers you, no need to comment just my view on bullies.


I wholeheartedly agree on the lack of professionalism in the industry both at the factory level and dealer. The standard answer is your putting a house on a truck and there will be issues
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:47 AM   #32
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I wholeheartedly agree on the lack of professionalism in the industry both at the factory level and dealer. The standard answer is your putting a house on a truck and there will be issues
The problem is not "putting a house on a truck" and accepting that "there will be issues". If you want to talk about "issues", I am in the marine business/environment, there are issues there that the RV community would never has to or ever be able to handle. Wind, salt & corrosion, lack of power water, sewer, .... on and on. They deal with it and properly! Unlike the RV community, as one goes up in size and $$$, you get more and even better solutions because proper solutions do cost $$$.

View the Tiffin, Newmar, or any of the similar threads, the topics and nature are same from an inexpensive entry level TT or RV all the way up to a upper 6 or 7 figure bus. This entire industry is owned and run by a collection of greedy, incompetent, unprofessional, bullies. Unless the customer base holds them accountable, it will continue. In my small world, I am! Currently, nothing short of litigation is successful in order to hold hem accountable for even the basic warranty fulfilment.

Do the following sound familiar?

"I drive a Tiffin (RED) 2017 and I'm having issues with steering . it seems to wander more than I would like, but I'm told, it is normal. Any feedback would be appreciated. I do not enjoy driving this coach."

"I'm have had gas motorhomes for about 12 seasons. Since getting our new 2017 Phaeton 40AH, I have a multitude of questions about some of the issues we have had. I know I should be talking to the techs and sales staff where it was purchased but I've caught them contradicting each other and heard inconsistencies in some of the things they have told me."

"We were breaking camp and the main slide won't retract. When I pushed the button to retract, it started, but then went dead. DH checked the spider control. Wires are good and everything else on the system is working... how to retract the slide manually? Also jacks are not working either."

"We pulled the slides in to leave the campground recently and some of the water ended up on the floor inside the coach. That can't be normal but is there anything I can do to keep that from happening?"
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Old 02-15-2018, 10:41 AM   #33
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To this point, my dealer gave me the lemon law guide for Arkansas probably because it was the law. Unless I read it wrong the lemon law in Arkansas does not cover vehicles over a certain weight which was less than my motorhome. What right does a consumer have. That tells me the RV lobby has deep pockets....
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