Suburban Ignition Control Board

[cjd10]

My water heater has quit working off propane. No ticking sound to try to ignite.
It does still work off electric.
RV parts only shows one part to select from. Does anyone know if the same board is pretty much universal for all models?
Also, anything I should be checking besides the switch inside? Is there a fuse somewhere I am missing?

[dfp]

I have an outside switch as well as the inside switch. Pull the outside door from the heater and have a look . My on off switch is on the left side.

[Scrapper]

What model WH do you have?

Here is the service manual for many of the Suburban WHs.

Many who have changed their boards go with a dinoboard. Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.

[Schvarak]

Originally Posted by cjd10

My water heater has quit working off propane. No ticking sound to try to ignite.
It does still work off electric.
RV parts only shows one part to select from. Does anyone know if the same board is pretty much universal for all models?
Also, anything I should be checking besides the switch inside? Is there a fuse somewhere I am missing?

Could you provide a pic of your water heater inside the outside panel? Typically, If you have both electric and propane, the inside switch is for propane and the switch outside is for electric!

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by dfp

I have an outside switch as well as the inside switch. Pull the outside door from the heater and have a look . My on off switch is on the left side.

OP said his electric element works. The outside switch is for the electric element, the indoor switch is for LP gas operation.
Granted, some have both switches inside on the control panel, but you still need the electric switch turned on outside.

[cjd10]

Yes I am aware of the switch on the water heater itself. That is how I am using it for the electric mode.
After researching it does appear that the control board is pretty much universal for most of the Suburban models but I haven’t had a chance to make sure I have power at the switch that controls the propane side.
I will check out the dinosaur brand as the OEM board seems to be a common problem.

[donniedu]

Have you tried resetting the hi temp limit switch? In the upper left quadrant there is a square black rubber cover. Near the top of this there is two areas marked push or something similar. Push them in and check. If that does not do it, then I would suspect the 12Volt high temp pack has burned out. Its a fairly common failure and one easily checked with a volt meter. I have also had wires chafe on the raw sheet metal edgea and short out.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by cjd10

Yes I am aware of the switch on the water heater itself. That is how I am using it for the electric mode.
After researching it does appear that the control board is pretty much universal for most of the Suburban models but I haven’t had a chance to make sure I have power at the switch that controls the propane side.
I will check out the dinosaur brand as the OEM board seems to be a common problem.

Good choice. Way better than the OEM board.

[sleepybadger]

Did you confirm the propane is on? After our last service call I couldn't get any hot water. Took about 20 minutes before I realized that they shut off the propane at the tank when the rv went in for service.

Sometimes its the simple things.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by donniedu

Have you tried resetting the hi temp limit switch? In the upper left quadrant there is a square black rubber cover. Near the top of this there is two areas marked push or something similar. Push them in and check.out.

I agree with the above. If you check the schematics in the service manual you will see the power comes from the switch on your wall through the hi-temp limit switch then to the control board. If that limit switch is tripped it opens the circuit.

[cjd10]

Originally Posted by donniedu

Have you tried resetting the hi temp limit switch? In the upper left quadrant there is a square black rubber cover. Near the top of this there is two areas marked push or something similar. Push them in and check. If that does not do it, then I would suspect the 12Volt high temp pack has burned out. Its a fairly common failure and one easily checked with a volt meter. I have also had wires chafe on the raw sheet metal edgea and short out.

I have made sure those are pushed in but have not put a meter to them yet.
Will update this weekend.