View Poll Results: Portable or Hardwired?
Portable - EMS-PT50C 22 47.83%
Hardwired - EMS-HW50C 24 52.17%
Voters: 46. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-11-2015, 09:25 PM   #51
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Location: Hampton Roads, VA
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Hardwired 50A Progressive. I dont have an auto-transfer switch. When using the genny I plug the 50A plug into the genny socket so now the Progressive also monitors genny power and load. A win-win.

John & Susan, Olivia the dachshund
2011 Georgetown 337DS
2003 Dodge Dakota
Hampton Roads VA
2016 174 Days camping, 2017 66 days 2018 13 days
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:54 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by 360true View Post
I agree on the portable unit which I have. I am planning to cut my cord and add plugs so I can have my portable unit locked inside the bay, and be connected online
That way if it does get damaged, I can still run unprotected from the pedestal until the unit is replaced or fixed.

Will that effect the warranty or did I misunderstand what cord you were cutting?

Revised, I decided not to modify my portable Unit.

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Old 09-02-2017, 09:27 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by brewjaz View Post
I'm struggling with the same--hard-wired or portable. I was first going with hard-wired for the reasons given above. BUT later changed my mind to go with the portable because someone on a forum (not sure if it was this one) said as soon as they plugged into the electric they could tell there was a problem--so they unplugged right away and called the CG maintenance. Could it have caused a problem if they plugged into the electric, went into the camper and turned lights and A/C on before checking? I honestly don't know--that's why I'm asking. I also saw there's a gizmo to lock up the portable so it doesn't get stolen.
We're did you find gizmo?
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:13 AM   #54
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The EMS from Progressive has a metal ring that I connect to the Pedastal with a bike lock. Have also seen (any rv place like camping world) that has a locking box that secures the EMS to your RV electric line. I have used a bike lock for the years (also leave my bay compartments unlocked) without incident.
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:15 AM   #55
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Follow... Not an issue if you have already plugged in the camper before being alerted to a problem as the unit will not let power through. But why take the chance?
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:57 AM   #56
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Zombie thread from 3 yrs ago...

But I'll chime in anyway.

I have a Georgetown XL 369DS motorhome, which is 50A service. What I decided to do for flexibility, was to buy a 30' 50A extension cord (6/3 + 8/1 gauges), a portable 50A surge protector (Technology Research Surge Guard #44270) and a Hughes 50A Auto-transformer.

What I do, is leave the coach cord in the electrical cargo bay, connect the Hughes Auto-Transformer to it, then the 50A Surge Guard, then the 30' extension cord.

When I setup at the RV site, I take the extension cord out and connect it to the power pedestal and feed it back to the cargo bay, through the bulkhead port and connect to the Surge Guard, which I have disconnected from the Hughes. I turn on power and look for the 5 green LEDs lit on the Surge Guard. If power is good, I turn the breaker back off at the pedestal and then plug in the Surge Guard to the Hughes, then flip the breaker on back at the pedestal. Then I re-verify I still have 5 green LEDs lit on the Surge Guard. Power is now being supplied to the coach.

I have my Hughes and Surge Guard in the electrical cargo bay, out of sight and only the extension cord running from the MH, to the power pedestal.

This setup protects my coach appliances from over-voltage and under-voltage. Both are very destructive to any electrical motor or electrical appliance. Under-voltage (aka brownout) is insidious. As voltage goes down, current draw goes up and heat goes way up and can cause failure and potentially a fire. Big RV parks get loaded down during high occupancy on weekends and supply voltage sags. The Hughes is programmed to boost up to 10% once voltage sags to a certain point. This can protect your air conditioners, your residential fridge compressor, your microwave and so forth.

Over-voltage is usually big spikes from lightning strikes that get onto AC power lines through induction or AC power supply problems from a sub-station. You need a good surge protector to clamp the big spikes.

Anyway, that's how I do it. Been doing it this way for 3 years now and have never had a problem. On one trip, we had a huge storm blow in with high winds and lightning everywhere, park power went down. I ran on the genset for 12 hours until power was restored. No damage. Others that had not protected their coach, had lots of problems with appliances. In my opinion, what I have spent (around $600.00) is cheap insurance and peace of mind.
2012 Georgetown 327DS--->2015 Georgetown XL 369DS
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Old 09-02-2017, 11:14 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by Rvlove View Post
We're did you find gizmo?
Carmen and the pack
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Old 09-02-2017, 11:48 AM   #58
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I would like to get a hardwired unit someday. In the meantime, using a portable is better than nothing. I have both a 50amp and 30amp to check the CG plug before I plug in the RV. Each also protects against a surge. So far, I have never found a faulty CG plug. Most of the CG's I stay in are state parks.

Art Mullis

Current Coach: 2015 GT Model 328ts
Previous Coach: 2006 Coachmen 25RKS TT
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