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04-13-2012, 09:04 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arlington, WI
Posts: 229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raycyn778
That is exactly what it is supposed to do. As soon as the ignition is turned on, the fridge door on certain Dometic models will automatically lock. You can still manually open them anytime, even while moving. After reading about it in the manual, I asked my dealer to repair it while taking care of other warranty issues, they said they called the warranty manager at FR and he commented that only the high end deisels were hooked up at factory, not gas jobs. After confirming that the warranty manager at FR refused my dealers request to repair the door lock I called the sales manager at FR and explained what was going on, he called the head of design and engineering and he confirmed that it was a new feature on the Georgetowns and is supposed to be hooked up at the factory. So mine goes in to the dealer on the 24th so we will see!!
Ray
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Boy did they give you the run arround. My 2011 had it hooked up at the factory and so did my buddy's that bought his a month after I did. Mine was built in April 2010. I bought it in August. As far as I know they should all be that way. I think its really a nice feature.
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Don & Carol Niemeyer and Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master Diesel Pusher
2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
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04-13-2012, 11:35 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Refer shuts off for 15min when engine is shut off.
While reading the 4 door refer model RM1350WIM manual it says:
When the engine is shut off the refer will shut off the gas supply for 15 minutes. After that 15 minutes it will start backup on gas.
It says it is designed to do this just in case you are refueling and to stop any ignition source. All I can say is wow... Smart.
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04-14-2012, 11:58 AM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: LaGrange,Ga
Posts: 315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raycyn778
Mike, hello, tried to do this mod in the driveway today on my 378 but after removing the nuts and washers, I could not get the bolts out freely and was afraid of what might happen if I went ahead and knocked them out an could not realign the holes. Under what circumstances did you make the change. Did you raise the chassis up with the levelers to take the weight off the sway bar??
Thanks
Ray
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Do appreciate sharing your research, so i got under my 2012, 378 .. the rear sway has no extra holes on the sway arm, so are you saying you reversed the bracket , an make the arm from the frame angle back alittle? my front sway does have an extra hole .. having said that it appears that the arms from the frame would not reach the holes if i tried to move them ... thanks
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04-14-2012, 04:54 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harleydriven
Do appreciate sharing your research, so i got under my 2012, 378 .. the rear sway has no extra holes on the sway arm, so are you saying you reversed the bracket , an make the arm from the frame angle back alittle? my front sway does have an extra hole .. having said that it appears that the arms from the frame would not reach the holes if i tried to move them ... thanks
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Take a look at the pictureS on pg 5 post # 43.
Our 2012 (2011 chassis) looks pretty much just like this 04 303.
ab
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2012 Georgetown 360
SHE wanted "a new motorhome"
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04-14-2012, 05:19 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harleydriven
Do appreciate sharing your research, so i got under my 2012, 378 .. the rear sway has no extra holes on the sway arm, so are you saying you reversed the bracket .. having said that it appears that the arms from the frame would not reach the holes if i tried to move them
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Yes, I reversed the bracket on the back.
It was easy for me to push the sway bar up to reach the links once I disconnected both sides.
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2008 Georgetown SE 350DS BunkHouse
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05-02-2012, 11:14 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 188
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Add my name to the "modified" list..! Before a 1700 mi. round trip to Ks last week, I decided to try the hole swap. Wow.!! Big difference. Remember to get the coach on a level site to do the job. The sway bar has no weight or tension on it if the coach body is level with the front and rear axles. This will help when putting the bolts back in.
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"IF IT AINT GOT A MOTOR, I AINT INTERESTED"
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05-04-2012, 09:27 PM
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#67
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Dayton
Posts: 16
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After driving through the wind storm a couple weeks ago on Rt 70 through Indiana, I can positively say it works. I was pulling a 33' trailer, being 65' total, the wind was blowing 90 degrees from my left. I was driving 60-65 mph, I couldn't believe how well it drove.
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Jim
Dayton, Ohio
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05-05-2012, 06:40 AM
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#68
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2012 Georgetown 378
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Darlington, SC
Posts: 121
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Add me to the list. finally got it done but it was not as easy as bolt out, bolt in. The right side leaf springs partially blocked putting the bolt into the upper hole of the sway bar and I needed a pry bar to pry the arm down to get the bolt in. got it done but it took some effort. i was on level concrete at the time so not sure why it was a little difficult..... Leaving for SC in a couple weeks so we will see how it feels
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Ray, Cynthia, Duncan and Bailey
2012 Georgetown 378
2006 HD Ultra
1992 Fat Boy
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05-05-2012, 12:21 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raycyn778
Add me to the list. finally got it done but it was not as easy as bolt out, bolt in. The right side leaf springs partially blocked putting the bolt into the upper hole of the sway bar and I needed a pry bar to pry the arm down to get the bolt in. got it done but it took some effort. i was on level concrete at the time so not sure why it was a little difficult..... Leaving for SC in a couple weeks so we will see how it feels
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So you did the rear sway bar mod.
Did you do anthing to the front sway bar?
Any pictures?
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05-05-2012, 02:24 PM
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#70
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2012 Georgetown 378
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Darlington, SC
Posts: 121
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No, that was for the front bar!! rears are for another day..... no pictures this time, but will take them for the rears. Going out of state for business on Monday so it will a job for another time!
__________________
Ray, Cynthia, Duncan and Bailey
2012 Georgetown 378
2006 HD Ultra
1992 Fat Boy
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05-05-2012, 02:39 PM
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#71
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2012 Georgetown 378
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Darlington, SC
Posts: 121
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I clearly see a second hole...just like my 2012
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Ray, Cynthia, Duncan and Bailey
2012 Georgetown 378
2006 HD Ultra
1992 Fat Boy
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05-05-2012, 09:50 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raycyn778
I clearly see a second hole...just like my 2012
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Where? Only kidding. I see said the blind man.
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05-12-2012, 06:07 PM
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#73
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 322
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I did my front first, took a test drive and was so impressed then I did the rear. A great improvement!
__________________
Ron Hanson
2009 Georgetown 350TS (bunks)
400W solar, 440AH 6V GC2
2009 Ford Edge AWD Ltd towed
2011 Honda Fit Sport towed
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05-13-2012, 09:10 AM
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#74
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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I did both front and back on my 2012. Front went very fast and easy. The rear removal was easy but one side on the install had to lift the sway bar a little bit but no binding. We will see what everyone is talking about.
I guess by doing this mod reduced the stroke of the shock which reduced some of the drastic leaning on turns and passing? Does that sound correct?
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05-13-2012, 01:19 PM
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#75
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
I did both front and back on my 2012. Front went very fast and easy. The rear removal was easy but one side on the install had to lift the sway bar a little bit but no binding. We will see what everyone is talking about.
I guess by doing this mod reduced the stroke of the shock which reduced some of the drastic leaning on turns and passing? Does that sound correct?
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The sway bar does not limit the shock stroke or travel.
A sway bar basically helps distribute the compression on one side to the opposite spring, the sway bar connects both suspension springs and forces the springs to work together, keeping the chassis more level to the ground.
By moving the connecting rods to the closer holes increases the force the sway bar applies to the other spring which reduces the roll.
Hope that makes sense.
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