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Old 10-15-2017, 12:11 PM   #1
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To Winterize or Not

Our 2016 is kept inside, insulated structure, power but no heat inside the structure. We winterized last year but I’m considering not to winterize this year. We have heated pads on the tanks. I feel if it is winterized there’s are times we have some nice weekends here in Oklahoma that we could jump out for a quick adventure, otherwise it has to sit there till spring. Any thoughts?
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:57 PM   #2
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Does it ever get below freezing for 24 hours or more in Tulsa? If it does, your water lines are susceptible to freezing up and cracking something. If you blow out your lines, you may be okay.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:17 PM   #3
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An insulated building will always be warmer than the outside temps. Even during an extended cold-snap, a plug-in heater (or 2) would do the job.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:39 PM   #4
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What is the voltage of the electricity in your shed? If it is 240 volts you might run electric baseboard heat along the wall if you park the RV next to it. Make a deflector so the heat goes under the RV. 240 volt heat will be cheaper than 120 volt heat. But then if you loose power because of a storm for any considerable time, you may have some problems. Depends on how reliable your power company is.

Just an idea to give some thought to.
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:36 PM   #5
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As a minimum, while winterizing, you should change the oil and filter in the engine and generator. As noted in the Ford F53 owner''s manual, this is necessary due to acid buildup in the oil which can increase wear on internal components.
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Old 10-16-2017, 03:08 PM   #6
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For the cost of a couple gallons of RV antifreeze, that can be flushed clean in a couple minutes, seems like good insurance against broken water lines.
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Old 10-16-2017, 08:16 PM   #7
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I agree. A couple of gallons of antifreeze installed in 15 or 20 minutes gives you peace of mind. The alternative could be a frozen water line that could end up in hours of work finding and then fixing a ruptured line somewhere (or an expensive repair at a service depot). Not worth the risk.
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Old 10-17-2017, 01:52 AM   #8
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240 volt heat will be cheaper than 120 volt heat.
LOL...why? A kilowatt is a kilowatt!
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:34 AM   #9
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Maybe a little off subject but,,, has anyone ever found the threads on a CC1 filter canister
light green to maybe a little yellow ??? I have been dealing with the CC1 filter for several years and never seen this before !!! I cleaned it yesterday with a anti bacterial cleaner and a old tooth brush !!! I have also used Super lube on the 0 ring and threads for years ?
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:22 AM   #10
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:51 AM   #11
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At the very least, blow it out and drain water heater and low point drains. Antifreeze is cheap insurance against damage. $8 worth will do most rigs.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:53 AM   #12
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I wouldn't be as concerned about the tanks as much as the water lines. Interested to know if there is a difference between using space heaters and using furnace. Are the ducts ran somewhat in conjunction to water lines to help them not freeze? Good Luck.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:55 AM   #13
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I wouldn't be as concerned about the tanks as much as the water lines. Interested to know if there is a difference between using space heaters and using furnace. Are the ducts ran somewhat in conjunction to water lines to help them not freeze? Good Luck.
Depends on the model... some are some are not.
Some have ducts from the furnace that heat the areas where the lines are, some do not. Too many variables between models to make a blanket statement.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:04 AM   #14
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I wouldn't be as concerned about the tanks as much as the water lines. Interested to know if there is a difference between using space heaters and using furnace. Are the ducts ran somewhat in conjunction to water lines to help them not freeze? Good Luck.
You will be changing propane tanks way too often if you live in a cold climate. Winterize and save worry and money.
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Old 10-17-2017, 04:36 PM   #15
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LOL...why? A kilowatt is a kilowatt!
Power companies usually charge less when using 240 volts over 120 volts.
A 240 volt base board heater will put out a lot more heat for the same kwh used at 120 volts. I used to live in an apartment with electric heat and on the bill the power company had the charges split and the amount charged for electric heat per kwh was less.

At 240 volts you can a 5000watt baseboard heater. the max you can get for 120 volt is 1500watt.
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Old 10-17-2017, 04:46 PM   #16
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Power companies usually charge less when using 240 volts over 120 volts.
A 240 volt base board heater will put out a lot more heat for the same kwh used at 120 volts. I used to live in an apartment with electric heat and on the bill the power company had the charges split and the amount charged for electric heat per kwh was less.

At 240 volts you can a 5000watt baseboard heater. the max you can get for 120 volt is 1500watt.
A kilowatt is the same amount of heat be it 120 or 240.

The meter measures the current draw on a 240 volt feed that most residential users have.
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Old 10-17-2017, 05:33 PM   #17
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babock, so your telling me that the bill from the electric company was bs. I don't have a copy of it because that was over 25 years ago, but I do remember the price charged per kwh was different. We had questioned the pc about it, that's why I remember it. Maybe there were 2 meters for each apartment, the house was divided into 3 separate apartments. Like I said, over 25 years ago.
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:25 PM   #18
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Yep. It was BS!

You may have had a separate meter for your unit that was 120. Especially if it was an apartment.

I have owned multiple businesses, rental homes...in different cities and different power providers. None charge different for 120/240.
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:46 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=Scrapper;1649848]Power companies usually charge less when using 240 volts over 120 volts.
A 240 volt base board heater will put out a lot more heat for the same kwh used at 120 volts. I used to live in an apartment with electric heat and on the bill the power company had the charges split and the amount charged for electric heat per kwh was less.

At 240 volts you can a 5000watt baseboard heater. the max you can get for 120 volt is 1500watt.[/QUOTE

120/240 is still single phase power, the way you get the 240 Volt is by combining the 2 120 leads which is standard household wiring for stove and dryer hookup. What you may have had is 3 phase power for your electric heat which is a totally different animal but very uncommon in a residential setting.
Why do we have 3 Phase Industrial Heaters?
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:58 PM   #20
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babcock and Cypressloser, actually your not telling me anything I don't already know. After 25+ years of working on 480vac and 600vdc motors I know the difference in the efficiencies of high voltage over lower voltage. It's all about the efficiency of 240v over 120volt. The kwh of 240v will outdo the same kwh of 120v. Lower voltage always requires higher amps to do the same amount of work. The same with kwh.
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