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Old 10-08-2014, 10:48 AM   #11
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Clean the screen on the water input line, easy to screw off. Make sure water is disconnected or the pump isn't on. Put a bowl and towel down before hand. Once a year change out the anode rod on your water heater tank and you should have no problems after. Had the same issues with mine, used this site for answers, changed my anode this spring, best water pressure still since bought the rig. $18 for the rod is worth it once a year.
Why would hot water be hooked to the toilet?
I ask because the water heater has been mentioned before.

The last time I had to clean ours I let it run for a few minutes AND YOU ARE RIGHT hot water goes to the toilet when using the fresh water tank????

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Old 10-08-2014, 11:13 AM   #12
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If you guys have the factory water filter in place it should catch ALL SEDIMENT!

If you removed said filter then I'm not sure why your upset that it's clogging?

Help me understand!


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Old 10-08-2014, 12:48 PM   #13
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Why would hot water be hooked to the toilet?

I ask because the water heater has been mentioned before.



The last time I had to clean ours I let it run for a few minutes AND YOU ARE RIGHT hot water goes to the toilet when using the fresh water tank????



ab&jb

Are you sure it isn't just from the cold line laying next to the hot line within the frame? That will happen at my faucets sometimes.


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Old 10-08-2014, 01:09 PM   #14
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If you guys have the factory water filter in place it should catch ALL SEDIMENT!

If you removed said filter then I'm not sure why your upset that it's clogging?

Help me understand!


Turbs
Evidently the water from the fresh water tank going to the toilet DOES not go thru the filter, it comes out of the hot water heater.
The hose/water get HOT at the toilet.

NO problems when on city water.

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Old 10-08-2014, 03:45 PM   #15
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In June I had to replace the Dometic toilet when the internal flush pedal mechanism broke. When I removed the water line, there was a considerable amount of small white particles caught in the water valve. The new toilet worked great for three weeks and then started having reduced flow. I disconnected the water line, and almost as many of the white particles came out again.

A similar situation occurred with the kitchen faucet, and to a lesser degree with the bathroom faucet. The original kitchen faucet had corroded and had low flow. The cold water line to the faucet was nearly clogged with the white particles when I disconnected it under the sink. The hot water line was clean. I installed a new Delta faucet in July, and again within a month it needed cleaning out. It was the same small white particles. Fortunately, the new faucet is easy to disassemble and clean.

The white particles appear to be mineral scale, which will pass through a regular water filter as it is in solution. If this is the case, it is dependent on the amount of dissolved minerals in the water. I suspect that the toilet valve screen collects the most particles, as it has the most water passing through it, followed by the kitchen and bathroom faucets. I used lime scale remover in the shower head and it helped improve flow.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:10 PM   #16
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Believe me, the particles are coming from the hot water tank. Replace the anode rod, flush your hot water tank and you're good to go. I believe it has something to do with the HWT back pressuring thru the intake line and the toilet feed is the closest to the tank. Look it up on this forum there is a more in depth explanation from those that no more than me, I'm no mechanic, but like I said, I followed advice from those that are (anode rod) and it worked for me.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:17 PM   #17
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This is where the anode ends up. This is the inlet screen of the toilet flush valve.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:33 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by sherman12 View Post
Believe me, the particles are coming from the hot water tank. Replace the anode rod, flush your hot water tank and you're good to go. I believe it has something to do with the HWT back pressuring thru the intake line and the toilet feed is the closest to the tank. Look it up on this forum there is a more in depth explanation from those that no more than me, I'm no mechanic, but like I said, I followed advice from those that are (anode rod) and it worked for me.
"I believe it has something to do with the HWT back pressuring thru the intake line and the toilet feed is the closest to the tank."

Sounds reasonable except we have a 360 (bath and a half). The full bath doesn't clog as often as the front because we can't get to it with the bed room slide closed, BUT IT DOES CLOG! It's also the furthest outlet from the water heater

All the aerators have clogged which makes me wonder how much of this stuff we're drinking ?

We'll be heading home tomorrow and running lots of cold water, I'm thinking a visit to our dealer will be next.

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Old 10-09-2014, 12:01 PM   #19
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Sorta funny, when I was de-winterizing my rig this past spring I ran the water from the water tank with bleach through each faucet head. Shut off the water, hooked a hose to the city water inlet to flush out the lines. What?, nothing coming out of the bathroom or kitchen faucet! Now what! Re-check everything and give up for a few hours to clear my head. Calm now, go back and un-screw each aerator and both were totally clogged. Clean and blew out with a compressed air (the aerators) screw back on and great pressure.
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Old 10-11-2014, 04:16 PM   #20
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I have seen the mineral deposit collect in residential hot water heaters - especially electric ones. The deposits build up so much in the base of the tank that the electric heating element shorts out. Pulling to replace the heating element, you need to rake out the collected deposits, replace and you're good to go for a while longer.

This issue sounds and the pictures look very similar to the residential water heater problem. I would say the replacement and cleaning (flushing) the tank should perform the same sort of maintenance.

Kinda new to Class A stuff but old hand with fix it up stuff.
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