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Old 10-12-2014, 12:00 AM   #21
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Follow the suggestion to flush the hot water tank and replace the anode rod every and those troubles will be over.

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Old 10-12-2014, 08:15 AM   #22
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Where is the drain for the hot water heater? I have a 2011 378?

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Old 10-12-2014, 08:34 AM   #23
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The anode rod will drain the water heater.
Open the pressure valve for a quick drain, be sure to stand to one side.
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Old 10-12-2014, 08:55 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by abjb View Post
"I believe it has something to do with the HWT back pressuring thru the intake line and the toilet feed is the closest to the tank."

Sounds reasonable except we have a 360 (bath and a half). The full bath doesn't clog as often as the front because we can't get to it with the bed room slide closed, BUT IT DOES CLOG! It's also the furthest outlet from the water heater

All the aerators have clogged which makes me wonder how much of this stuff we're drinking ?

We'll be heading home tomorrow and running lots of cold water, I'm thinking a visit to our dealer will be next.

We're back from our 3 day trip home.
We used a lot of water from the fresh water tank.
This trip we DID NOT have toilet problems. There was never any HOT water going to the toilet, I let it run a lot and checked several times.

Which brings us back to the question.
WHY IS THERE hot water going to the toilet?
Apparently we only get hot at times, some trips the toilets start clogging within hours and some trips we have no problems
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Old 10-12-2014, 09:19 AM   #25
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If your units are getting (HOT) water to the toilet it is NOT plumbed correctly! There should be a (Backflow/check valve) located on the (Cold) water inlet to the W/H. Not all units have this valve (BUT) not All units back feed to the Toilet either! Youroo!!
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:00 PM   #26
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My plumbing was clogged up too. We cleared the kitchen and bathroom faucet but toilet inop. Fluhed it manually. Dealer flushed water heater and put new anode in. Next trip plugged up again.

Make sure the bypass valve is closed or the water heater will contaminate the fresh water side. Dealer flushed everything again so I am going to get another water filter for the hose. I know it doesn't make sense because of the on board filter but I'm going to try it.

My dealer said they are having problems with all brands. I think the tank manufacturers have pressure tested the tanks and don't flush them after. There are so many minerals in the water it eventually makes that white colored "gravel" and the toilet valve gets plugged up.
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Old 10-16-2014, 05:32 AM   #27
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Fairly certain that the "gravel" is calcification caused by the heating element "scaling". I understand the problem in most places where hot water is normally delivered. BUT, is hot water pumped to the commode intentionally? If not something in the plumbing is causing the flow. Should be a fairly straightforward answer if we have a plumbing diagram of how water is designed to flow.
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Old 10-16-2014, 07:36 AM   #28
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Water shut off for Resid fridg


The shut off for the resident fridg is in the bathroom cabinet in front of toilet. Open doors there is a inspection hole un srew it and you will see a small plastic line attached to a valve. Push valve down to shut it off, disconnect line and blow it back to the fridg while holding down the water thing on the fridg, this will blow all water out off line to winterize. Leave valve off when winterizing or antifreeze will pour out of there, ( I made that mistake) Hope that helps.
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:11 PM   #29
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I haven't looked at my kitchen or bathroom plumbing for a while but one handle faucets end up mixing both warm and hot water. I'm thinking that the by pass valve is closed the plumbing gets contaminated when faucet mixes the cold and hot water. Or there is a sediment problem in the fresh water tank.

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