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Old 06-12-2015, 12:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by gunn1976 View Post
I did not know that the water for the toilet went thru the hot water heater!
Seen that to.
Pretty hard for anode rod particles in the water heater to get into the cold supply system.

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Old 06-12-2015, 12:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunn1976 View Post
I did not know that the water for the toilet went thru the hot water heater!
It doesn't.
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:44 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the suggestions. When I stated I use a total of 3 filters, that's when I fill the FW tank. I only use 2 at a CG. Water pressure is always great at the kitchen sink and bathroom sink; it's just that the toilet has none. Since it's at the RV shop now, I can't work on it, however, I will try all the suggestions if this happens again.
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Old 06-12-2015, 04:05 PM   #14
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I had the same frustrating problem. Turned out to be my anode rod in the hot water heater. Removed it and flushed the HW heater and installed a new rod. Still had a problem and it turned out to be some remaining sediment in the toilet line. Cleaned it and so far one week later all is fine. I went through this frustration for over two years. My lesson learned was replace the rod every year.


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I'm confused...you have hot water from the water heater flushing your toilet? Why?
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Old 06-13-2015, 07:17 AM   #15
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Actually, I had the same problem with the water flow, you have to do a little bit of extra work.

First, you do need to unscrew the water connection to the toilet. In addition, there is a small valve there that you will need to actually remove (I think it is a single screw that holds it). Once you get that out, you will probably find there is some leftover calcium in there that is blocking things. I also ran a piece of large fishing leader -- think .090 gauge like for a weed eater, in through the outlet side in the toilet until it came out where the valve is.

Since you have already cleared your lines, once you do this, you "may" be good.

You will want to check your pressure/flow with the hose removed just to make sure it is flowing, then put everything back together.

I know you said it is at the shop, but this is what I had to do -- 2x's.

What I believe happens, and filters aren't going to help here, is the calcium in the water solidifies when the water sits in the lines for a period of time. This seems to be especially true if the RV sits long enough to where there is some evaporation that can occur within the lines. This is what I had coming out of my valve and hose when I unclogged it -- and yes, I do have filters as well.

As a side note, unscrew the bathroom faucet screen piece, this accumulates the calcium as well and will restrict flow there too.

Good Luck
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:38 PM   #16
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Toiilet valve

I had the same problem with my 2007 Georgetown. I found that there was a lot of saw dust in the valve. After cleaning it several times I purchased a new valve. Each time it started to run slow I would change the valve and clean the one I took off. It is only two screws that hold on the valve and is an easy change. Finally after about a year of use I had no more problems and now I have a spare valve. I do not know why I never had any problems with saw dust in any other part of my water system or filters.
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:14 PM   #17
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Hi MSB68, we had the same problem in our 2013 Forester. The normal anode rod sludge is the problem, but it goes further. Seems there must be a small air pocket at the top of the hot water heater. The hot (red pex) line is out near the top, and the cold (blue pex) line goes in at the bottom. The anode sludge lays at the bottom. When the toilet flushes that air pocket pressure pushes a little hot water and sludge back out of the heater tank into the cold water line, and the high flow rate of the toilet pulls the sludge in to clog at its inlet filter screen. I solved mine by cutting the blue pex water heater inlet line and installing a half-inch "SharkBite" one-way in-line valve (from the orange big box store) so the water heater can not back flow. But now the pump hammers a little at our cold water faucets because they don't have the air pocket pressure cushion to smooth out their flow.
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:18 AM   #18
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I've found its just easier changing the anode rod once a season then fooling around with the plumbing.
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