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Old 11-28-2013, 10:14 PM   #21
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I have found that stepping on the gas at the bottom of a steep uphill grade will keep the cruise from getting behind the power curve and, in some cases, will avoid the downshift. If the grade looks too steep, I will force the downshift with some heavy gas pedal to avoid the double down.

I played with the tow/haul mode in some steep downhill grades and found it extremely useful in avoiding the constant braking. If I read the manual correctly, it may also help avoid the downshift in steep uphill grades with the cruise.

We leave for Florida from Michigan in three weeks. If anyone has used the tow/haul mode through the mountains, I would appreciate hearing about your experience and any tips

After driving our new 2013 351ds for 500 miles, I had a full alignment and performed the CHF mod. The alignment report was surprising. The rear axle was not square and most of the front end was out of Ford spec. Now it drives outstanding and the sway bar mode really improved the handling. No more white knuckles.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:14 AM   #22
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I simply turn off the cruise going through hilly terrain, and let the engine handle what it will without revving. It's not that important to me to maintain speed on an incline. I've found the tow/haul feature to work very nicely for maintaining speed on declines. Ifrpilot - you'll use it coming down off Monteagle mountain between Nashville and Chattanooga. As soon as you see the signs warning of steep grades ahead, tap the tow/haul button and you'll be set. If you feel it's still not breaking enough to suit you, simply tap on the brake and it'll downshift for you.

We too had the full alignment done, and they confirmed that it was indeed out of alignment a good bit. Also did the CHF mod but I have to say, the change in handling after the CHF was negligible. HOWEVER, I didn't think it drove bad before the fix, so maybe I'm just lucky.
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:28 PM   #23
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We just got to our mid point camping spot....super crappy spot since the front wheels had to be about 6 inches off the ground to level it.

Anyway, it was a pleasure driving it today. I'd say about 95% wind free all the way from Orlando FL to Allatoona GA. It was so smooth that I found out that the coach will not go faster than 75 mph. I totally spaced out going with traffic when I noticed that I lost power. I looked down and was doing 75.

LMAO, I though our camping spot here at Allatoona Landing Marine Resort was bad since the pad in our site is shot, when I heard the train screaming....twice in the past half hour.

In order to level the coach the front wheels would have to be about 6" off the ground. Didn't get a warm fuzzy so I lowered it until the touch the ground.

Haven't really heard much about this topic. Is it okay to have the wheels off the ground? It seems kinda wobbly to me, but it may be perfectly okay since the levelers will support the weight.
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:38 PM   #24
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I'm told that you should never ever raise the backend off the ground, and preferably not the front either. Although I've seen quite a few coaches at campgrounds with the front ends about 6-8 inches off ground.

You are lucky on the weather as it won't be as cold coming home from florida for you as it was us a week ago.
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:58 PM   #25
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I can understand not raising the rear wheels off the ground due to the parking brake, but not sure about the front. I'd like to hear from the "I've been doing that for 10 years without a problem", guy. This is our first automatic leveling RV and have no idea what those hydraulic levelers are designed for. Do they need to work in tandem with the suspension or are they fully capable of holding then entire weight of the coach? Our last RV was a travel trailer with electric stabilizing jacks. They were designed to stop the sway and not leveling. Since the "leveling jacks" on our new coach are "leveling jacks", does that mean that they can actually "level" the coach regardless of any condition?
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:47 PM   #26
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It is very common to have a front wheel and in some cases both off of the ground when using the auto level system. There are some conservative types (like myself) that will level the rig with boards under the tires first to get a reasonably good leveling and then engage the auto level on sites that are not very level. The reasoning I use is based on not having the frame twisted or stressed any more than it needs to be. The hydraulics will support the front axles or one rear wheel but it is not a good idea for both rears to be off.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:53 PM   #27
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Good questions, alparmmer. While I wouldn't be in the "been doing this for 10 years without a problem category", I have read and researched a ton about using auto levelers and read many posts from those who have been at it much longer than me. A few things I've gleaned, in no particular order:

Many folks choose not to use the auto feature, feeling that it often lifts the coach too high to achieve level, and opt to level manually instead

Many use blocks under the low wheels so the jacks don't have to bear all the weight. Doubt I'll do that much myself, as one my goals with auto levelers was to get away from using blocks!

Many are emphatic about not raising the back wheels off the ground

Raising the front wheels off the ground doesn't seem to concern most

Also, unrelated to the leveling, it's ironic that you all stopped near Cartersville, GA on your way home - that's exactly where we stopped for the night on our return from Florida too.
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:53 AM   #28
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Keep in mind that if you raise your back tires off of the ground, yo lose the protection of the parking brake and the transmission park.

If the unit rolls, bent jacks and big problems!

Bill
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:32 PM   #29
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Keep in mind that if you raise your back tires off of the ground, yo lose the protection of the parking brake and the transmission park.

If the unit rolls, bent jacks and big problems!

Bill
Indeed, hence the widespread cautions about doing so. I've yet to hear a story about this actually happening, however I think I'll not temp fate!
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:49 PM   #30
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We just made it back home and it was a near perfect trip...an 18 wheeler idiot ran us off the road. I can't figure it out, but he had to be intoxicated or way too tired. Three lane highway, 65 mph, we were in the far right, he came through the middle lane and pushed us right off. Thank God it was a big shoulder and managed to move out of the way. I honked the entire time and he didn't even flinch. I have to admit that the horn in our coaches suck. I'm going to have to install an air horn or something as loud as the 18 wheeler boys.

We love our coach, but there are some things we need to modify.

-Need some sort of lumbar support
-Dim the radio for night time driving
-Dim the lights on the switches
-Louder horn
-Bypass the electric front shade so it drops down a little bit more
-Get longer front sway bar links (anyone know where to get them?)
-Don't like how the black tank valve hits the panel and it's hard to push it back in
-Figure out what's causing a tick tick tick...not sure if coming from the engine or the front left side of the coach
-Figure out how to make a better latch for the two front side sliding windows...that stupid little butterfly locking thing is pretty bad.
-Not happy with the rearview camera...it just looks down and it has zero wide angle...I like the one in my truck where you can see the bumper and also what's behind you.
-Need a brighter outside light for the awning area...the yellow light is worthless
-Figure out how to make the dash/center console more solid...you can actually grab the lower left end of the center console and move it back and forth like a cheap plastic toy...also the top of the center console is very saggy...I installed a GPS there and the thing shakes like crazy

I'm sure there are a few more. I'll post as I go.
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:51 AM   #31
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I can help with the electric front shade. There is a button on a length of wires hidden under the front, left windshield track that you use for the programming of the shade. Instructions to do so will be found in the MCD shade paperwork supplied with the coach. It's not difficult at all.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:07 AM   #32
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The ticking noise is the front caps that cover the lug nuts. We have been trying to find a fix for years. We called alcoa they said they did not manufacturer the canter cap it is a ford product, and to resolve the problem you need to buy new chrome lugnuts and a small center cap.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:17 AM   #33
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I can help with the electric front shade. There is a button on a length of wires hidden under the front, left windshield track that you use for the programming of the shade. Instructions to do so will be found in the MCD shade paperwork supplied with the coach. It's not difficult at all.
They showed us the button during the walkthrough. It resets the shade in case someone pulls it down. I'll have to look for the manual to program it. Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:25 AM   #34
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The ticking noise is the front caps that cover the lug nuts. We have been trying to find a fix for years. We called alcoa they said they did not manufacturer the canter cap it is a ford product, and to resolve the problem you need to buy new chrome lugnuts and a small center cap.
So that's where it's coming from. It drove me nuts. I'll have to take a look to see if there is a fix.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:36 AM   #35
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Not 100% where it is causing them to do it but I tried all the suggestions to fix it. Like putting silicon on them,tried rubber washers,and liquid electrical tape. All short fixes. So I took them off for now so I do not have to listen to them.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:27 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alparmmer View Post
We just made it back home and it was a near perfect trip...an 18 wheeler idiot ran us off the road. I can't figure it out, but he had to be intoxicated or way too tired. Three lane highway, 65 mph, we were in the far right, he came through the middle lane and pushed us right off. Thank God it was a big shoulder and managed to move out of the way. I honked the entire time and he didn't even flinch. I have to admit that the horn in our coaches suck. I'm going to have to install an air horn or something as loud as the 18 wheeler boys.

We love our coach, but there are some things we need to modify.

-Need some sort of lumbar support
-Dim the radio for night time driving
-Dim the lights on the switches
-Louder horn
-Bypass the electric front shade so it drops down a little bit more
-Get longer front sway bar links (anyone know where to get them?)
-Don't like how the black tank valve hits the panel and it's hard to push it back in
-Figure out what's causing a tick tick tick...not sure if coming from the engine or the front left side of the coach
-Figure out how to make a better latch for the two front side sliding windows...that stupid little butterfly locking thing is pretty bad.
-Not happy with the rearview camera...it just looks down and it has zero wide angle...I like the one in my truck where you can see the bumper and also what's behind you.
-Need a brighter outside light for the awning area...the yellow light is worthless
-Figure out how to make the dash/center console more solid...you can actually grab the lower left end of the center console and move it back and forth like a cheap plastic toy...also the top of the center console is very saggy...I installed a GPS there and the thing shakes like crazy

I'm sure there are a few more. I'll post as I go.
Hey Al (can I call you Al?)...since we have the exact same coach I'll share my impressions as well -
Lumbar support - we use small Relax-The-Back pillows and they work well
Louder horn - that's kinda funny, but I think the only time I've used the horn was to tap on it to say goodbye when leaving the neighborhood on a trip
Dim the radio lights - I haven't poked around on this yet, but I'm thinking there may be a setting on the radio menu itself for that. If I find it I'll let you know
Electric front shade - I guess I'm tall enough that if the sun is right on the horizon, the shade *just* drops low enough. I sometimes raise the driver seat to compensate if necessary
The Tick-tick-tick - hmmmm, haven't experienced that one yet. Knock on wood.
Front sliding window latch - these are the same that I've seen on many other coaches. Nothing special but they seem to work ok for us.
Brighter light for patio - we actually love the amber light because it does not attract bugs. It's an easy fix to replace the amber lense with a clear one - you'll get more light, and you'll get WAY more bugs, right at the door. If you need more light, I would suggest installing an LED strip under the awning or using a lantern away from your door.
Center console loose and saggy - Hmmm, ours isn't saggy in the least, nor is it bouncy. I leave my cell phone laying in the center and it doesn't move at all. You might be able to reinforce from underneath, between the carpet and the bottom of the molding to help dampen any vibration.

We have a punch list of things to address as well and I'll get around to posting sometime soon.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:36 PM   #37
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Hey Al (can I call you Al?)...since we have the exact same coach I'll share my impressions as well -
Lumbar support - we use small Relax-The-Back pillows and they work well
I'm going to get one of the memory foam ones to see how it goes

Louder horn - that's kinda funny, but I think the only time I've used the horn was to tap on it to say goodbye when leaving the neighborhood on a trip
There are some crazy drivers out there especially in FL

Dim the radio lights - I haven't poked around on this yet, but I'm thinking there may be a setting on the radio menu itself for that. If I find it I'll let you know
I've been through all the settings and can't find it. I haven't looked at the wires for this radio, but most radios have a wire that you hook up to the dimmer switch for the dash

Electric front shade - I guess I'm tall enough that if the sun is right on the horizon, the shade *just* drops low enough. I sometimes raise the driver seat to compensate if necessary
Apparently it is programmable. I need to find the manual to find the procedure

The Tick-tick-tick - hmmmm, haven't experienced that one yet. Knock on wood.
Apparently it is the hub caps and it is very common

Front sliding window latch - these are the same that I've seen on many other coaches. Nothing special but they seem to work ok for us.
I need to tighten ours because I have found them in the unlocked position probably due to vibrations. IMO, poor design

Brighter light for patio - we actually love the amber light because it does not attract bugs. It's an easy fix to replace the amber lense with a clear one - you'll get more light, and you'll get WAY more bugs, right at the door. If you need more light, I would suggest installing an LED strip under the awning or using a lantern away from your door.
Oh, we know all about bugs since we are originally from FL. I also do like the amber light, but it would be nice to have a bright one for when needed and not have to use a flashlight

Center console loose and saggy - Hmmm, ours isn't saggy in the least, nor is it bouncy. I leave my cell phone laying in the center and it doesn't move at all. You might be able to reinforce from underneath, between the carpet and the bottom of the molding to help dampen any vibration.
I'm going to try and post a couple of videos of what I'm referring to. The fix will most likely be having to remove the black dash to install foam under the top part of it and a brace from the lower left to somewhere solid.

We have a punch list of things to address as well and I'll get around to posting sometime soon.
Couldn't get the video to embed, but here are the links:

http://youtu.be/4t6_i_psaHA

http://youtu.be/wkoA6duIzXQ
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:59 PM   #38
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On the saggy center consol>>You need a brace added from the bottom of the frame to the Motor cove frame just in front of and above the motor cover. Also on mine the fake wood panel that holds eveything is screwed into the center frame with six screws. The frame is just thin formed beige plastic. FR didn't bother to provide any substantial material for the screws to bite into, so,, the screws strip and get loose allowing the panel ( and everything on it) to move anywhere it wants to. I added speed clips to the plastic frames around the console and also around the dash fake wood and the arm rest too. Where-ever FR has a self tapping screw into plastic I add these. Gets rid of a lot of issues. Look at:
Engineered Fastening Solutions, Fasteners, Cable Ties, Distributor Standard - Bolt Products, Inc.
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:23 PM   #39
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I have a bag of those clips laying around somewhere. When I get a chance I'm going to take it all apart to reinforce it. At the same time I'll install a better sub amp (behind the black panel) and hook up the dimmer wire from the radio to the switch. I'm also going to look into installing a glove box or something on the passenger side of the console. Our FR is a nice coach, but some things are really cheap and poorly designed. I guess you pay for what you get.
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:51 PM   #40
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I agree. Let us know what you figure out on the glovebox. I added a kicked amplified sub-woofer on my radio. It is between the driver side wall and the seat. I would have gladly paid double for the clip cost of ~$5 to $10 on the coaches price. As they say " we don't need no stinkin nuts"
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