Trip to FL - Lessons Learned

[alparmer]

We left Saturday morning and it was 24 degrees outside. I turned the engine on to warm it up so we could use the heater. In the meantime, I retracted the levelers, and then went to close the slide outs to no avail. Out in the cold I went through every in line fuse and latch fuses. Still nothing. So I figured that maybe the levelers needed to be down (learning as I go) Nope, that didn't work either. So I figured the engine needed to be off...yup, that worked, but now the levelers wouldn't work even with the engine on. So, after going through everything over and over I found out that I had press the two test buttons on the two latch fuses for the leveler system. I relatch them and now I had nothing but blinking lights in the leveler control panel. Not having the manual, I found one on line (gotta love the net). I had to reset the system by holding all four buttons at once (front/rear/left/right). That fixed it.

On the way down we hit nothing but crosswinds. I did notice a difference in sway now that I installed the track bar and CHF. Not a huge difference, probably due to how much wind was out there, but mostly when the road was not even.

Gas mileage was ~7.8 if I kept it between 60 - 62 MPH which was most of the trip. Once we hit Fl I opened it up to 70 and got 6.5 the entire way. I actually liked how well it handled at 70 vs. 60.

One thing I noticed, and I hope there is a fix, is that the cruise control is extremely accurate. It will hold whatever speed you set it on up hill or down hill. The problem with that is that going through rolling hills, it will downshift the tranny sometimes two gears to keep the speed instead of letting a little bit of speed bleed off a little to get over the hill. I found myself turning it off because it was annoying to hear the engine crank up 4k rpms on and off.

We stayed at a wally world overnight without any issues. There were two other Class As and a couple of truckers so we figured it was okay.

Made it to our campground late last night and when I went to do the auto level, the front end was too low. Come to find out I need to do a manual level and then calibrate the system.

Other than that, it was a good drive down even though my shoulders are sore from driving with a cross wind 80% of the time.

[kenandterry]

Glad you made it down safely after all.

BTW........I always just deploy the levelers (with the engine running, as is needed) Once I'm sure I'm happy with the rig being level, I make my connections to water, sewer and electric. Might as well be sure everything reaches before getting too set up. Because of the current draw of deploying the slides, I make sure I'm hooked up to electric......less stress on the batteries.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Glad you made it down safely after all.

BTW........I always just deploy the levelers (with the engine running, as is needed) Once I'm sure I'm happy with the rig being level, I make my connections to water, sewer and electric. Might as well be sure everything reaches before getting too set up. Because of the current draw of deploying the slides, I make sure I'm hooked up to electric......less stress on the batteries.

X2

[guizzi]

x3

[ohiobill]

I agree on the sensitivity of the cruise. I've found that if you speed up slightly as you approach a mild grade, then back off the throttle as you climb, you can avoid the downshift. It does mean you have to be on and off the gas occasionally, but you can use the cruise without all the revving for every little hill. (and it gives you something to do besides correcting for the eternal crosswind)

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by ohiobill

I agree on the sensitivity of the cruise. I've found that if you speed up slightly as you approach a mild grade, then back off the throttle as you climb, you can avoid the downshift. It does mean you have to be on and off the gas occasionally, but you can use the cruise without all the revving for every little hill. (and it gives you something to do besides correcting for the eternal crosswind)

Thanks for the tip. My pickup truck is way overpowered with a Hemi engine and it's the total opposite. It'll actually lose 5 mph before it downshifts. I'll love to swap them around. Not sure if the cruise control has an external adjustment or if it's programmable.

Another thing I noticed is that with the front CHF the front tires are limited as to how far they can drop down. The sway bar sits up at a higher angle and when you use the levelers, the leaf springs hit the sway bar. We are currently in a camping spot where in order to level the coach the front wheels have to come off the ground. I looked under and noticed that the leaf springs and the entire weight of the front axle were resting on the swaybar. I dropped the coach down and removed the swaybar links to let the axle drop down a bit more...which it did but still the tires were about an inch up in the air due to the spot. I ended up driving up on some blocks I had so that the tires will take up some of the weight and to help with sway.

When we get ready to head out I'll redo the CHF. Nevertheless, I'm going to have to find longer links so that the swaybar stays parallel with the ground.

[sherman12]

OP, what you explained with the cruise control is exactly the reason why I almost never drive with it. I don't need the engine spinning at 4000 rpm to keep a certain speed. However, I have not tried ohiobill's suggestion of speeding up with the cruise on. Sounds like a great idea, have to test it out next season.

On setting up I always plug in my electric first, water second then DW will run levelers while I monitor from outside. When pulling into campsite I always adjust positioning of the whole rig, with getting out and taking a visual with DW before shutting her down to set camp. I'm working outside while my DW takes care of slides and inside set up. Works well for us and we've used the same system so it becomes second nature since we got into RV'ing seven years ago.

[BillMFl]

On modest hills if you use the gas pedal to increase speed you will prevent the downshift. On long steep hills just tap the brake or use the button on the steering wheel to come off CC. For short steep rolling hills I speed up enough on the down side to gain enough momentum for the next up. Sometimes its just better to turn the CC off.

[intercept]

I have the 2012 Ford drive train and it is greatly improved over my old 2001 as far as the cruise goes but it is still too tight for holding the peed. I would like to have the ability to allow 3 to 5 mph either way. I looked into it and it is computer controlled so we will need to look toward Ford for the answer.

[Cornelius]

Where are the two test buttons on the two latch fuses for the leveler system located? Something to know in case I ever have the same problem. Thanks.

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by Cornelius

Where are the two test buttons on the two latch fuses for the leveler system located? Something to know in case I ever have the same problem. Thanks.

I'm unable to take a picture of it, but they are above the coach's batteries which is the compartment just behind the front passenger wheel. It's the two fuses/boxes that have a small red button each. If you press the button, you will see the latch pop out of the left side of them. To reset, you just push the latch back in. It would have been nice for the leveler system to have an internal battery or capacitor that will store the setting. If you replace the batteries or for some reason loose power, you will have to reset the leveler system and calibrate it.

To reset, you just hold all four buttons simultaneously (front/back/left/side). To calibrate it, you have to manually level the coach and then tell the leveler system that it is leveled by turning the panel off, then on, pressing the front button 5 times followed by the rear button five times, then the retract button 3 times and you are set.

[intercept]

Look under the steps next to the electric control center box on the 378 model. I don't know what model you have they may be in a different place but in any case they will be very close to the Battery Control Center. They are little black rounded rectangles with a red center button on mine.

[43D18]

We just returned from Florida, probably drove in some of the same winds you did. Definitely makes for a more "interesting" driving experience. We did the Cheap Handling Fix before this trip, moving the sway bar linkage to the other holes - Was it better? maybe. If so, not dramatically. Certainly wasn't worse. I have to remind myself that on the 351, you're looking at a relative short wheelbase to overall coach length ratio, which magnifies any sway or tail-wagging sensations. Still, I'm happy with the way the coach handles, all things considered.

We've discovered too that it's necessary to have the coach running to engage or disengage the levelers.

[43D18]

Originally Posted by alparmmer

We left Saturday morning and it was 24 degrees outside. I turned the engine on to warm it up so we could use the heater.

A sidenote about this coach on cold weather - I insulated the water connection / outside shower bay w/ 1/2" foam, since the water filter and outside shower seems to be the most vulnerable for very cold weather. Last night it was 28 degrees here, but it stayed mid 30's with just the little 12v light on in the bay. Tonight it's down near 20, and I have a trouble light laying in the bay w/ a 60 watt bulb, and it's staying mid 40's inside the bay. That should be more than adequate.

[Cornelius]

Thank you alparmmer and intercept for the details about the leveler test buttons.

Regarding the freezing weather and water pipes issue, I have also used a 60 watt light bulb in the compartment with the outside shower and water filter, as well as the one with the water pump. Make sure that nothing flammable is near the light bulb. Inexpensive clip-on lamp fixtures are available at Home Depot for about $6 each that work well to keep things warm. It's just like the old Kenner Easy Bake Oven...

[sherman12]

Good info on the leveler reset buttons. Regarding the trouble light in the utility bay be careful of the metal bulb cover. It can become very hot and melt plastic in the bay. Learned this some years back when I took my car in for warranty service and there was a round burn mark in the carpet. Dealer argued with me that it was their fault till I figured out what caused the burn,the mechanic laying down the hot trouble light on the floor.

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by 43D18

We just returned from Florida, probably drove in some of the same winds you did. Definitely makes for a more "interesting" driving experience. We did the Cheap Handling Fix before this trip, moving the sway bar linkage to the other holes - Was it better? maybe. If so, not dramatically. Certainly wasn't worse. I have to remind myself that on the 351, you're looking at a relative short wheelbase to overall coach length ratio, which magnifies any sway or tail-wagging sensations. Still, I'm happy with the way the coach handles, all things considered.

We've discovered too that it's necessary to have the coach running to engage or disengage the levelers.

Like you said, all things considered, it still handles pretty good. After all, we are driving a huge sail. My truck does the same thing. The difference is that we don't have a lot of room left over with a MH before we are outside our lane.

I have the same feeling with the CHF. I only drove it from the dealer to our campsite and from the campsite to our home without it. I did notice that the rear end doesn't move around as much as it used to, but that's due to the tiger track mod in the rear. I'm considering moving the sway bar links back to their original outer position to see if it feels different on our way back to OH. If I notice a difference I could pull over a rest stop and move them back.

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by 43D18

A sidenote about this coach on cold weather - I insulated the water connection / outside shower bay w/ 1/2" foam, since the water filter and outside shower seems to be the most vulnerable for very cold weather. Last night it was 28 degrees here, but it stayed mid 30's with just the little 12v light on in the bay. Tonight it's down near 20, and I have a trouble light laying in the bay w/ a 60 watt bulb, and it's staying mid 40's inside the bay. That should be more than adequate.

Thanks for the tip.

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by Cornelius

Thank you alparmmer and intercept for the details about the leveler test buttons.

Regarding the freezing weather and water pipes issue, I have also used a 60 watt light bulb in the compartment with the outside shower and water filter, as well as the one with the water pump. Make sure that nothing flammable is near the light bulb. Inexpensive clip-on lamp fixtures are available at Home Depot for about $6 each that work well to keep things warm. It's just like the old Kenner Easy Bake Oven...

IIRC there is a heater duct in the water tank/water pump compartment. You'd have to run the heater though.

[miked11272]

We have a 2009 350 first mod was the rear track bar from Henderson worked good. The next mod was the chf the handling greatly improved. The 5 star tune is by far the best mod the increase in horsepower and torque, and best of all the correction of the shift points. We recently did a 2600 mile trip to florida and never tached over 3000 rpm's and because of that had a slight increase in fuel mileage.