Water Bummer

[Frank DeFeo]

Only been 3 weeks since last trip and all was fine. Pulled into parks yesterday and got all hooked up. Went to used toilet and flush, water stared to flow then trickled then stopped. Tried 2nd toilet and same thing happened. Turned on all water faucets, again same thing. At this point no water in mh.
Went out side to check park water supply, plenty of pressure. No kinks in hose and water flowing through filter. Now baffled.
Decided to remove aerator/filter from one of the faucets. It was totally clogged with calcium grit. Checked all other faucets, same thing. Cleaned them and all working fine. However still no toilet water. I assume the water supply valves inlets are also clogged. For now buckets of flush water will have to do until I get back home to order new valves and deal with the problem.
Hell of a start to a week long trip.

[Mr. Dan]

Here's what I wrote to another member:

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

Most units have a screen in the water connection at the back of the toilet. That screen can become plugged - probably from flakes from the water heater. Turn off city water; release pressure by opening a faucet; unscrew input water fitting at rear of toilet; clean screen; replace and test. Apologies if your unit doesn't have this screen.

[Sbryant]

Yes you need to check the screen on the water line behind the toilet. My husband even helped a neighbor who was in an Allegro clean out the inlet to the toilet.

[BBBlue]

Originally Posted by Sbryant

Yes you need to check the screen on the water line behind the toilet. My husband even helped a neighbor who was in an Allegro clean out the inlet to the toilet.

x2

[Frank DeFeo]

Ok, checked it out. No screen, but when I took off the supply I could see a bunch of grit. Took a small head flat screwdriver that would fit in the valve opening. Was able to scrape out a bunch of the stuff from both toilet lines. All is working ok now.
Thanks for the recommendations!

[Paul S.]

Change your hot water heater anode and flush the hot water heater.

[railroadjwk]

My toilet water valve plugs with calcium grit also but only when I use water from the fresh water tank using the pump. Been told to change the anode in the hot water tank also and flush it. Can someone explain to me how grit from a hot water tank gets to the toilet when I'm using water from the fresh water tank which is cold water. Never have this problem when using city water.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by railroadjwk

My toilet water valve plugs with calcium grit also but only when I use water from the fresh water tank using the pump. Been told to change the anode in the hot water tank also and flush it. Can someone explain to me how grit from a hot water tank gets to the toilet when I'm using water from the fresh water tank which is cold water. Never have this problem when using city water.

Always wondered the same thing, as there is no connection between the Hot and Cold. Debris from WH shouldn't ever show up in the cold water lines...physically impossible.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by railroadjwk

My toilet water valve plugs with calcium grit also but only when I use water from the fresh water tank using the pump. Been told to change the anode in the hot water tank also and flush it. Can someone explain to me how grit from a hot water tank gets to the toilet when I'm using water from the fresh water tank which is cold water. Never have this problem when using city water.

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

Always wondered the same thing, as there is no connection between the Hot and Cold. Debris from WH shouldn't ever show up in the cold water lines...physically impossible.

There's at least one way it's possible. If you don't drain your HWH using your anode rod, but just open your low point drain, then the HWH drains by backflow into the cold water lines, taking all the white crud with it. Now the white crud is in your cold water lines and, depending on exactly how it's plumbed, it will get into faucets and toilet valves the next time you go out.

Numerous threads here of people doing that.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

Always wondered the same thing, as there is no connection between the Hot and Cold. Debris from WH shouldn't ever show up in the cold water lines...physically impossible.

Not impossible at all. All you water heater is is a tank where cold water goes in at the bottom from the cold water lines, and exits at the top into the hot water lines after being heated. It's the pressure from the cold water line that pushes the hot water out the top.

As Rockfordroo explained, the water that is in the tank, will backflow if not being pressurized to push out the top of the tank. The cold water and hot water lines are connected via the water heater tank, and it's simple gravity.

[MtBiker]

As rockfordroo said, if you drain your fw tank it sucks right off the bottom of the water heater all the white scale that is sitting there.

[Frank DeFeo]

As the one who started this thread I wondered the same thing, regarding how is grit from hot water tank getting into cold water lines. As far as city water vs pumped water, I have never used my pump. Never had a need to.
After reading everyone’s comments I understand how this could have happened.
Anyhow I have already ordered a new rod which will be here tomorrow. I will flush tank and install new rod.
BTW, when I ordered the rod I found that there were 2 types, both had pluses & minuses.
The suburban rod installed will be difficult to remove since it rusts in place because of steel to steel. And , a replacement will do the same. However it is magnesium which will offer more protection.
The other option is an aluminum rod that has a brass fitting connection that will not rust making it much easier to replace, but less effective.
I opted for the original replacement.
Thanks to everyone for your comments.

[Scrapper]

When you change or drain your HW via the anode rod drain plug, you are supposed to put teflon pluming tape on it.

If you have never removed the anode plug to inspect it and flush the tank you may have trouble getting it loose. Use a 1-1/16 inch, 6-point socket, a 6 inch extension and a 1/2 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to loosen the plug.

It may be pretty tight. On my TT it took 2 of us to get it loose the first time, one on the ratchet and one holding the extension steady. This was 8 weeks after we bought it new.

You should remove the anode rod at least once a year to inspect it and flush the HW tank. Depending on the mineral content of the water, you could have to replace the anode every year.

Why FR doesn't use teflon tape to begin with is beyond me.

[Frank DeFeo]

If it’s could be that tough How about using an impact wrench? Any reason why I shouldn’t ?

[Scrapper]

I would say it depends on you and how well the threaded part is welded to the tank. Whatever you do don't forget teflon tape and it doesn't need to be real tight to keep it from leaking.

[WolfWhistle]

Its the old case of not putting the hot water heater in bypass before draining. It should be the first thing you do winterizing and the last thing you do when preparing for summer. And, always, always, always make sure the water heater is full before turning it on when you put it back into service. Oh, not all water heaters have anode rods; Atwoods have an aluminum tank, so not need for a sacrificial rod. If you do (such as Suburban units) and it has plenty of life left, no need to replace, just because of the crud. With the unit in bypass and the drain plug or anode removed, flush it as best you can. And, yes water heater sediment absolutely can get into the cold water side, as you have just found out.

Maybe the youtube video will help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83m67RRb3no

WW