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Old 07-17-2015, 12:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post


For everyone's information these switch fail because they are turned on and off while you are hooked up to power and cause the contacts to arch and cause internal damage.
When turning on and off make sure you are NOT hooked up to any power.
This way the contact will not arch when making contact. The switch is NOT designed to handle the arching.
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:24 PM   #22
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Thanks for that good tip Iggy. Later RJD
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Old 07-17-2015, 02:50 PM   #23
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Thanks for the tip Iggy
frank
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:36 PM   #24
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Mine did the same thing and the switch wouldn't move. I took it out to replace it and after trying in again, it worked. I put it back and it has been fine ever since. I don't have any idea why it quit and then worked just fine. Weird gremlins at work!
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:55 PM   #25
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A 110v switch that can't be used to switch 110v on and off? I find that a little preposterous.
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:52 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
A 110v switch that can't be used to switch 110v on and off? I find that a little preposterous.
I have been in the commercial and residential electric business for over 45 years. That is my credentials.
Their are switches that can handle on and off with load (wattage) and ones that are not load switches. This Chinese toggle switch in our rigs is junk and do not have sufficient contacts size nor arch protection to handle any load and will burn the contacts up and or damage the little spring inside to make it inoperative.
Believe it or not....


ADDITIONAL SUGGESTION
If your switch goes bad and needs replacing instead of the 10 amp replacement switch find a 20 amp version that is the same size. The higher amperage contacts will be able to handle to arching much better.
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:05 PM   #27
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I have been in the commercial and residential electric business for over 45 years. That is my credentials.
Their are switches that can handle on and off with load (wattage) and ones that are not load switches. This Chinese toggle switch in our rigs is junk and do not have sufficient contacts size nor arch protection to handle any load and will burn the contacts up and or damage the little spring inside to make it inoperative.
Believe it or not....
I guess I'll just have to take my chances of using it 3 or 4 times a year. It's not a big deal if it does go bad, they're not that expensive or hard to replace, altho I have never in 40+ yrs had to replace one. To each his own.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suburban-232...5d6919&vxp=mtr
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:44 AM   #28
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Update: Took 5 minutes to replace the switch and water heater works fine once again.
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