Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-14-2019, 09:39 PM   #41
Senior Member
 
Dennis King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 257
Would the heating element keep both gas and Electric from working? Also would it keep electric from getting there? Tech checked for electric and could not find at the heater! An element I could probably change but not sure about the other things . The instructions were very good. Plus heating element is a lot less.
Dennis King is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2019, 09:29 AM   #42
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 4,056
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis King View Post
Would the heating element keep both gas and Electric from working? Also would it keep electric from getting there? Tech checked for electric and could not find at the heater! An element I could probably change but not sure about the other things . The instructions were very good. Plus heating element is a lot less.
It sounds like the tech did not know what he was doing . if you don't have 120 to the tank the only way to check that is on top of water heater where the 120 comes in . not from the front of the heater . if he took a reading from the front it could be as simple as a bad switch . if he tested 120 in the electrical box located on the top and did not get 120 then the problem is from the distribution panel to the heater . if it will not fire on gas then 12 volts needs to be checked going into igniter board if 12 volts are there then bad board . if not then back to the 12 volt switch or distribution panel where the 12v fuses are . if you were running on the pump and water stopped then you maybe emptied water tank it would not cause the water to run out of the hot water heater . . if the element was bad you would still get a 120v reading . same with the t-stats you would get 120 on one side of the t-stat . the on off switches can go bad for the electric or the spade connections could be loose behind the switch . pull the switch and check . also the wiring from the switch to the t-stat could be bad . but again need to check the 120 at the electrical box on top of water heater where the 120 comes in to feed unit . JMHO
MR.M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2019, 09:58 AM   #43
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis King View Post
Would the heating element keep both gas and Electric from working? Also would it keep electric from getting there? Tech checked for electric and could not find at the heater! An element I could probably change but not sure about the other things . The instructions were very good. Plus heating element is a lot less.
No, a burned out heating element would not stop the LP side of the tank from heating.

Sounds like your 'Tech' was not very qualified.
If there was no electric at the heater (your words) they should have used the proper diagnostic steps to verify the path of 120v and 12v like MrR M indicated.

Changing out parts without knowing the reason why something doesn't work can in a few instances, fix something that is inoperative but the best solution is to start with the basics and diagnose what the failure is.

If you are not able to use a multimeter and troubleshoot and verify circuits, it is best to find a technician who can. One who will diagnose, pinpoint and make the needed repair(s) in a proper manner.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA

Days Camped '19=118 '20=116 '21=123 '22=134 '23=118 '24=90
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2019, 10:03 AM   #44
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,060
As I eluded to in an earlier post, regardless, I would replace this item to prevent unnecessary trip problems. The bad board turned off the propane part of the heater, but I was able to use the independent electrical side (The electrical element is on 100% of the time regardless of the GAs switch position of the CB is on and the switch on the outside by the heater is also on - I discovered this by accident - Dealer never explained anything when I picked up my RV). As I was off grid (I made my RV 100% off grid capable - do a thread search) 27 out of the 30 days, I used my batteries and inverter to make 120Vac for the heater when ever I needed hot water - once a day.

************************************************** ****
Direct from Amazon reviews re the Suburban Control Board - You decide

Please do not buy this board. Find the compatible board from Dinosaur Electronics and use that. The board that came on my Suburban water when I bought my travel trailer burned up after only 2 weeks. Had it replaced by the dealer with the same Suburban 520814 board, that one blew after 3 days. Next time, I was on the road and not near my dealer and no one around me had a board in stock. So, I ordered this one from Amazon. This one lasted a whopping 15 minutes. I'm pretty sure Suburban released a recall on these boards, but I can't find a link or anything for that. Long story short, don't buy this board, you're wasting your money.
****
My camper is less than a year old and my water heater stopped lighting. I have the Surburban sw6d propane only heater. The igniter was not sparking. I tried replacing the igniter first but that did not fix it. I then replaced the board and it works again!
****
Update: the new board failed in about 7 months. In that 7 months, i might have switched on the water heater only 20 times. These boards seem to be defective. It started taking a long time to light the water heater. Then, it started lighting but would shut off the water heater a few minutes later. Sometimes, it would light but i could hear the igniter sparking as if it was still trying to light. Soon after, the igniter would not even spark. I have since replaced it with the Dinosar electronics UIB S board which fixed my issues. We'll see how long this one last.
****
Installed in our RV Trailer on 12/3/16 on the propane water heater. Used it only 14 non-consecutive days, between 12/3/16-4/14/17 and it is already BURNED OUT! We did not abuse it, we don't leave the water heater on all the time, we only turn on the water heater a few hours per day.
****
Had to replace our original water heater after the tank cracked from some very rough roads near Chicago. I installed an exact new replacement, and the circuit board on it only lasted two months. Bought this one last September and everything worked fine through a long trip in May - June this year. Then it quit sometime in July. Finally got around to taking it out and if my memory is correct, this is the same failure as the previous one. Just more made in China junk.
****
Board did not work. I took trailer (with board installed) to local RV service center. They tested board in their tester and said it was good. However, after ruling out all other issues why water would not work, they installed a new board and water heater worked fine.
****
The Q3 diode burnt up after 2 uses. Found out it's a problem with this board. Ordered a different brand from the RV dealer and haven't had any issues.
****
This product was unfinished. There should be a 500ohm resistor on the end. Not a good part. Prolly a thousand like this done. It even shows the needed part in the picture is missing! Right where the connector is!
270S is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:20 PM.