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09-24-2017, 12:54 PM
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#1
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Stupac7
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Ladysmith
Posts: 30
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Water Heater "Thing"
If you can see the attached photo, I am a new to me RV owner of a Georgetown, 350 and I was practicing my skill at draining the hot water heater. I watched a Forest River video and the guy simply pointed to the plug to remove water. Well, I removed plug and all this came out with a bunch of what looked to me like white calcium deposits. Should I look to replace this part? It is all pitted. Or is this just a natural cycle of things in the water heater?
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09-24-2017, 12:56 PM
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#2
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Scoundrel
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Montrose, Colorado
Posts: 2,810
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Anode rod. $13.00 bucks.
__________________
2024 Geo Pro 15TB, 400W Solar, 2 Golf Cart batteries
2015 F-150 5.0L V8 XLT Crew Cab, 4x4, Tow Package, 36 gal tank, 3.55 locker, 1891 payload, Integrated Brake Controller, Roadmaster Active Suspension
Wooden Spoon Survivor
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09-24-2017, 12:57 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 717
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It's the anode rod, keeps hw tank from corrosion. It's connected to the plug, you can get replacement at an rv store. Usually replace yearly, for best protection.
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Bill and Gail
2016 Sunseeker 3010DS
V10 6 speed transmission
2017 Ford Fiesta toad
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09-24-2017, 12:59 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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That anode rod has a ways to go before replacing is necessary. Looks like it's doing its job.
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09-24-2017, 01:04 PM
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#5
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Stupac7
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Ladysmith
Posts: 30
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Thanks bunch people. This is a great forum.
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09-24-2017, 01:22 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,845
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That anode rod is fine and has a lot of life left.
No need to replace it yet.
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Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.) 
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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09-24-2017, 01:31 PM
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#7
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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X2, as others have said no need to replace it. Just flush the water heater while the plug/anode is out and you will be good.
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Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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09-28-2017, 07:19 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 498
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Those bits of debris can migrate to the filter screens on the toilet line and the sink faucets. There is a check valve on the cold water line to the water heater that opens when the water is being added to the water heater. The particles swirl around in the tank and a few can be siphoned back into the cold water line and then migrate to various locations. They can also migrate in the hot water supply. Many folks think this debris is from the RV park water system which can also happen. But those little white scales are from the anode. Replacing the anode annually helps. Once the rod starts to break down it seems to accelerate. Shamefully I once removed mine and all that was left was a bare rod! I have had to clean all my water diffuser screens several times over 5 years. Others have posted much the same.
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09-28-2017, 07:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Benbrook, Tx
Posts: 508
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Plenty left on that rod. Good to go.
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Dwayne and Susan
Jiro and Phoebe-4 legged family members
Mike and Dana - Traveling buddies
2016 Ford F350 XLT 6.7 Powerstroke DRW 4X4
2016 Brookstone 395RL
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09-28-2017, 07:48 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Carlisle, Arkansas
Posts: 1,387
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Since you have it out I would replace it, Replace it annually no mater what
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 2005 Cedar Creek 30RLBS/TrailAir Hitch/ MORryde 7K IS/Disc Brakes/ PI PT-50 EMS/ RV Flex Armor Roof
2015 RAM 3500 DRW 6.7 Cummins 3.42/ Garmin 760RV
40 Gal TransferFlow fuel tank/ TST 507
Amateur Radio W5CI 2019 Days Camping 25
2020 Days Camping 7
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09-28-2017, 08:12 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,300
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Just to explain a little further. The anode rod is made from a sacrificial metal meaning basically it will corrode before the metal in the tank, thereby protecting the tank. The rate at which it corrodes is dependent on the quality of the water. Since many campgrounds are on well water, the water tends to be more corrosive as less conditioning is done on the water. In addition when the anode rod corrodes, the white crud that falls off sits in the bottom of the WH and can be drawn into the water lines and clog valves and spigot screens. I recommend removing it at least annually to both drain the WH and check the rod.
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2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
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2 100W solar panels
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09-28-2017, 08:34 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,954
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Stuart, since you obviously have the Suburban water heater, I would suggest you watch the 5 instructional videos that Suburban provided us here. The very first one explains the anode rod.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1527599
Also this FAQ may help in the operation of your water heater:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html
Hope this helps
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 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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