Water Pump Died

[flynfool]

I have a 2016 Georgetown 329 and have had little trouble with it for the past two years of full-time RVing. The lighted switch for the Arctic Pac, on the Command Center, stopped working. I changed that switch for the water pump switch to get the Arctic Pac back online (we have had some freezing weather here in N. Texas). Knowing the WP switch was bad, I replaced it with another rocker switch from ACE. Must have been in the ON position when I wired it up because there was a spark. Now the WP doesn't work and all the Command Center status buttons/lights for tank levels, battery charge, and LP levels aren't working. I checked the WP fuse outside, a 10A, and it was OK. I don't know where the fuse box is, if there is one, to see if any WP/Command Center fuse(s) are burned out. Not sure now what that little spark took out but I think the little board for the status lights might be toast. Any help tracking down the WP circuit would be helpful.

flynfool
Georgetown 329

[cavie]

Originally Posted by flynfool

I have a 2016 Georgetown 329 and have had little trouble with it for the past two years of full-time RVing. The lighted switch for the Arctic Pac, on the Command Center, stopped working. I changed that switch for the water pump switch to get the Arctic Pac back online (we have had some freezing weather here in N. Texas). Knowing the WP switch was bad, I replaced it with another rocker switch from ACE. Must have been in the ON position when I wired it up because there was a spark. Now the WP doesn't work and all the Command Center status buttons/lights for tank levels, battery charge, and LP levels aren't working. I checked the WP fuse outside, a 10A, and it was OK. I don't know where the fuse box is, if there is one, to see if any WP/Command Center fuse(s) are burned out. Not sure now what that little spark took out but I think the little board for the status lights might be toast. Any help tracking down the WP circuit would be helpful.

flynfool
Georgetown 329

Find your Converter. Usually near the floor under a bed or refrigerator. It will have a hinged door over it. It will have anywhere from 6 to 12 fuses in it. It sounds like you blew out a 12-volt control fuse.

[Skip12]

First, follow Cavie's advise.

I browsed a few sites looking for the fuse box on your model with no luck.

These may or may not be helpful -

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...box-53321.html

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ion-77124.html

Second, consider investing in a mulitmeter. It takes the guess work out of investigating electrical problems. In your example, you would easily know for certain if you were getting 12v to the panel or not.

Good luck and let us know how the investigation proceeds.

[flynfool]

Thanks for suggestions. I did find the fuse panel next to the circuit breakers in the bedroom and, sure enough, the WP fuse (15A) was dead. I tried to put another one in but it arced and blew instantly so there is some kind of a short somewhere upstream. I do have a multimeter so where should I begin to run this down?

[flynfool]

Latest update: Checking switches in Command Center:
There is 12 VDC at the Arctic Pac switch and it is lit and working, thank goodness. What with the 15A fuse blown on the WP circuit, there is no 12VDC on the WP switch. Since the fuse blows every time I try to replace it, there must be some kind of short in the WP circuit. Interestingly, the fuse at the WP in the compartment below is OK. Any suggestions as to how to track down the short in the WP circuit? Thanks in advance.

flynfool
Georgetown 329

[cavie]

Originally Posted by flynfool

Thanks for suggestions. I did find the fuse panel next to the circuit breakers in the bedroom and, sure enough, the WP fuse (15A) was dead. I tried to put another one in but it arced and blew instantly so there is some kind of a short somewhere upstream. I do have a multimeter so where should I begin to run this down?

Make a list of all the things that don't work. Look at their locations. Pick out the one you think is in the middle. Go there and disconnect the 12 volt wiring. All the wires. Replace the fuse and see what happens. If you have power then the problem is downstrem from your location. If you blow the new fuse then you problem is up stream of the problem. Electric trouble shooting 101.

Fridge, furnnace, WH, range hood, all use 12 volt to operate the control circuits. Disconect your control panel also.

[bubbles]

Pull the wires on the WP switch and see if the fuse at the fuse panel doesn't blow. You may have hooked it up wrong.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Pull the wires on the WP switch and see if the fuse at the fuse panel doesn't blow. You may have hooked it up wrong.

^^THIS^^

You have the wires connected on the (ACE replacement) switch incorrectly and it is blowing the fuse. Or, you got a bad switch.

Those lighted switches have a HOT feed, (from the fuse that keeps blowing) a line out (to the water pump) and a ground to make the switch's light illuminate. You've got something connected incorrectly.

[flynfool]

Thanks for all the help. The problem is solved and it was one I created myself. I disconnected the switch entirely and replaced the fuse after blowing one when the switch was still in the circuit. I used the old switch and made sure it was off before connecting the three wires. Immediately the status lights for LP, Tanks, batteries, etc. came alive so I knew I was on the right track (at least that board was still OK). With fuse in place, wires connected, I held my breath and turned on the WP. Out came the water to the sound of the WP from below. No, the light on the switch is still not working but everything else is. Lesson learned: get the load off the circuit before replacing a switch because that arc/surge will blow a 15A fuse every time. That replacement switch I bought must have been undersized or the arc fried it because it doesn't work any more. Yes, couldn't have tracked it down without the trusty multimeter. Man do I feel good!!

[5picker]

Originally Posted by flynfool

Thanks for all the help. The problem is solved and it was one I created myself. I disconnected the switch entirely and replaced the fuse after blowing one when the switch was still in the circuit. I used the old switch and made sure it was off before connecting the three wires. Immediately the status lights for LP, Tanks, batteries, etc. came alive so I knew I was on the right track (at least that board was still OK). With fuse in place, wires connected, I held my breath and turned on the WP. Out came the water to the sound of the WP from below. No, the light on the switch is still not working but everything else is. Lesson learned: get the load off the circuit before replacing a switch because that arc/surge will blow a 15A fuse every time. That replacement switch I bought must have been undersized or the arc fried it because it doesn't work any more. Yes, couldn't have tracked it down without the trusty multimeter. Man do I feel good!!

Glad it is working for you now.

One note... while it is certainly a good idea to have the switch in the off position when connecting the wires, the fact of having it on didn't blow your fuse. The current draw connecting the wire isn't any more than the current draw when flipping the switch, once it is hooked up. If the protection fuse is the proper amperage, turning the switch to on or connecting the wire when the switch is on, is the same thing.

I still believe you had it incorrectly connected.

[Iggy]

Check the fuse at the water pump itself.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Check the fuse at the water pump itself.

Sometimes it does pay to read the posts first.