What a dipstick!

[Fargo444]

What a dipstick! When I was a kid in the Dakotas in the '50s that was one of our prime insults for someone who seemed to be clueless or acted in a foolish manner. In this case, I apply it to myself and to an actual dipstick --the one in our just-new-to-us 2016 Georgetown 364.

So this coach has only 11K on it and is in mint condition. But I always worry most about what I can't see. What is more the dip stick on the Triton V10 is really hard to read -- the sides get so messy on the way in or out it is hard to get a meaningful assessment on the oil in the crank.

Also, I could not get info from the dealer on when the oil was last changed. So I did a too quick Internet search and settled on Mobil synthetic 5W20 and the Motorcraft FL-820S filter. Even though it was 90 F outside the job went smoothly. Mission accomplished?

Not really. About 2 hours later I happened upon a box of manuals under the king bed and of course one was the 2016 Ford owner's manual - which I soon found out calls for synthetic blend 5W30.

So I'm going to check with some of the local Ford dealers (perhaps a fruitless effort?) today but right now I'm thinking I just did a $38 crankcase flush and I going to end up exchanging it with 5W30 weight?

The dipstick is still borderline useless IMHO.

[Schvarak]

Originally Posted by Fargo444

What a dipstick! When I was a kid in the Dakotas in the '50s that was one of our prime insults for someone who seemed to be clueless or acted in a foolish manner. In this case, I apply it to myself and to an actual dipstick --the one in our just-new-to-us 2016 Georgetown 364.

So this coach has only 11K on it and is in mint condition. But I always worry most about what I can't see. What is more the dip stick on the Triton V10 is really hard to read -- the sides get so messy on the way in or out it is hard to get a meaningful assessment on the oil in the crank.

Also, I could not get info from the dealer on when the oil was last changed. So I did a too quick Internet search and settled on Mobil synthetic 5W20 and the Motorcraft FL-820S filter. Even though it was 90 F outside the job went smoothly. Mission accomplished?

Not really. About 2 hours later I happened upon a box of manuals under the king bed and of course one was the 2016 Ford owner's manual - which I soon found out calls for synthetic blend 5W30.

So I'm going to check with some of the local Ford dealers (perhaps a fruitless effort?) today but right now I'm thinking I just did a $38 crankcase flush and I going to end up exchanging it with 5W30 weight?

The dipstick is still borderline useless IMHO.

Did you look at the top of the fill cap? It tells you exactly the oil viscosity required. Does the manual actually prescribe synthetic? I'm from Missouri -- prove it!

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by Schvarak

Did you look at the top of the fill cap? It tells you exactly the oil viscosity required. Does the manual actually prescribe synthetic? I'm from Missouri -- prove it!

Come on !! you're from Missouri ?? the saying is "SHOW ME" as in "SHOW ME STATE" !! not the "PROVE IT" state.
Sorry...I couldn't resist.

[Herowe]

The OP did not say it calls for Synthetic, he said Synthetic Blend, which the manual does call for. That is not full synthetic.

Ford has been using and recommending Synthetic Blend for a long time now.

[llr]

the Walmart by me stocks the ford / motorcraft synthetic blend and the motorcraft filters

[Schvarak]

Recommending and requiring are different words. I am using mob1 extended performance myself.15,000 miles between oil changes.

[Schvarak]

Prove it by showing me lol[emoji23] besides, I'm not from Missouri!!!

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Herowe

The OP did not say it calls for Synthetic, he said Synthetic Blend, which the manual does call for. That is not full synthetic.

Ford has been using and recommending Synthetic Blend for a long time now.

And nothing will be harmed by using full synthetic or what the OP has/hasn't done.
I wouldn't do a thing till next oil change.

The only thing I would do differently next time is get the viscosity it calls for.
I would still use full synthetic.

[Schvarak]

Agreed!!!

[Herowe]

Originally Posted by Schvarak

Prove it by showing me lol[emoji23] besides, I'm not from Missouri!!!

This was copied from page 126 of the 2016 F53 owners manual.

Recommended motor oil (U.S.): WSS-M2C945-A

1

Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor

Oil

XO-5W20-QSP

[Schvarak]

So, he's good to go!! Wunnerful!!

[Fargo444]

Thanks for all the comments! I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest motor oil is a hot button on this forum. Speaking of dipsticks -- that could be someone who does not read the weight off the top of the oil cap........

I was back at the coach this morning and just decided to drain out the 5W20 and refill with 5W30 just to teach myself a lesson and give me peace of mind. I know someone with a circa 2007 Ford F450 with a V-10 and I'll bet he can use that pass through oil -- if he wants to. If not recycle it goes.

The dipstick on this motor is still too hard to read with much confidence. No matter how you pull it out the the sides of the tip are smeared with oil. Probably the best time to read it will be after it has been sitting around for awhile -- like overnight?

[Fargo444]

Originally Posted by Herowe

This was copied from page 126 of the 2016 F53 owners manual.

Recommended motor oil (U.S.): WSS-M2C945-A

1

Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor

Oil

XO-5W20-QSP

Ha ha!

And this is on pg 123 of the 2016 F-Series Super Duty Class A Motorhome and Commercial Chassis Owner's Manual:

Recommended motor oil (US): Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor oil XO-5W30-QSP; Specification: WSS-M2C946-A

Which is it Ford? LOL!

[KyDan]

I think you were fine with the 20w oil but what's done is done....

Letting it sit overnight before checking the dip stick should help.
If it's still dicey to read- I have seen a dip stick with little holes drilled
in the end where the oil level should be.
Even if the sides of the stick get muddled you can more easily tell
the level by looking to see if there is oil film in the hole or not.
It sounds wonky but it really does make reading the stick easier.
The holes are about 1/16" I guess.
4 or 5 in a row right at the full mark going down to the add mark.
Maybe you can DIY some holes in there and help to see the level.

FWIW Consumer Reports says the jury is still out on Synthetic vs dino
oil. As long as it's good oil either will work.

Of course Ford is going to recommend Ford oil. I don't buy it tho....

Happy Trails!

[Stank Bait]

My truck is parked on an incline, nowhere to get it level other than to move into garage. No way to check oil level using the stick markings so I let it sit over night after an oil change and took a carbide scribe and drew a line in it where the oil was. Now I can check on the incline. The line I made is more visible than the marking on the stick. Maybe something like this will help.

[Herowe]

Originally Posted by Fargo444

Ha ha!

And this is on pg 123 of the 2016 F-Series Super Duty Class A Motorhome and Commercial Chassis Owner's Manual:

Recommended motor oil (US): Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor oil XO-5W30-QSP; Specification: WSS-M2C946-A

Which is it Ford? LOL!

And both say Synthetic Blend which is what I was getting at.

[BillMFl]

Some oil expert may jump on me for this but you would not have hurt your motor using all synthetic one time. Read an article not long ago that explained the differences between synthetic and non synthetic. By using a blend Ford is trying to take advantage of both types. Synthetic clings better and does not drain off of bearing surfaces as much when engine is parked. Most engine wear occurs during cold start ups and synthetic is better then. Non synthetic has a slight advantage once the engine is at operating temps. Has something to do with molecular particle size and load bearing at high temps as I recall.
Synthetic is more expensive but lasts longer before needing replacement. I have no knowledge of Ford's actual intent but am pretty sure the blend has the advantages of both types (a molecular chemist can explain it way better than me) and the combination has the potential to extend engine life. Once again, I am no expert but both types of oil have unique properties vs the other. The article I read went into the long chain molecular properties of both types and adhesion durability of nano particles that each provides. Clear as mud eh? Now some oil chemistry genious can explain it better for me![emoji1]

[Fargo444]

Originally Posted by BillMFl

Some oil expert may jump on me for this but you would not have hurt your motor using all synthetic one time. Read an article not long ago that explained the differences between synthetic and non synthetic. By using a blend Ford is trying to take advantage of both types. Synthetic clings better and does not drain off of bearing surfaces as much when engine is parked. Most engine wear occurs during cold start ups and synthetic is better then. Non synthetic has a slight advantage once the engine is at operating temps. Has something to do with molecular particle size and load bearing at high temps as I recall.
Synthetic is more expensive but lasts longer before needing replacement. I have no knowledge of Ford's actual intent but am pretty sure the blend has the advantages of both types (a molecular chemist can explain it way better than me) and the combination has the potential to extend engine life. Once again, I am no expert but both types of oil have unique properties vs the other. The article I read went into the long chain molecular properties of both types and adhesion durability of nano particles that each provides. Clear as mud eh? Now some oil chemistry genious can explain it better for me![emoji1]

Thanks for that! I agree with you. Well I have a Ph.D. in biochemistry which is close but no cigar. What's more it is from another century so it might have expired by now.

I have small interest in debating the pros and cons of synthetic vs. synthetic blend vs. petroleum based motor oil. I just know from years of experience that all are acceptable engine lubricants. I use full synthetic in my Jeep's 6.4 L V-8 Hemi which actually has over 100 more hp than the RV! (maybe I should tow the Georgetown with the Jeep instead LOL!!)

And that Hemi is one costly engine so no way I'd use synthetic if I thought there was any problem with it. Also note that a number if individuals on the string noted that they have been using full synthetic in their V-10s for some time.

By the way I just changed out the Mobil 1 5W20 for Mobil 1 5W30 so I stayed with full synthetic.

One of the reason I think Ford recommends synthetic blend is that it is better than petroleum and less costly than full synthetic. I think it might be a negative for sales if the more costly oil was "recommended" and owners started thinking they had to use the more expensive oil to keep within the warranty? Just my opinion.

BTW putting oil into that Georgetown was NOT a pleasant experience! If they had only made the oil fill spout a few inches shorter it would be much easier. As it is getting your head, shoulders and arms getting into that engine bay and trying to pour oil down that spout that is so close to the bay "ceiling" WITHOUT SPILLING was no fun. Slow and frustrating! So today I ordereda small 12 v pump with two long hoses and clips that can be fastened to the battery. Next time all oil will be put in "seamlessly" with that pump!

Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-Motor-Oi...EC.SEED%26ao%3

[Schvarak]

Originally Posted by Fargo444

Thanks for that! I agree with you. Well I have a Ph.D. in biochemistry which is close but no cigar. What's more it is from another century so it might have expired by now.

I have small interest in debating the pros and cons of synthetic vs. synthetic blend vs. petroleum based motor oil. I just know from years of experience that all are acceptable engine lubricants. I use full synthetic in my Jeep's 6.4 L V-8 Hemi which actually has over 100 more hp than the RV! (maybe I should tow the Georgetown with the Jeep instead LOL!!)

And that Hemi is one costly engine so no way I'd use synthetic if I thought there was any problem with it. Also note that a number if individuals on the string noted that they have been using full synthetic in their V-10s for some time.

By the way I just changed out the Mobil 1 5W20 for Mobil 1 5W30 so I stayed with full synthetic.

One of the reason I think Ford recommends synthetic blend is that it is better than petroleum and less costly than full synthetic. I think it might be a negative for sales if the more costly oil was "recommended" and owners started thinking they had to use the more expensive oil to keep within the warranty? Just my opinion.

BTW putting oil into that Georgetown was NOT a pleasant experience! If they had only made the oil fill spout a few inches shorter it would be much easier. As it is getting your head, shoulders and arms getting into that engine bay and trying to pour oil down that spout that is so close to the bay "ceiling" WITHOUT SPILLING was no fun. Slow and frustrating! So today I ordereda small 12 v pump with two long hoses and clips that can be fastened to the battery. Next time all oil will be put in "seamlessly" with that pump!

Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-Motor-Oi...EC.SEED%26ao%3

Would you please redo the link to the 12v pump. The one in your post isn't working for me. Thank you.

[Fargo444]

Originally Posted by Schvarak

Would you please redo the link to the 12v pump. The one in your post isn't working for me. Thank you.

Sure here it is again.

12v Motor Oil Diesel Engine Oil Extractor Scavenge Suction Transfer Change Pump | eBay

If this does not work again search eBay for:
"12v Motor Oil Diesel Engine Oil Extractor Scavenge Suction Transfer Change Pump"