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Old 07-29-2016, 10:07 PM   #11
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What Brand Water Heater

Nope, don't think there is another way. We often are on the road during the winter, so don't drain to winterize etc... So anode rod can be overlooked.


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Old 07-30-2016, 12:03 PM   #12
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I know it maybe over kill, but each time I winterize my water tank, I buy a new anode rod and put it in the next time I de-winterize. The anode rod isn't very corroded, but I don't want those deposits in my tank. The anode rods aren't that expensive.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:35 AM   #13
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I know it maybe over kill, but each time I winterize my water tank, I buy a new anode rod and put it in the next time I de-winterize. The anode rod isn't very corroded, but I don't want those deposits in my tank. The anode rods aren't that expensive.
Replacing the anode rod more often has nothing to do with the deposits that arise from its "use". If you are replacing anode rods that look almost new, it means that you are using water with low mineral content.

My approach is to drain and flush the hot water tank every time the rig goes into storage. This minimizes deposits from the sacrificial rod going into the hot water line and keeps the rod/drain plug threads from rusting to the mating threads of the tank, making it difficult to remove.

Phil
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:57 AM   #14
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Someone asked me if I had a Suburban or Atwood water heater because I should change my Anode Rod since it’s been 2 years. I looked all over the water heater and couldn’t find anywhere where it says it’s Suburban or Atwood? I do not have any manuals, so 2 questions:
1. Does it make any difference what brand I have and just change with the standard anode rod like Camco’s?
2. Does anyone know what brand I have…it’s a 2015 Georgetown 270s?
Thanks for any help.
Don't know if the OP ever figured out for sure he had a Suburban water heater (or even if it could had been an on demand type), but passing on this information that bclemens posted, that although applying to Class C's I would assume is relevant to all makes/models RV's.

He said one of the fastest ways to identify between a Suburban and Atwood brand is to look at the latch holding the water heaters outside cover/access door in place. As long as it's still the factory installed latch, then if it's plastic it's a Suburban........ and if it's metal, it's an Atwood.

After I learned this, I do remember walking around various RV's at a local RV show we had, and verifying this with all kind of different brands/makes/models. It was just like he said at that time.

I guess those reading this can check their RV's to verify if this is correct.

Atwood metal





Suburban plastic

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Old 07-31-2016, 12:00 PM   #15
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I have a 2014 Georgetown with a suburban water and it has a metal latch tab.
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:49 PM   #16
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Easier identification.....

Atwoods have their grill for propane exhaust to the left of the latch, and ONLY Atwoods have a dark portal for viewing the propane flame.

Suburbans have the grill to the right of the latch and NO viewing portal.
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Old 07-31-2016, 02:51 PM   #17
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If you have the water heater with the grill on the right of the lock and the vent on the left of the lock, then you have the SUBURBAN water heater.

Here is the video on how you change the anode rod.

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Old 07-31-2016, 07:01 PM   #18
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Thanks Tamdle that answer's my original question.
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:07 PM   #19
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Thanks Tamdle that answer's my original question.
You are very welcome.

And here is the anode rod for that water heater... you could choose the length and the anode rod material as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11563-A...+water+heaters
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