What do you use for leveling?

[Sandy and Shirley]

We all get into campsites that are not level.

Some sites are so out of level that using the jacks alone would raise the tires off the ground, a very bad thing to do!


Our Georgetown is rated at 24,000 lbs., sitting on 6 tires, is an average of 4,000 lbs. per tire.

There are 4 jacks which is an average of 6,000 lbs. per jack.

The best “standard” leveling blocks we could find were the Camco 44505’s which are rated at only 3,000 lbs. per block and they cost about $3 per block on sale.

The only “special” ones we found are called “Utility Blocks” but it looks like they cost about $20 each on Amazon, but they do not interlock as well and do not have optional wheel chocks or special top plates to make a flat surface for the tires..

What does everyone use for leveling?

[Mars]

I always keep a stack of 2X10X16 PT wood in the bed of the truck. I had a TH for several years and rarely ever found a level site when dry camping. A couple under a tire or two and a couple under the jacks for the soft ground. TH was over 13,000 when loaded up for a long weekend.

[Wa11y757]

We use the Anderson one. It's good for 4 inches. Super easy too. Although I don't remember the weight cap on them.


Now I'm going back to looking for my 10mm wrench! 2016 Wildwood 27RKSS
2005 F250 PSD

[Sandy and Shirley]

Originally Posted by Wa11y757

We use the Anderson one. It's good for 4 inches. Super easy too. Although I don't remember the weight cap on them.


Now I'm going back to looking for my 10mm wrench! 2016 Wildwood 27RKSS
2005 F250 PSD

We used the Anderson Levelers with our 5th wheel and they did work great when you have two people to do the leveling. Since we only had to level the double rear axles on the 5er we knew which side needed to be higher and that was that.

Not that easy with the Motor Home. My driveway for example is sloped for proper water run off so all 4 corners are different. The right front is flat on the black top. The left front requires one 2 x 10. The right rear needs two 2 x 10s and we had to build a special leveling ramp for the left rear, three 4 x 6s on their sides bolted together with one 2 x 10 on top of that and another 4 x 6 at the end as a stop block. No way to use the Anderson’s with 4 different wheel requirements

[dirkpitt]

I usually keep some 2x8s on hand. I have also seen guys dig on the opposite side to level things out

[Stevekaz99]

Originally Posted by Sandy and Shirley

We used the Anderson Levelers with our 5th wheel and they did work great when you have two people to do the leveling. Since we only had to level the double rear axles on the 5er we knew which side needed to be higher and that was that.

Not that easy with the Motor Home. My driveway for example is sloped for proper water run off so all 4 corners are different. The right front is flat on the black top. The left front requires one 2 x 10. The right rear needs two 2 x 10s and we had to build a special leveling ramp for the left rear, three 4 x 6s on their sides bolted together with one 2 x 10 on top of that and another 4 x 6 at the end as a stop block. No way to use the Anderson’s with 4 different wheel requirements

Do you use one for each axle on the 5er?

[DrLewie]

I carry both Camco blocks and a stack of 2"x 8" x 12" boards, and usie them based on circumstances.. I've been in some campsites that look impossible but have always managed to get the fiver levelled. (Sometimes after an hour of cursing.) I wouldn't worry too much about weight ratings on the blocks. I've never seen them get squashed. Decent chocks are a must for a towable and that's user's choice.

[NDcamperdude]

I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 4'x6'x3/4" rubber mat that can be used in horse stalls or nearly anywhere you need. I cut the mat into strips about 2 inches wider than my RV tires and long enough so both wheels could be driven onto the piece (I think I cut them 8"x 24" each). That gave me 18 pieces. They are light but very heavy duty and work great. I just stack them as high as I need to on the side of the camper that is low and pull the camper forward onto the mats. I don't think I've ever needed to use more than three mats on a side at any site. The cost for the whole mat was $40.00. That is far less expensive than buying custom made levelers and I think has far more potential uses.

[Stevekaz99]

Originally Posted by NDcamperdude

I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 4'x6'x3/4" rubber mat that can be used in horse stalls or nearly anywhere you need. I cut the mat into strips about 2 inches wider than my RV tires and long enough so both wheels could be driven onto the piece (I think I cut them 8"x 24" each). That gave me 18 pieces. They are light but very heavy duty and work great. I just stack them as high as I need to on the side of the camper that is low and pull the camper forward onto the mats. I don't think I've ever needed to use more than three mats on a side at any site. The cost for the whole mat was $40.00. That is far less expensive than buying custom made levelers and I think has far more potential uses.

This is a great idea. Would be cool to see a photo someday. This is the link maybe at Tractor Supply. Thanks again. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...ck-4-ft-x-6-ft

[CaptnJohn]

I keep a 2X8X12 for under each leg. Then add the plastic blocks to keep the leg travel to 6" - 8". Hit the auto level on the Lippert 4 point Ground Control 3 and connect the water. By the time the hose is connected all is level. I keep 20 blocks available but rarely use more than 10.

[Wilco]

For my dual axle trailers, I use PT 2x8s cut to 4', 5', 6' & 7'. That will give up to 6" of lift to level the trailer. I stagger them as I stack them so they are easier to drive the trailer wheels up them. I use a 4' level to determine how many boards I will need. (Place the level on the floor and double the distance it takes to show level. Example; if you have to lift on end 3/4" to show level, place one board under the wheels on that side of the trailer to level the trailer.) In rainy weather or if I am on soft ground, I will place an extra board under both sets of wheels to prevent them from sinking into the ground.

[mkekflyers]

Just ran out to Menards because they have a "left over" lumber spot in the lumber area. Picked up some 2 X 10 X 36" - just what was there for a whole $1.69 ea. Cut them into 10" sections. Picked up some 3/8" nylon cord from local Harbor Freight for a buck. Cut the cord about a foot long, stapled it on the flat surface of one 2 X 10 X 10, put another 2 X 10 X 10 on top & put 4 drywall screws in square pattern...walla...pads for under the jack pads. Nylon is a loop on one side, works like a handle...easy, cheap, replace anytime they get messed up...

[n-e-d]

I generally level the coach with Camco tri level ramps,rated at 3500#. Ialso carry 2x10s and plywood if needed

[Dodaman]

Mine is easy. Single axle pup. A ball leveler is all I need. I have seen several class A with a front wheel way off the ground. Looks scary.

[Sandy and Shirley]

Originally Posted by Stevekaz99

Do you use one for each axle on the 5er?

Yes we did and it worked great, but as said you need two people to do it.

Person two puts the levelers in front of the wheels, holds the level on the side of the 5er as the driver inches forward. Hand signals tell the driver when to stop, then person two places the chocks behind the levelers CAREFULLY.

Let off the brake, double check the level and if it does not settle back down too far you are done. If not inch forward again and shove the chocks in harder, sometimes with a rubber hammer.

[twenty4pack]

Hi,

That's a great question, and maybe this a good place for me to inject a leveling problem I had with my TT at a local state Park: The site was nicely level left to right, but not front to back. No matter where I put the trailer, the hitch jack was almost fully extended - even with two 4x4s and a 2x8 base. There seemed to be no option but to accept things as they were, so my wife and I cautiously moved around inside, hoping the wheel chocks would hold. Not a comfortable stay...

The park is beautiful, but I don't think we'll be staying there again because it looks like most sites are sloped front to back.

I was thinking next time maybe we could try a couple of scissor jacks on the front of the frame instead of putting the whole load on that single point. Trouble is, we'd still have to bring the jacks up to the frame.

Anyone out there have another suggestion? (Thanks)

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Sandy and Shirley

Yes we did and it worked great, but as said you need two people to do it.

Person two puts the levelers in front of the wheels, holds the level on the side of the 5er as the driver inches forward. Hand signals tell the driver when to stop, then person two places the chocks behind the levelers CAREFULLY.

Let off the brake, double check the level and if it does not settle back down too far you are done. If not inch forward again and shove the chocks in harder, sometimes with a rubber hammer.

I use the andersen leverlers also being a one man show i've never had problem setting them up .since i double stick taped a nice little bubble level on the front of my TH i can see it when pulling fwd . no need for two people to do it . holding a level on the unit and pulling it fwd seems awkward to say the least . have never needed more then the 4" they provide but if i ever do then i've got 2-2x6x6' that give me another 3" but never needed them

[chrisbailey13]

Originally Posted by Sandy and Shirley

We all get into campsites that are not level.

Some sites are so out of level that using the jacks alone would raise the tires off the ground, a very bad thing to do!


Our Georgetown is rated at 24,000 lbs., sitting on 6 tires, is an average of 4,000 lbs. per tire.

There are 4 jacks which is an average of 6,000 lbs. per jack.

The best “standard” leveling blocks we could find were the Camco 44505’s which are rated at only 3,000 lbs. per block and they cost about $3 per block on sale.

The only “special” ones we found are called “Utility Blocks” but it looks like they cost about $20 each on Amazon, but they do not interlock as well and do not have optional wheel chocks or special top plates to make a flat surface for the tires..

What does everyone use for leveling?

When you say tires are raised off the ground are you referring to the front or rear tires.
I have been at sites that required the front tires to come off the ground in our Georgetown and haven't had any problems with stability. I typically will try to manually level the RV by raising the front first and only lowering the rear levels so they touch the ground for "stability" only.
Usually when the front wheels come off the ground it is because the auto leveler lowers the rear stabilizers first which causes the fronts to raise.
I have also been in sites where the rear was lower than the front. in those cases, again, I manually level, but I also put wheel chocks under the front tires to help keep the coach from rolling backward because I have taken SOME of the weight off the rear wheels and the park brake. BUT I am careful not to let the REAR wheels to ever leave the ground when leveling.

Finally, I have also seen people use these to help support the wheels when the angle is too steep.



One final thought (Feel free to dispute) Our level systems in Georgtowns will tell you when the angle of the site is too steep for the levels to support the coach, that along whit a little creativity should take some of the worry out of leveling the MH.

[RVnut]

we always keep the rear tires on the ground but dont worry about the front as long as it levels out..We just make sure the emergency brake will keep the MH from shifting.. Once the jacks start raising the front the wheels are doing nothing to support the vehicle anyway..

[wfwilson]

This question is for NDCamperdude. The Horse stall mats is a great idea I have them under my deck (from Tractor Supply) and with the enclosed deck they are great. Question I have not tried to cut them. What did you use to cut them Circular saw or what?
Thanks
Wayne