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08-21-2017, 05:03 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Willis, TX
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimF
An excellent idea if the mold and mildew is on the vinyl side of the ceiling, most likely it is a bleed through, from the back of the vinyl, which means the sponge is soaking wet and the vinyl must be removed to dry it. IMHO.
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Thank Jim for the info.
So, sound like the cost is for the vinyl material, not the complete panel, right?
For me, I have to remove the front overhead bunk, the side and front cabinets... it would be a major job.
Tam Le
__________________
Tam & Ha from Willis, TX
2016 Georgetown XL 352QS
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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08-21-2017, 05:08 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Willis, TX
Posts: 548
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I just have a chance to go up the roof and inspect the sealant. All sealant from the roof side appeared to be good since the coach is only 1 year old. The nearest possible leak is the front air conditioning.
If the air conditioning leak, it would go straight down and the ceiling panel at the air conditioning unit must be stained as well. However, the ceiling panel at the air conditioning unit does not stain, the adjacent panel and the panel at the front of the RV is stained. I could not figure out what would cause that.
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Tam & Ha from Willis, TX
2016 Georgetown XL 352QS
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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08-21-2017, 07:41 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 102
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Had same problem, had a roof leak, 2000.00 to fix
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08-22-2017, 07:57 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamdle
I just have a chance to go up the roof and inspect the sealant. All sealant from the roof side appeared to be good since the coach is only 1 year old. The nearest possible leak is the front air conditioning.
If the air conditioning leak, it would go straight down and the ceiling panel at the air conditioning unit must be stained as well. However, the ceiling panel at the air conditioning unit does not stain, the adjacent panel and the panel at the front of the RV is stained. I could not figure out what would cause that.
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Find the leak in our case was sorta the same. Found the so called sealant while looking good was actually not bonding to the fiberglass roof I removed it and found that the factory had covered a 1 "X1" hole. The sealant failed at the water poured in. Also, I pulled the track down each side of the roof, the one with many screws at the edge of the roof one. Cleaned it all up layer down sealant tape then reinstalled the tracks using stainless steel screws and more sealant. And yes, it's a monster job. We had a lot of cabinets to remove, etc. took us about 2 weeks working every day on it. Good luck.
__________________
JimF, CWO, US Army Ret, 100% DAV
2011 Georgetown 378TS
2008 Dodge Caliber Toad
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08-22-2017, 12:06 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,740
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Pull one of the seem strips down near the stain. Then pull the ceiling liner down in that area and reach in to see if there is water soaking the foam behind the vinyl. If so, you can better trace the moisture to the source. When checking the sealant, I found a visual check is not enough. Press lightly on the seams against the rail. Take a finger and move upward against the edge of the Dicor. I found some that looked good and when I put pressure on it, I found it was not even adhering to the roof. If you have vent covers, don't forget to remove them (refrigerator vent also) and check the sealant around those. It literally only takes a pinhole. I also double sealed my marker lights, as the factory just seemed to push them in half way and that was it. Also, check for cracks near the gutter spouts. Once water gets in it can travel quite a distance. The soft ceil has the advantage of being pulled open at the seams. The hard panel ceiling seems to make tracing a leak more difficult. I still don't know which is best. I heard FR is no longer using the soft ceiling. I don't know why.
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