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11-01-2009, 09:49 PM
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#21
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RV Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 34
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Just to clarify; I am well aware of the fact that I do not NEED a 3kW inverter. I was interested in the RS3000 primarily due to the fact that I could wire it inline for 50A service. I was not aware that I could potentially be lucky enough to place an inverter inline in a single circuit powering the TV's, DVD, satellite, and house outlets. If I were fortunate enough to have a wiring diagram for my coach, I could have seen how one could install a smaller inverter inline for a single circuit.
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11-01-2009, 09:52 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TulsaSteve
AMEN.. People do overkill instead of doing math. Some folks do need the 3000W, but most don't. I've got a degree in Electrical Eng. so I'm pretty good with the math and know how to chase them there electrons purty well.
Most of the 32" LCD TVs draw around ~100W continuous. So if you've got more than 10 32" LCDs in your RV, you might want to use the 1800W unit.
Now if you want to do some MIG welding at 3AM and you happen to be dry camping or the campground is having a blackout AND it's during quiet hours, I would recommend the 3000W inverter, a trailer with a few dozen 6V batteries and a Power MIG 140C from Lincoln.
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Us Jeepers just do our camp welding with a special alternator and an on-board welder. They even have a portable wire feed welder now.
You are so correct though. It wasn't so long ago that many motorhomes came with a 3.0kw or 3.5kw generator and that runs the air conditioning! Why on earth have an inverter that size unless you are as you put it, pulling a trailer full of batteries to run it.
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11-01-2009, 09:58 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenCrabtree
Just to clarify; I am well aware of the fact that I do not NEED a 3kW inverter. I was interested in the RS3000 primarily due to the fact that I could wire it inline for 50A service. I was not aware that I could potentially be lucky enough to place an inverter inline in a single circuit powering the TV's, DVD, satellite, and house outlets. If I were fortunate enough to have a wiring diagram for my coach, I could have seen how one could install a smaller inverter inline for a single circuit.
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I'm sure a lot of people don't know this is an option but there is a way to do about anything I have found out. You don't need a wiring diagram either. If you have a cursory knowledge of household wiring then it is actually easy (I have wired both my own houses I have built).
I looked around online for some pics. of the inside of your 379 but didn't get lucky enough to find where your AC panel might be, nice rig though. Did you manage to find it?
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11-01-2009, 11:00 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenCrabtree
Just to clarify; I am well aware of the fact that I do not NEED a 3kW inverter. I was interested in the RS3000 primarily due to the fact that I could wire it inline for 50A service. I was not aware that I could potentially be lucky enough to place an inverter inline in a single circuit powering the TV's, DVD, satellite, and house outlets. If I were fortunate enough to have a wiring diagram for my coach, I could have seen how one could install a smaller inverter inline for a single circuit.
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I meant no offense. Just the fact that your here and asking questions puts you way above the average bear. For me it's a puzzle with the goal of maximizing the capabilities of my rig and do it for the minimum work and cost.
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11-02-2009, 11:10 AM
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#25
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RV Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 34
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I just got off the phone with Parallax and confirmed that the model 7465 Converter/Charger that came with my 2010 Georgetown is a fixed voltage charger. It does not even come with a "T" option on this size of converter. Looks like I should look at getting an Inverter/Charger and disconnect the battery from my existing converter.
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11-02-2009, 11:13 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenCrabtree
I just got off the phone with Parallax and confirmed that the model 7465 Converter/Charger that came with my 2010 Georgetown is a fixed voltage charger. It does not even come with a "T" option on this size of converter. Looks like I should look at getting an Inverter/Charger and disconnect the battery from my existing converter.
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Probably the best way to go if you are going to replace the charger.
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11-02-2009, 03:40 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenCrabtree
I just got off the phone with Parallax and confirmed that the model 7465 Converter/Charger that came with my 2010 Georgetown is a fixed voltage charger. It does not even come with a "T" option on this size of converter. Looks like I should look at getting an Inverter/Charger and disconnect the battery from my existing converter.
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Not even the timer? DANG... Now I'm rethinking my plan for the ProSine 1000.
AllenCrabtree - Thanks for the heads up! Much appreciated.
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11-02-2009, 05:07 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 322
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That Parallax converter will cook the batteries if left plugged in all the time. I can't believe they didn't supply a multi-stage one
__________________
Ron Hanson
2009 Georgetown 350TS (bunks)
400W solar, 440AH 6V GC2
2009 Ford Edge AWD Ltd towed
2011 Honda Fit Sport towed
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11-02-2009, 08:29 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronhanson
That Parallax converter will cook the batteries if left plugged in all the time. I can't believe they didn't supply a multi-stage one
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I would be TICKED if my batteries were cooked. NOTHING in the manuals that came with my rig indicated this. Lucky for me the longest I've left it plugged in is probably 2 weeks.
Now I'm looking at $1000+ that I didn't plan to spend. Not sure what other choice there is.
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11-02-2009, 08:55 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TulsaSteve
I would be TICKED if my batteries were cooked. NOTHING in the manuals that came with my rig indicated this. Lucky for me the longest I've left it plugged in is probably 2 weeks.
Now I'm looking at $1000+ that I didn't plan to spend. Not sure what other choice there is.
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Steve, CW has 3 stage converter/chargers for around $300. Replace the charger and procede with the Prosine1000 inverter.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ge-wizard/6088
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11-02-2009, 10:15 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWJeeper
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That may be the ticket. I can get the 70AMP 9200 (5 more amps than the Parallax) for $291 and the Prosine 1000 for $780. So $1070 vs. $1560 for the Prosine2000 (which includes a 3 stage charger).
Saves $500 and should be an easier/cleaner install since I can swap the 9200 with the Parallax and then mount the ProSine near the batteries.
Anyone want to buy a slightly used Parallax? I guarantee that it will FULLY charge your batteries!!
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11-02-2009, 10:46 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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The plot thickens... At the link below Parallax answers these questions in their FAQ..
"Can I leave my Parallax converter system constantly connected to 120VAC power? Will this damage my batteries?"
"My friend has a "smart charge controller" that plugs into his converter system. Why hasn't Parallax offered a "smart" charger option for my unit."
http://www.parallaxpower.com/ESM%20f...20VAC%20power?
So here is where I'm at on this topic...
- I need no more than 1000W from an inverter. ProSine1000 seems to be the best option.
- I don't plug my RV while in storage, so I've got no risk with the Parallax cooking them
- Last winter I invested in Battery Brains for both coach cells and the chassis battery to cut off the batteries when the voltage drops too low.
- After reading the FAQ, I'm thinking that Forest River didn't provide crap, but also failed to explain the downside of leaving the rig plugged in during storage.
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11-02-2009, 10:56 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TulsaSteve
The plot thickens... At the link below Parallax answers these questions in their FAQ..
"Can I leave my Parallax converter system constantly connected to 120VAC power? Will this damage my batteries?"
"My friend has a "smart charge controller" that plugs into his converter system. Why hasn't Parallax offered a "smart" charger option for my unit."
http://www.parallaxpower.com/ESM%20f...20VAC%20power?
So here is where I'm at on this topic...
- I need no more than 1000W from an inverter. ProSine1000 seems to be the best option.
- I don't plug my RV while in storage, so I've got no risk with the Parallax cooking them
- Last winter I invested in Battery Brains for both coach cells and the chassis battery to cut off the batteries when the voltage drops too low.
- After reading the FAQ, I'm thinking that Forest River didn't provide crap, but also failed to explain the downside of leaving the rig plugged in during storage.
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Steve I'm with ya. I was told flat out by several (well meaning) individuals on this site a year ago when I bought my rig that it came with a 3-stage charger. I didn't have any reason to doubt them. Glad I have found out otherwise. I do keep a close eye on my batteries though so not a problem yet but I am now looking into changing out the converter/charger. Heck my bass boat came with a much better on-board charger than my motorhome!
Here is what I am considering and it should be a real easy swap out:
http://www.bestconverter.com/70-Amp-...ger_p_172.html
Looks like a winter project for me...
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11-02-2009, 11:33 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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After reading the FAQ from Parallax the water becomes muddier. I see their point. I wonder if the charge leads from the existing converter can be disconnected. Then it would be a matter of buying a good 3-stage, 2-bank battery charger like my boat has. It can be left plugged in with no damage to the batteries, it charges 2 banks at once individually (acts just like having 2 separate battery chargers connected to the house bank and the starting battery) and is sealed so that water can't hurt it. Since it plugs into 110V it could be mounted in one of the compartments that has a 110v outlet inside it and the charge leads run to the batteries.
I'm not liking much of any of this charging technology that the RV industry is using now that I do more research on it. Cost of a charger like I have on the boat is about equivalent to a whole new converter/charger.
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11-03-2009, 08:44 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWJeeper
After reading the FAQ from Parallax the water becomes muddier. I see their point. I wonder if the charge leads from the existing converter can be disconnected. Then it would be a matter of buying a good 3-stage, 2-bank battery charger like my boat has. It can be left plugged in with no damage to the batteries, it charges 2 banks at once individually (acts just like having 2 separate battery chargers connected to the house bank and the starting battery) and is sealed so that water can't hurt it. Since it plugs into 110V it could be mounted in one of the compartments that has a 110v outlet inside it and the charge leads run to the batteries.
I'm not liking much of any of this charging technology that the RV industry is using now that I do more research on it. Cost of a charger like I have on the boat is about equivalent to a whole new converter/charger.
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Definitely frustrating... Why not leave everything as is and buy a cheap timer to store the RV? Plug the RV in for a few days to make sure the cells are 100% full then put a timer on to give it juice for maybe 4 hours a day?
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11-03-2009, 11:01 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TulsaSteve
Definitely frustrating... Why not leave everything as is and buy a cheap timer to store the RV? Plug the RV in for a few days to make sure the cells are 100% full then put a timer on to give it juice for maybe 4 hours a day?
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That's a great idea for those that don't need to keep their rigs plugged in when in storage but we keep our refrigerator going all the time on electric to store cold drinks and make ice and we like to keep the fireplace heater going when the temps drop really low in the winter. As I haven't had much problem with this setup in the first year I will probably just keep a good eye on the water levels in the batteries and stay with what I have.
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11-03-2009, 05:12 PM
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#37
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RV Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 34
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I am glad to hear that I am not the only one confused... I store my RV inside a building and keep it plugged up all the time. I too was surprised to find out that my 2010 Georgetown has a fixed voltage charger. Now I am concerned that I am damaging my batteries. That is why I wanted to sort all of this out BEFORE I upgrade my battery bank. In the meantime, I will just turn off my battery disconnect to isolate my coach batteries. Clearly I need an Inverter/Charger as opposed to simply an inverter. When I contacted CW about installing an RS3000, they were not even clear on what the $391 install fee covers.
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