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07-26-2017, 04:42 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
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prior private owner does not remember. Own RV for short time.
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07-26-2017, 04:44 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwalk44
prior private owner does not remember. Own RV for short time.
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About the owners manual-- do you have one? There's a lot of good info in there.
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07-26-2017, 04:47 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
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Yes, we have owner's manual put it doesnot say much about this subject. I'll look again..
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07-26-2017, 04:50 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Look for winterizing and dewinterizing
On page 49 of the genetic manual you'll find a view of the bypass valves
Basically, all three valves should be horizontal.
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07-26-2017, 05:05 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Is your water heater both electric and lp? You need to make sure the tank is full before turning on the electric heater. Very important!!!
If it's only lp gas not so pimportant
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07-26-2017, 05:16 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Have you found the pump compartment yet? It's a long/narrow compartment on the right side and pretty far back. It may have a black cover over it which I had removed as soon as I found it! Those two little holes are extremely difficult to work with!
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07-26-2017, 05:52 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
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Thank you - all!
What we learned today: 1) be patient 2) don't be afraid to ask 3) resolution: flush lines to remove pink substance, open valves located under/behind heater, turn on pump to get fresh water to heater; open sink(s)/shower tap lines to release air.
Took us all day, but it was worth the experience.
final question: Can you run water constantly as needed (pump and heater in "on" position) while driving?
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07-26-2017, 05:55 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Well, not constantly. Just when you use a faucet shower toilet etc. Anything that uses water. The pump will turn on automatically if the switch is on at the panel.
And off when you close the faucet.
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07-26-2017, 06:04 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
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so... we flipped the switch for water heater on the control panel while running the generator. we checked the heater for water (opened valve) and also saw water that had escaped from overflow. I assume we ran off LP since we didn't have electrical line connected to home. Are we ok regarding "important" concern about making sure tank is full?
Again - thanks for you help
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07-26-2017, 06:08 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwalk44
so... we flipped the switch for water heater on the control panel while running the generator. we checked the heater for water (opened valve) and also saw water that had escaped from overflow. I assume we ran off LP since we didn't have electrical line connected to home. Are we ok regarding "important" concern about making sure tank is full?
Again - thanks for you help
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until you want to use electric to heat. Unless you're boondocking you won't use the fresh water tank much. Use city water when you're in a campground with full hookups. You'll also want to use electricity if available for your hot water heater to save your gas.
Shoot, i didn't ask the questions i wanted to: do you have hot water now? About the water escaping from overflow -- once your fresh water tank is full you should turn off the fresh water tank fill. And maybe use city water when available at cg or home.
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07-27-2017, 02:20 PM
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#31
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Collierville, TN
Posts: 586
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FYI, all three valves should not be open. There should be a valve going into the hot water heater and a valve going out of the hot water heater. These both should be open when using hot water heater and closed when winterizing. The 3rd valve should be in the middle of these two and is the bypass valve. This valve should be open when winterizing so pink stuff can circulate the entire water system lines. It should be closed when using hot water heater, if open cold water will mix with hot and you will not have the hot water you want. You probably know how I know this. Good Luck!
__________________
Rudy - 10 year old long haired dachshund, RIP
2011 Georgetown 350TS
2013 Chevrolet Equinox toad
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07-27-2017, 02:23 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RudysWorld
FYI, all three valves should not be open. There should be a valve going into the hot water heater and a valve going out of the hot water heater. These both should be open when using hot water heater and closed when winterizing. The 3rd valve should be in the middle of these two and is the bypass valve. This valve should be open when winterizing so pink stuff can circulate the entire water system lines. It should be closed when using hot water heater, if open cold water will mix with hot and you will not have the hot water you want. You probably know how I know this. Good Luck!
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In other words, all three must be horizontal just like I said
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07-27-2017, 03:14 PM
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#33
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 33
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Novakrv is right. Look for a screw cover underneath. It's in there
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07-27-2017, 07:56 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 101
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Turning the blue/cold and the red/hot then the valve in the middle is the bypass. The water enters cold and first fills the hot water bottle. Do not put anti freeze in the hot water bottle when you re winterize.
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07-28-2017, 06:27 AM
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#35
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Team Bleu
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 99
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Ours is up under the body behind the water heater. Round cover, three valves. I'm the one always under the there turning them, two cold, one hot i believe.
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07-28-2017, 07:11 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBsRedVett
Ours is up under the body behind the water heater. Round cover, three valves. I'm the one always under the there turning them, two cold, one hot i believe.
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One cold (blue) one hot (red) and one bypass vertical blue
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07-28-2017, 07:46 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Dacula, Georgia
Posts: 1,283
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Just some "unsolicited" friendly advice. Had 3 rv's; none were/are motorhomes BUT; BUT; NOW, not late September in Michigan, is the time to LEARN not only to WINTERIZE but EMERGENCY RETRACTION OF JACKS; SLIDES AND AWNINGS. Doing research on these things in freezing cold, teeth chattering, cussing, NOT GOOD.
As you learn each CRITICAL need; DOCUMENT IT IN A REFERRAL NOTEBOOK; WINTER WILL BE HERE BEFORE YOU CAN BLINK.
Reading "manuals" in snow is a weee bit frustrating. And for goodness sake; ensure you have the CORRECT FITTING TOOLS for each job. [emoji23] Research this forum for great actual experience and TRY IT. This is a learning experience for all of us regardless of type of RV. Just say'n; from real time frustrated experiences.
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