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04-08-2013, 01:36 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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I would say it depends on how you apply the wax. If using a hand applicator I would always avoid the stickers. When I was using the buffer yesterday it was impossible to avoid the stickers. I later went back over the stickers with 303 Protectant just to remove the wax I got on them since they looked crappy.
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04-08-2013, 02:28 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 9
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I am thinking about using a polymer on my Forrest River. First I'll probably use 3-M Finesse-It-II to take off oxidation then use a product called, Leverage. Leverage is a marine product I have used for about 5 years on my boat. It is a wipe on, wipe off. Shines well & lasts all season. After using Leverage, when you wash your RV, use no soap, it's not necessary and will kill the polymer.
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04-08-2013, 04:34 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western New York State
Posts: 1,943
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Is Leverage similar to Rejex? Also, is it only available at marinas and boating stores? Finally, cost please.
__________________
sherman12 and The Fabulous Miss Barb
2014 SportsCoach Cross Country 360DL DP
Former 2011 Georgetown 330TS
Kia Sportage on MasterTow Dolly
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04-08-2013, 05:10 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherman12
Is Leverage similar to Rejex? Also, is it only available at marinas and boating stores? Finally, cost please.
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I am interested too.
__________________
2015 GMC Denali HD Z71 4X4 - D/A
2004.5 Chevy D/A
2013 Cedar Creek 34rlsa
2003 Four Winns Funship 214 Deckboat - Hawaiian Breeze
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04-08-2013, 05:27 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 9
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Rejex seems to be a polymer also. May want to check this website-
RejeX: Nothing Sticks but the Shine!
As to the cost of Leverage, 20.00 + bucks, one bottle will do my 29 ft. boat two times. For my part the ease of applicatiion makes it cheap. It will not make the surface shine, you need to have it shiny when you apply, it is a protectant, not a wax. There are some others out there, Buff Magic & Pro Polish. Whatever you do, don't use PoliGlow. It is an acrylic ploymer, glorified floor wax, it will look good for about a year, then it will turn yellow & start scaling. Not fun to remove. Just my .02 cents. Been there, done that!
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04-09-2013, 03:23 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 903
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Wondering is anyone can clarify for me:
I bought some LA's Totally Awesome cleaner recently upon the recommendation of this forum. Is it compatible with the Mothers or Meguiars or do I need to use their cleaning products first? Maybe it doesn't matter at all as long as you get the exterior cleaned and rinsed?
Am confused about the use of Mothers cleaner and glaze product. Is the really part of a 3 step process (part 2)? Their California Gold step 1 is a wax. Step 2 is the cleaner/glaze. Step 3 is the Brazilian Carnauba wax. Do I really need the step 1? Can I use the cleaner/glaze product and then their Carnauba wax?
What about Mothers marine synthetic wax? Can I clean with the Totally awesome and go straight to Mothers marine wax? If I use this stuff, do I really need to clean the wax off before I re-wax?
And can't seem to find out how much wax to buy. Would I need 2 or 3 16 oz. bottles of spray wax?
My arms are aching already just thinking about this project.
__________________
Gil & Deb & Dougal the Springer Spaniel
Langley, BC
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04-09-2013, 04:09 PM
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#27
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Newbie.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 109
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The totally awesome cleaner had very fine abrasives in it, and very little wax. Great for removing a winter's worth of oxidation. Once that is buffed off, the trailer is ready for either a wax, or a sealer then a wax.
The cleaner is important because if you wax over an oxidized surface, it will remain so.
The beauty of the cleaner is that you don't have to do it every time. Just once a year. After that you can simply wax after sponge washing or glaze then wax.
Mother's labels change year to year (marketing) but step one is always a cleaner (white liquid). Step 2 is labelled as a glaze or a sealant (yellow liquid) and step 3 is always pure carnauba. (Yellow gold liquid)
Example. For my truck I just did the mothers 3 step process with a second coat of carnauba for good measure. For my new 5 er, ill skip the cleaning step , go straight to glaze/sealant, then substitute a marine fiberglass wax with synthetics or Teflon in it instead of the carnauba. Will last longer. Would like to do it just once a season.
Next season when it's a year old, ill add the cleaning step.
__________________
2013 344 QBOK
2011 F250 4x4 Supercrew Diesel
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04-09-2013, 04:13 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 9
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I think Awesome would be fine to wash with, I think it will srtip any old wax off and let you start fresh.
I would be sure to rinse well, to make sure there is no residue left. I would think Mothers would be a good choice. I think any marine wax will give good service.
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04-09-2013, 04:14 PM
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#29
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Newbie.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 109
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Also that Mothers Marine synthetic wax is fantastic
Tried to find some this week but no luck. Stores here just starting to out out spring/summer products.
__________________
2013 344 QBOK
2011 F250 4x4 Supercrew Diesel
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04-09-2013, 04:16 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 9
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What Monte said about the cleaner +1.
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04-09-2013, 05:24 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 520
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"....The totally awesome cleaner had very fine abrasives in it, and very little wax. Great for removing a winter's worth of oxidation....." say again?
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04-09-2013, 05:35 PM
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#32
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Newbie.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 109
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Sorry. Myredracer's post about a product he purchased called "LA's totally awesome cleaner" - I'm assuming (i've never seen it) that it is a combination cleaner/wax. Great products BUT they tend to have less wax/synthetic binding compounds than straight finishing wax/synthetic polymer products alone. If you use just that product , it will clean and put a shine on, just not as long a lasting one.
Great for people with limited time, etc. not everyone has time, patience to spend an entire day to shine their camper.
__________________
2013 344 QBOK
2011 F250 4x4 Supercrew Diesel
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04-09-2013, 06:02 PM
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#33
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 77
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Not to anymore, but, most of the talk here has been for the gel coat or fiberglass models. Will all this stuff perform the same on aluminum or should i use something different?
__________________
Stan, Wanda, Sheray, Alex, Nicky, and Macky(the Chorky).
2013 Prime Time Avenger 33BHS
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04-10-2013, 02:06 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 520
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Think more along the lines of Simple Green.......water soluble degreaser, inexpensive, effective.
Quote:
Originally Posted by monte0999
Sorry. Myredracer's post about a product he purchased called "LA's totally awesome cleaner" - I'm assuming (i've never seen it) that it is a combination cleaner/wax. Great products BUT they tend to have less wax/synthetic binding compounds than straight finishing wax/synthetic polymer products alone. If you use just that product , it will clean and put a shine on, just not as long a lasting one.
Great for people with limited time, etc. not everyone has time, patience to spend an entire day to shine their camper.
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04-10-2013, 03:46 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 903
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I couldn't find Mothers marine wax in a store anywhere so I ended up buying it on Amazon. Got two 16 oz. bottles for $13.20 each which would probably be a lot less than if a store anyway. Now I can put off the cleaning & wax job for another week while I wait for it to arrive in the mail.
Still unclear as to whether or not it's okay to put the marine wax over decals and what harm it may cause.
__________________
Gil & Deb & Dougal the Springer Spaniel
Langley, BC
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04-10-2013, 07:24 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western New York State
Posts: 1,943
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How can one even avoid the decals the way they are applied on todays rv's. From my boating days in the 80's to my second MH today what ever I was using to wax or shine the vehicle I went right over any and all decals. They need UV protection and the like just like the rest of the rig.
__________________
sherman12 and The Fabulous Miss Barb
2014 SportsCoach Cross Country 360DL DP
Former 2011 Georgetown 330TS
Kia Sportage on MasterTow Dolly
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04-10-2013, 07:41 AM
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#37
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Newbie.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 109
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Agreed. I can't see any harm to decals.
Did three step process to our 2011 spree TT with no issues.
__________________
2013 344 QBOK
2011 F250 4x4 Supercrew Diesel
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04-10-2013, 10:42 AM
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#38
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rockland, Ontario
Posts: 57
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Iggy, is the marine wax easy to buff?
__________________
2007 Georgetown 378
2011 Cadillac SRX toad
Only downside to travelling is missing the grandkids!
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04-11-2013, 07:55 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wherever we are parked!
Posts: 424
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Just a thought here....are we mixing apples and oranges? There is a world of difference between a fiberglas gelcoat with decals and a full body paint like what Iggy has. A fiberglas exterior needs to have a protective finish built for fiberglas and can be found in such places as WestMarine stores. The fiberglas RV exterior is just about the same as a boat fiberglas exterior and needs to be treated the same. Now for the full body painted RVs. Forest River explained to me that any full body painted unit is painted with an automotive type paint and the exterior needs to be treated as if it was a car. I use the Mcguires spray on protectant the you spray on after you wash and it is still wet. Very easy to use! I wash and the DW follows along with the spray "wax" and towels to dry and our unit simply gleems. Takes around an hour to do the rig!
__________________
Lostdog
2011 Georgetown 378TS in FireMist
2013 Jeep Wrangler Toad
Kirby the Old Dog, passed but still in our hearts
Max E. Dog, the new pup
Eureka the Old Cat, still hangin' on
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04-11-2013, 08:10 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: CHATSWORTH, GA.
Posts: 1,121
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Polish-sealant
Flynn's Polish's have been around for a few years, I have been using all of his products for around two years in my little detailing enterprise...With two RV's, two trucks and two cars, keeps me pretty busy.
I have found that Steve Flynn's products work and last better than anything I have ever used.
His BLACK STREAK REMOVER is the best...we use it on planes, boats, RV's and trucks. Another product he has is called ENGINE BRIGHT....we use this on all rubber and plastic, including the roof, it does not wash off...period..
Like to use a small 6" hand held DA I purchased at Sears for like twenty bucks..does a great job when applying anything...His European Cut takes any oxiadation right off, apply the past wax after that, then a cost of sealer..your are good for the whole year...Check him out on the inter-net..Flynn's Polishs, located here in Georgia..
This is our 2001 2500HD with 157K on the clock..
__________________
2500HD 6.0 Gas/Ext. Cab
2011 Crusader 270RET
2003 Sunnybrook T/T 30FIS
2012 Jeep Compass Limited
1985 S-10 One Owner:
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