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04-03-2013, 08:04 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western New York State
Posts: 1,928
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Which Wax/Sealant To Use
Well Georgetown Buddies the season of fun in the sun, or the shade of the trees at a beautiful campground is just about here (of course speaking of Northern clime folks). I'm sure the question of what wax/sealant you use and your reasons why have been asked in the past. But, seeing it is a new season upon us I thought I would bring it up again. On my previous rig I used Nu-Finish to good success for the spring waxing. For touch ups and on the front area which is bug prone I would use Eagle spray wax and in a pinch spray furniture polish bought at the dollar store for a buck a can. Now that my GT is almost 35ft., I am looking for an alternative choice. I've read good things about Rejex, though I don't know if it is sold in stores and the on line price of about $19.99 for a 16oz. bottle doesn't really bother me but the $10.95 and such shipping charges do. I am also considering buying an DA orbital buffer. Some folks like the Griot at about $110., I'm leaning to the Porter Cable 7424XP for $5 more, all ball bearing construction and the last buffer I would ever need. If I go the buffer route I haven't decided what polish/wax/sealant I would use. Suggestions and comments would be great!
__________________
sherman12 and The Fabulous Miss Barb
2014 SportsCoach Cross Country 360DL DP
Former 2011 Georgetown 330TS
Kia Sportage on MasterTow Dolly
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04-03-2013, 10:45 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Save your money and take a vacation to northern Mexico and get a wash and hand paste wax job for $1 a ft. like I did a few weeks ago.
Puerto Penasco Mexico in the Del Oro Campground.
Actuallly when I have nothing lese to do for a few days I wax it myself and porotect it from Arizona high UV with this liquid.
It will not yellow and prection is outstanding. Designed for fiberglass.
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04-03-2013, 11:21 AM
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#3
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CLASS "A" Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Upperco, Maryland
Posts: 3,136
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Mothers® California Gold® Brazilian Carnauba Cleaner Wax
Been using Mother's for about 5 years now and it's available locally at Autozone and I believe even WalMart sells it. It's still a big job to do but it's an easy application and leaves a great shine.
__________________
2007 Georgetown 370TS
aka - RAYNMKR
Driver: Charlie
Navigator: Sheri
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04-03-2013, 11:54 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfsoistman
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I may try that next time. You use the liquid or the paste?
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04-03-2013, 12:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 143
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Mother's has my vote
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04-03-2013, 12:33 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western New York State
Posts: 1,928
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My dad always told me to mind my Mother! I have heard or read others who highly recommend Mothers, especially the marine was used by Iggy.
__________________
sherman12 and The Fabulous Miss Barb
2014 SportsCoach Cross Country 360DL DP
Former 2011 Georgetown 330TS
Kia Sportage on MasterTow Dolly
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04-03-2013, 12:54 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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I've been using Meguiars NXT, but I bought some 303 Protectant to try this year.
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04-03-2013, 02:27 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 407
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Although 303 will make your MoHo look good, it rinses off with water after a couple of good rains. I use t on my tires, dash, and decals, but use Protect-All on the glas and paint.
__________________
2005 Georgetown 342DS XL, Full Banks Package
2005 Liberty Renegade 4X Toad
1989 Wrangler Sahara Toad
1984 19.5' Beachcraft i/o 5.o liter, 4-bbl (and you thought your Moho sucked gas!)
D/W Carole and Maggie the Teacup Lab (Black Chihuahua)
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04-03-2013, 04:20 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freds342
Although 303 will make your MoHo look good, it rinses off with water after a couple of good rains. I use t on my tires, dash, and decals, but use Protect-All on the glas and paint.
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Dang, I'd sure hope it would last longer than a couple rains. I guess I'll go back to using wax and save it for the plastics/rubber.
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04-03-2013, 05:00 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfsoistman
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I just went to WallyWorld and bought a can of this wax. I will give it a try.
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04-03-2013, 08:17 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Taylorsville NC
Posts: 109
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I like duragloss 101, 111, 501. 501 is a boat/rv (gel coat) sealer. IMHO, carnauba will leave a little better shine, sealer (synthetic wax) will last longer. Detailer friend of mine says to add bonding agent to above mentioned, to make it last even longer, haven't tried it yet, but will when (if) I get the honey do list caught up soon!
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04-04-2013, 06:15 AM
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#12
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CLASS "A" Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Upperco, Maryland
Posts: 3,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
I may try that next time. You use the liquid or the paste?
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I use the liquid. We were at Myrtle Beach SC and a couple that owned a Cleaning, Detailing and More company were working on a couple units close to where we were set up. He stopped over and gave me a card and we talked for a few minutes. He has used the Mothers product for years and I saw firsthand how well it worked on a couple trailers and the motorhome across from me.
__________________
2007 Georgetown 370TS
aka - RAYNMKR
Driver: Charlie
Navigator: Sheri
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04-04-2013, 07:12 AM
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#13
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Newbie.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 109
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Paste wax tends to stay on longer than most. Most brands are good now as opposed to a decade ago when only one or two brands would last. Marine grade products are fantastic (try to find one with Teflon in it). But no matter which one you choose, unfortunately the best way for it to stay on is to do a 3 step process (1- CLEAN - remove all previous wax and residue buildup, oftentimes a pre-wax cleaner applied and buffed off is best.....but adding a cupful of white vinegar to your wash bucket will also take most unwanted chemicals off 2- SEALANT - apply and buff with a pre-wax sealant....this fills all the tiny holes and cracks so that your wax will go on and stick much more efficiently....this is the hardest part of the buff job. 3) WAX. This will virtually eliminate any UV penetration and possibility of stain buildup. It will go on and buff off VERY smoothly after the sealant. Yes a 3 step job is a pain, BUT it is the best way to guarantee an amazing shine that will last the season AND repel almost anything.
Also, you can buy bug removal wipes (Armour All and other brands) that you can throw in your RV that can easily remove any residue quickly. (after the above mentioned wax job it comes right off)
Sorry so long winded, tried most everything with all my families vehicles, including boats, RV's, trucks, atv's, snowmobiles, etc.
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2013 344 QBOK
2011 F250 4x4 Supercrew Diesel
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04-04-2013, 09:16 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western New York State
Posts: 1,928
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monte, what product do you use and do you use an electric buffer like the Griot etc. or totally by hand?
__________________
sherman12 and The Fabulous Miss Barb
2014 SportsCoach Cross Country 360DL DP
Former 2011 Georgetown 330TS
Kia Sportage on MasterTow Dolly
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04-04-2013, 11:42 AM
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#15
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Newbie.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 109
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For the pre-wax cleaner and Sealant I used Auto Magic products (they are distributed here in Moncton at a high end detailing shop called Auto Indulgence. Cummings Auto Indulgence vehilcle detailing centre
Mcguire's and Mother's (also Eagle One) all make similar products.
For the wax this time I used Turtle Wax paste wax (LOL only thing I had left in the garage last fall) and it worked fine. It will wear off quicker than others but the sealant is the most important step......ANY paste wax used after the sealant is applied, tends to work better than just wax alone.BUT
The best ones out there are the marine based products. The one Iggy shows above probably has Teflon in it if you look at the ingredients. If possible try to find one with it in there. My family had boats for decades here in the salt water and it was my spring and fall job as a student to wax their hulls. At one point you could actually buy TEFLON liquid wax in a bottle direct from a sales rep. It helped keep the marina crud off the bottom of the boats.
I find the orbital buffer to be too inefficient if used flat against the side of the RV. You have to angle it to get the buffer to penetrate deep enough. I use it only to apply. Great to use with the CLeaner and the Sealant......that's where you want to dig in and then fill all the pores and cracks. For removal I use 2 separate buffing towels. One to go side to side, the other to up and down. Sounds crazy but it works. Buffing the sealant is 5X's harder than the wax.
Also don't forget to clean and then add a quick dash of wax on the inside/bottom lip of your slides. Just like the doors on your cars, this is where water will always pool. It lays here in the folds and screw holes. A touch of wax here will go a long way in keep water from getting in under where it shouldn't.
I've got a new RV on it's way from Michigan and I can hardly wait to spend a day or two with this process. Nothing better than doing the 3 step process on a new unit. Keeps it new for a long time.
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2013 344 QBOK
2011 F250 4x4 Supercrew Diesel
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04-05-2013, 09:51 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western New York State
Posts: 1,928
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Monte, Excellant suggestions and Thanks for the input!
__________________
sherman12 and The Fabulous Miss Barb
2014 SportsCoach Cross Country 360DL DP
Former 2011 Georgetown 330TS
Kia Sportage on MasterTow Dolly
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04-05-2013, 09:56 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
I just went to WallyWorld and bought a can of this wax. I will give it a try.
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I bought some of this today. How did it work for you?
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04-05-2013, 10:34 AM
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#18
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Newbie.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 109
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just found this video on Youtube. This guy does an amazing job and uses a great system for polishing up an RV that looks VERY similar to cfsoistman's Georgetown!!
How to Wash and Detail your RV with Mike Phillips - YouTube
__________________
2013 344 QBOK
2011 F250 4x4 Supercrew Diesel
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04-08-2013, 01:10 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
I just went to WallyWorld and bought a can of this wax. I will give it a try.
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I spent 4 hours yesterday waxing the TT with the Mothers Carnauba Cleaner Wax (in the can) and I can't recommend this wax if you're doing it soley by hand. It's thick like a hard bar of soap and it's pretty hard to apply. I would have Popeye arms if I had done it all by hand. I ended up breaking out the 10" Orbital Buffer and I had to use a putty knife to get the wax out of the can to spread it on the buffing pad. Using the buffer made it so much easier to apply and the results were awesome. Since it's a cleaner wax it removed all the oxidation and left a very hard shine. It should look good for a long time, but even using the buffer I'm fairly sore today
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04-08-2013, 01:31 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stromsburg, Nebraska
Posts: 1,682
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Question, and maybe it's been answered and i just didn't see it? When waxing, do you need to stay away from the decals or just wax right over them? On my old tt, i waxed over them and it seemed fine, but i only had the trailer for two seasons before buying my fiver. I want to do it right, and this thread has been a huge help. Thanks to all who are contributing.
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Joel and Teresa
2016 Sabre 34TBOK
2006 GMC 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4
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