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Old 10-24-2016, 05:50 AM   #1
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Battery Control Center

I thought I had a converter problem, but turns out that something in the Battery Control Center is faulty. Can't get power from converter/charger or the alternator. Both are putting out greater than 13.5 amps, but not getting to house batteries. Need to get a new one, but haven't located where to buy one online.
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:06 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkhill View Post
I thought I had a converter problem, but turns out that something in the Battery Control Center is faulty. Can't get power from converter/charger or the alternator. Both are putting out greater than 13.5 amps, but not getting to house batteries. Need to get a new one, but haven't located where to buy one online.
Yours is pretty new and I wouldn't just replace it without debugging. It could be a simple fuse or one of the disconnect solenoids. The way most units are wired, the converter will feed the coach with 12 volts with the batteries disconnected, but of course, no charging will occur from any source.

There are a lot of BCCs out there but I have attached a reasonable wiring diagram that someone posted a while ago and the manual for an InteliTek BCC. Neither might not be an exact match to your coach (or mine) but it is FR and shows how they (and BCCs) do things.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf batcont1.pdf (252.6 KB, 1038 views)
File Type: pdf Intellitek BCC Manual.[df.pdf (607.5 KB, 1042 views)
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:48 AM   #3
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Thanks, I will investigate with the diagrams. The BBC in my coach is a SDC-107A. The converter did not supply the coach with 12V when the batteries depleted and hooked to 50A shore power. That's what alerted me to a problem.
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:51 AM   #4
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Forgot to mention that the cover says it is made by RV Custom Products
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:57 AM   #5
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Happen to know that one well, my Bounder had an RV custom products BCC. Here is some diagnostic information. Yours is newer but I doubt they changed much.

if someone tries to read the schematics, be careful they are a "build" and each page only shows the components that they are trying to highlight. You need to take them all together to see the whole thing.

BTW, I do remember that many people had trouble with the 5 amp boost start fuse, it would look good but needed replacing.

Good luck. I am sure it is something simple.
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File Type: pdf RV_Customs_BCC_TS_Guide.pdf (512.6 KB, 656 views)
File Type: pdf Charge Relay data From RV Custom Products BCC.pdf (33.8 KB, 512 views)
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:11 AM   #6
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Thanks. I'll take it out and see what I can do.
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Old 10-24-2016, 01:12 PM   #7
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There may be a small circuit breaker reset switch around the battery compartment. If it has tripped, nothing will charge the coach batteries until reset.
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Old 10-24-2016, 03:40 PM   #8
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Haven't seen any breakers that would affect the charging
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:13 PM   #9
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Here is another diagram that might be helpful.....
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File Type: pdf Georgetown-Battery Connect Center.pdf (318.6 KB, 698 views)
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Old 10-25-2016, 12:56 PM   #10
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Sounds to me like the 12VDC solenoid inside the control box (the RV Custom Products Model SDC-107A) has gone belly up. If you have a meter you can check it as follows; With the shore power disconnected and generator off, check the three large connections on the right side of the control box. The top one (closest to you and marked #1 on the diagram) should be 0, the top post toward the back of the box (marked #2) will show you the voltage on your chassis (engine start) battery (approx. 12.6V if the battery is charged up) and the lower one will show you the voltage on your coach batteries (again approx. 12.6V if charged). Now plug in the shore power and voltage on post #1. If it is now reading approx 13.4 your power converter is functioning. Now check the bottom post #3 again, if the voltage reading has increased to the same value as the top stud, the solenoid is probably okay. If the voltage on post #3 does not increase, then the solenoid is probably not working and the only solution is to replace it. Power being supplied to the generator start circuit from the batteries and a host of other 12VDC components are fed through that solenoid. If you are an electrical guy, the next step is to disconnect the battery cables, remove the two power plugs and remove the control box from the chassis. Carefully remove the printed circuit board to expose the two solenoid switches and the diode matrix. The smart move would be to replace both solenoids while you have everything disassembled. You can also visually check the circuit board for damage and check the fuses. Reassemble. Or...option 2 would be to just buy a new control box on line and replace it.-A Piece of cake!!-
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:22 PM   #11
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May be a dumb question now but your batteries aren't disconnected are they? The battery disconnect switch light bar will illuminate even though the batteries have been disconnected. Just a thought.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:34 PM   #12
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I also found a schematic with a description sheet. Hope this helps.
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File Type: pdf SDC-107A-Vehicle DC System Schem B1-0062e.pdf (55.7 KB, 477 views)
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:03 PM   #13
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The batteries are connected. There are no dumb questions! Thanks all, I'll try all suggestions when I get home.
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:50 PM   #14
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Hi Guys. Had problems with the SDC-107A BBC. The battery Boost switch on the dash was not working. Every time I pushed this button, the 5 amps fuse blew. It was diagnosed by a pro with a bad selenoid switch. (Having checked it before, I knew it was OK). So before spending a good chunk of money on a new SDC-107A, I decided to take the box apart and check the PC board. Didn't find any problem. Reassembled everything and miracle, the Battery Boost Button was working all right. Before I did that, I had all kind of funny behaviors when I tried to start the engine like having a dead chassis battery after driving a hundred miles. My guess I that the back of the PC Board is very close to different connectors on the battery isolator switch and the selenoid switch. Depending at where the two came in contact, because of the road induced vibrations, you'd end up with short-circuit or other strange behavior like batteries not charging or getting dead very quickly. Hope the would help.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:02 PM   #15
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I have a problem with the selenoid in the sdc107a control box, I need to replace this selenoid every year. because the chassis alternator stop charging the coach battery, So I have to connect to AC power or start the générator to get the jack down. I need help tanks. I am new on this forum and I am french guy from Quebec so please excuse my english writing. My motor home is a Georgetown XL 2008 model 326.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:29 AM   #16
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It sounds like when you change the solenoid (interconnect relay) it all functions normal. That solenoid is controlled by two methods. 1: by the emergency start switch used to start the coach and 2: by the circuits on the electrical board inside the sdc107a control box. That board will decide when the coach and chassis batteries can be connected together for charging when either connected to shore power (via converter) or when not connected to shore power and engine driven alternator is providing the charging. Depending on which way charging is being done the priority battery will either be coach batteries (shore power) or chassis battery (alternator). This is probably more information than you would like to know but may explain things down the road. As said it sounds as though everything works after changing the solenoid and that to me would indicate a better solenoid is called for. The other scenario of course could be that the electrical board in the box has some issues but typically the issue would not be of this type nature. Of course anything electrical is possible. I'm not an expert. Good luck.
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Old 04-09-2018, 09:38 PM   #17
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If I understand your #3 Post the 12V circuits worked until the battery went dead.
Not sure what RV you have, however if it is wired like my GT378 I would suspect
a Bad connection between the converter and the power distribution panel.
See the following schematic I hope this explains my thinking
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File Type: pdf temp.pdf (11.0 KB, 237 views)
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Old 04-10-2018, 06:16 AM   #18
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mbtelguy this thread is 2 years old and lebrave just tagged onto it instead of starting a new thread.
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Old 04-11-2018, 03:58 AM   #19
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I don't want to over simplify this, but I was also ready to replace my disconnect switch and someone on the forum suggested I check the grounds. There is a ground wire that is screwed right into the chassis near the batteries. I took it out, ground the paint off the chassis, cleaned it all up and haven't had a problem since.
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