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Old 08-09-2011, 02:37 PM   #1
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Winter Use

Hello everyone ; newbie here looking for advice on using my Georgetown in winter. I will be accepting delivery on my new unit in september. I have a covered storage area with electricity in new york and will be going to florida for a week in the beginning of january. is there a way i could avoid winterizing my unit until after my return trip home. any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:19 PM   #2
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Depends how warm you can keep your unit, and if you can rely on electricity with no power outages. Now 2 gallons of antifreeze, at Tractor Supply here today is $3.09 gallon, times two, plus tax has got to be less than $10.00. For 2 gallons of antifreeze, With labor for repair at $100 per hour, that is 6 minutes of shop labor time. What is the big deal with winterizing the rig anyway?
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:04 AM   #3
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Drain all of your tanks and water heater. Use a air compressor set at 40PSI and blow out the water lines using the city water connection. Be sure to open every faucet and toilet and outdoor shower to get the water out. Whatever small amount might be left will not cause any problems. You'll need to remove the filter housing and dump any water out and also remove the filter housing prior to the water pump and dump the small amount of water that will remain in there. Get a gallon of anti-freeze and pour it into each trap at the sinks and shower. When you're ready to use the coach you'll have to put water in the tank if you'll need it for the trip. Don't forget to refill the water heater before turning it on. At least you won't need to flush out anti-freeze if you plan to use it from time to time. Your traps will flush out as soon as you use any water.
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:40 PM   #4
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We use our Georgetown most weekends throughout the winter. It is parked up in NW Washington (near Mt. Baker). After the weekend, I pull the plug on the hot water tank to drain it, bypass the hot water tank, and using the water pump I fill the lines with RV anti-freeze. Total cost, about 10 bucks, total time, about 10 minutes and I have never had a problem with a frozen water line. The following weekend, I put the plug back in the hot water tank, reset the bypasses, turn on the water, run the water inside the MH long enough the clear the pink antifreeze and I'm good to go. Easy to do,and good insurance.
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Old 08-12-2011, 05:20 PM   #5
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Thanks to charlie and hankster . I think i will try the compressed air method, so i dont have to flush all that antifreeze out each time. i was just concerned that the compressor would evacuate enough water to prevent a problem
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:04 PM   #6
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Hi ltypd,

If you put water in the plumbing, you will have to do it each time.
If you use a plug and an air compressor and open all the faucets like explaining by cfsoistman you should not have any water in your plumbing, the antifreeze will be to protect your traps where a little bit of water can stay.
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Old 08-12-2011, 10:53 PM   #7
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A tad off topic but after using our rig in the winter a few years rust has been an isue (IL like to salt the roads) so I would undercoat the RV in as many spots and cover your batteries if they aren't (ours are under the stairs and very exposed to cold and heat.
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Old 08-13-2011, 07:37 AM   #8
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I hope the fresh water tank on your MH is not like my 2004/5 Georgetown. After draining there is 1/3 of a tank left! The pump is connected about 1-1/2 inches above the bottom. Although I haven't tried it yet I plan to remove the vent tube , insert a 3/4 inch plastic tube through the vent hole and use my shop vac to suck out the remaining water. Has anyone tried this?
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Old 08-13-2011, 08:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldprof1 View Post
I hope the fresh water tank on your MH is not like my 2004/5 Georgetown. After draining there is 1/3 of a tank left! The pump is connected about 1-1/2 inches above the bottom. Although I haven't tried it yet I plan to remove the vent tube , insert a 3/4 inch plastic tube through the vent hole and use my shop vac to suck out the remaining water. Has anyone tried this?
Haven't done anything other than drain the tank. I know there's no way for all of the water in the tank to come out but what remains will have plenty of room for expansion when it would freeze without causing any problems for the fresh water tank. However I do remove the pump filter reservoir with the screen to remove the water in there and leave it off until spring time. I then reconnect it, fill the tank with 1/4 cup of bleach per 15 gallons of water and pump it through the lines until I small the bleach. I leave it over night and then rinse out the next day or so. I then remove the water heater by-pass and fill the taht tank.
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:41 PM   #10
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I did my last de-winterization exactly as Hankster described it. I got a hot water tank full of antifreeze as I was endeavoring to flush out the antfreeze throughout the system. I learned then and there to change the sequence a little to put the flushing ahead of resetting the bypass valves. Maybe I read his sequence wrong or perhaps Hankster just got excited in his description and really meant to place the resetting of the bypass as the last step before refilling the HWT with fresh water.
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:10 AM   #11
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Use an oilless compressor to blow out the lines because if any oil gets into the water system from an old compressor say, water will have a taste and odor for a while to come not to speak of the health consequences of consuming compressor oil.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:06 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the good advice. Do i need to disconnect the water lines from the washing machine when i blow out the lines or can they stay connected?
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:50 PM   #13
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If you disconnect the hot and cold supply lines from your washer, be prepared to deal with the water that remains in the lines if you do choose to blow your lines out. The washer lines are inside the unit and not outside like most other drain points.

I had to winterize my coach twice last winter for a situation similar to yours. I personally am not a fan of the compressed air method as you always have the potential of having some parts of the water supply system that may not have proper fall and could be subject to any remaining water pooling and freezing, especially over the length of a unit like a motorhome. Winterizing a unit is no big deal but you have a certain sequnce to follow if you want to ensure your unit from freeze up.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:28 PM   #14
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Okay okay, you're right, I run the water before reseting the bypass valve. I do use shore water during the winters up here in Washington (with heat tape on the hose) which still leaves a little anti-freeze in the pump and the water lines close to it. As I said, I have never had a problem with freezing water lines and this is my third MH up by the Mt. Baker area.
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Old 10-07-2011, 02:50 PM   #15
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Luckily I have found an indoor storage facility with electricity for the winter. If I leave my motorhome connected, how do I keep the coach batteries from frying.
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Old 10-08-2011, 05:40 PM   #16
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We're getting ready to head out next month moving to anchorage, AK. We're dragging the TT with us and we'll be using it as our residence for a month+. I'm planning on blowing out the lines at night if the temps get below freezing. I've got a big dewalt compressor that I really don't want to take with me as weight and space are going to be a factor. Does anyone know/or has anyone tried the small 1gal type air compressors for blowing out the lines? (DeWalt - D55140 - Heavy Duty 1 Gallon 135PSI Max Trim Compressor) Is this size sufficient, or is it just too small for this type of job? I'm not sure how long it can handle pushing 35-40 psi thru the lines.
Thanks, Gabe
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:57 PM   #17
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Hey_nav,

I use a 3 gal craftsman and I can get the job done but not sure I want to go smaller
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:57 PM   #18
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The air pressure method only takes a few mins, a small compressor can handle it. I use a craftsman 150psi and set gauge at 40 psi and works fine.
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:03 PM   #19
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We have a GT 378 2012, I live in Quebec and I prefer to go with the plumbing liquid, it take about 15 minutes to winterize including washer/dryer and frigo except you have to wait 1 or 2 cycle for the ice-maker machine...

I do not want to take any chance and it depend if you live in the North and how cold is the temperature in the winter.
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