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Old 09-25-2008, 01:18 AM   #1
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Winterizing Info

This is my first time winterizing my new 315 DS. Any detailed steps or PDF file with diagrams specifically for the 315 DS would be appreciated. They kinda went over it at the dealership, but too much new info at one time to digest!
Guess I could take it back to them, but wanted to know how for myself. I just need to get water out to keep from getting stale/bad tasting water in future. I store it in a Limestone mine @ 54 degree constant, so Im not worried about freezing.
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Old 09-26-2008, 08:45 PM   #2
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I just winterized mine today and I used the RV blow out fitting. First you remove the water heater plug, open all faucets and open the drain valve. You then let all the water drain out. Then screw the fitting into the city water supply hook up and use an air compressor to blow the remaining water out of the lines. Just my limited experience and knowledge, hope it helps.
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:35 PM   #3
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I live in Canada so it is a little bit colder here and I have a new 2009 350ds

I first drained my tank using the low level drain in the same compartment as the propane. As that was draining I pulled my plug for the hot water heater.

I then used the air hose and blew out the lines through the city water fill inlet.

I used rv antifreeze to avoid any freezing.

if you need any more info please feel free to ask
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Old 10-01-2008, 03:49 PM   #4
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Brock525 & Schwing2008
Thanks for the replies... I thought there may have been a web page/site that would show drawings of where everything is located. I seen one for Safari that was nice. It showed what position to put each valve in and where all low point drains were. If using air compressor to blow lines clear, do you have some kind of purification filter? Hoses and steel lines can contain contaminates that you really dont want in your water supply lines. In my line of work, we use compressors for work tools and with a specific filter we can use them for "breathable air" supply.
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Old 10-01-2008, 11:01 PM   #5
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I have used a normal air hose for all my motorhomes and I have never had an issue

I would first find the back of the hot watre heater ( mine is in a compartment under the sink. It is a wood cover with screws to get into it ) there is only one value and only one way to turn it.

Then undo your big bolt on the outside of your water heater ( take off panel outside your rv )

Next step is find the water pump. On my Georgetown 350ds it is right above my propane tank. There is 2 white compartment screw caps that I took off. Behind there should be your pump. Find the inlet to the pump and the valve is about 3 inches from there and if you want the hose to put antifreeze through your lines it is right by that valve.

The low level drains on my rv are all right beside my built in propane tank


I hope this helps.
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:50 PM   #6
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I just can't figure one thing out. If you blow all the water from your lines with compressed air then why add antifreeze to the lines???? No water=Nothing to freeze. RV antifreeze in your system in my mind is just a big pain in the arse and of no use at all once all the water is gone. I have used compressed air for years to blow the lines and have NEVER had a problem. Using antifreeze after blowing the lines just seems like a waste of time and money to me.
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:52 PM   #7
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I did not add antifreeze to the lines, just the traps. I figured with blowing the air and leaving all the faucets and drains open I would be allright. With the little bit of water that was left if any I think it would be fine. I have been wrong before, just ask my wife.
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:08 AM   #8
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The reason you might want to add antifreeze is just in case.....
It's possible that you won't get all the water out.
There could be drops or droplets along the inside of the lines.
If enough of these drops should gravitate to a low spot and actually manage to
fill a line with as little as a few spoonfulls it's possible the line could freeze and
split at that point.

I'm not saying you must add antifreeze. I'm just saying why some folks blow them
out and still add antifreeze.

Good luck!
KyDan
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:06 PM   #9
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Brock525, thanks for the clarification, I can see putting it down the drains but I would NEVER put it in my fresh water system. Blowing the lines clear has always been enough. I also keep a small electric space heater in our motorhome with the thermostat set to around 50 or 55 degrees. I also keep the cabinet doors open. I feel that keeping the cold moist air away from the inside of the rig by using a heater is a the best way to keep the rig from mildewing and rotting during the winter.
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWJeeper View Post
but I would NEVER put it in my fresh water system.
I'm glad that works for you. I don't want the expense and worry of a
space heater running in my RV all winter.
We leave a ceiling vent open just about 24/7/365 and have never felt like
there was any tendency for mold or mildew or even stale air inside.
We are in Kentucky where the winter air is typically dry.
If you live along the coast I'm sure that makes a difference in how you
manage your rig in the off season.

As far as RV antifreeze in the fresh lines, that's what it's made for.
In the spring we flush the lines briefly and go camping!
We often take a blue tote jug for coffee water but not always.
I've found that the water might have a bit of a "funny" taste the
first couple of days. That's why we use the blue jug.
The off taste quickly goes away.

I just don't want folks to feel like they must buy a compressor in order
to winterize their rig. It can be done with just a jug of rv antifreeze and
the on-board water pump.
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