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Old 09-08-2015, 07:31 PM   #11
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Have you tried checking the coach battery voltage? If the batteries are showing only 1/3 on the monitor panel, then the voltage should be at or just below 12V. When you're plugged in and the converter is working properly, you should see over 13V at the battery terminals. The critical thing to see is that the battery voltage rises when the converter is operating.

You can get an inexpensive digital voltmeter at WM or, as I do, watch for Harbor Freight giving them away with any purchase. Buy a screwdriver bit for $0.25 or a razor blade knife for $0.30 and you'll get a meter for free. Or just buy one from them for around $6.

If your battery has a bad cell, then all bets are off. A bad cell in a 12V battery will drop the voltage from over 13V (fully charged) to around 11V, which will show up on the monitor panel as a low batery. Did you check of there's water (acid) covering the plates in all of the battery's cells? If you have exposed plates, then assume that the battery is bad and replace it unless you can recharge it with a multi-stage battery charger, it will hold a charge, and a deep cycle discharge test shows that it's still good. If you have two batteries in parallel, you might need to replace both even though only one has failed because the failed battery will effect the good one.

Phil
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:00 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by pmsherman View Post

If your battery has a bad cell, then all bets are off. A bad cell in a 12V battery will drop the voltage from over 13V (fully charged) to around 11V, which will show up on the monitor panel as a low batery. Did you check of there's water (acid) covering the plates in all of the battery's cells? If you have exposed plates, then assume that the battery is bad and replace it unless you can recharge it with a multi-stage battery charger, it will hold a charge, and a deep cycle discharge test shows that it's still good. If you have two batteries in parallel, you might need to replace both even though only one has failed because the failed battery will effect the good one.

Phil

+1 on this info.

No test of any component in a 12 volt system is valid unless the battery is proven to be good.

Temporary use of a known good battery from another vehicle for testing purposes is a quick way to verify proper operation of the converter, etc.
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:09 PM   #13
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Battery Trob's Con't

I had a heck of a time last Nov up in the mountains with my batteries showing full one minute, then suddenly they were dead! Which would kill my lights, furnace, etc... I would start the engine and suddenly they were full again...? Very weird. Well after much net research I decided to start with the WFCO converter and replace it with the much better rated Progressive unit. I have not had a problem since. And yes, you need 12v for some of the controls going to your roof a/c.
RS
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:13 PM   #14
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batteries not charging

Thanks everyone for all your input. I'm learning a lot about our new rig. We ended up calling a mobile RV tech because we were out on the road. It was the power converter. It was one of those WFCO 9855 model that is famous for failing quite often. The tech replaced it with a different brand. If we'd had a voltage meter... and knew what to do with it!... we could have tested it ourselves but still would have needed to find a converter. Yes, it cost more with the RV tech guy but we had a definite answer to our constant power issues and it was fixed in 10 minutes. Plus we got the full run down on how the batteries charge when plugged in and turning on the battery switch and what the inverter was doing under the passenger seat. Also, we found out that our water heater is also electric and not just propane gas like the dealer said. The tech showed us a switch by the tank that was tucked up out of sight that changed it to electric. All in all, it was worth the extra dollars.

My advice to anyone with a WFCO 9855 power converter, replace it while you can order it on line and pay $140 and put it in yourself for free instead of $280 at a dealer plus installation.

Until next time.. and we all know there will be a next time.. Thanks
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:00 PM   #15
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Charging the batteries

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Originally Posted by allan kay View Post
I have a Forest River motor home And I found out on shore power you must have the power switch just inside the door turned on to have it charge. This may be the same for your unit. Just try it Put test on with power switch off Then test with power switch on.
It's a crying shame that there isn't a good manual that tells you these most important things. We had the same problem, and NOTHING in the manual told us this. Thank goodness for this forum!!!
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Old 10-31-2015, 01:07 PM   #16
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We have a 2014 Forest River Sunseeker 225os New last July/14 with the same problem. The coach batteries seem not to be charging and I also have the same problem with the battery in the Ford Cab E350 not taking a charge. Any thoughts
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Old 11-01-2015, 12:59 AM   #17
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We have a 2014 Forest River Sunseeker 225os New last July/14 with the same problem. The coach batteries seem not to be charging and I also have the same problem with the battery in the Ford Cab E350 not taking a charge. Any thoughts
46chevy, mine was the power converter. Mine is under the bed. See my previous post for more detail. If you are plugged into electricity, make sure your coach battery switch is on. Mine is by the door. I did a lot of googling on the internet. Its a common complaint so there is lots of info to try. Or be like me and call an RV repair guy. Make sure the are certified.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:19 PM   #18
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Thanks,

Does anyone know the amp that are in a coach battery, I have in the coach side by side The ford cab battery has 650 cranking amp's
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:52 PM   #19
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It's very hard to tell the capacity of a coach battery. The easiest way to compare them is by looking at the "reserve capacity" number. This is the number of minutes it will take the battery to drop from fully charged to 10.8V while under a 25A load. There are also specifications that describe what "fully charged" means for this test.

The measurement you also usually see on a deep cycle battery is an amp-hour rating. A 100AH 12V battery will provide 1200 watts of power when discharged at the designed test rate. Unfortunately, battery makers have been inflating the capacity rating of batteries by altering the discharge rate. The lower the discharge rate, the higher the battery capacity. Years ago, batteries were usually tested at a 10% discharge rate. This means that a battery rated at 100AH would provide 10AH for 10 hours. Today, that same battery is more likely to be rated to provide 1AH for 110-120 hours. Batteries have internal resistance and the faster you pull power from the battery (higher current), the more losses you get from this internal resistance. The only time an RV battery provides current at a 1A/hour rate is when almost everything is shut off. When you're using it to power lights, water pump. and maybe a computer, you will see more losses from internal resistance.

If you replace two 12V deep cycle marine/hybrid batteries wired in parallel with two 6V golf cart batteries wired is series to produce 12V, be aware that the reserve capacity of golf cart batteries is measured at a 75A drain rate, three times that of marine deep cycle batteries.

Phil
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Old 11-05-2015, 05:09 PM   #20
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Thanks Phil

What is the best way to keep them charged if they have been removed from the MH for part of the winter, temp here in Manitoba can get to -45C with the wind chill.

Andy
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