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Old 11-21-2013, 04:39 PM   #11
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When at the Rally-------------

When at the Rally in Goshen, the same question was ask bay a fellow from Quebec that was having his Manuel awning replaced with a electric awning. The techs said to completely remove the old awning and replace everything with the new hardware for the electric awning to make sure it all works. Plug all the old holes with Stainless steel lag bolts.

I watched this happen at the 2012 rally.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:49 PM   #12
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I am looking at converting my manuel awning to an electric one. Has anyone else looked into this or done it?
Why would you want to do that? except it's easier of course to press a button, The manual awnings are so much stronger. I tried to get them added new instead of the electric ones, I don't care what anyone say's they do not hold up the metal is so light that they will bend with just a little pressure. But that is just me. The person who invents a flopper stopper for the electric awning will become an millionaire over night. Ah! a new project for the old coot to design on his CAD. You got to keep that old man busy or he creates s--t on this forum...
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:51 PM   #13
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The manual awning is more "beefy" than the automatic from A&E. Don't think motor could handle the extra load. From the way mine works, I'm sure it would really struggle with the manual ones I've had before. I feel confident in saying a retrofit to existing manual awning would not work. Actually I think I prefer the manual ones. They can be converted to the carport configuration and secured to the ground for windy conditions and a deflapper installed on each end is easily accomplished. Not necessarily a bad thing having a manual awning.
Same can be done with an electric.

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Old 11-21-2013, 04:52 PM   #14
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Why would you want to do that? except it's easier of course to press a button, The manual awnings are so much stronger. I tried to get them added new instead of the electric ones, I don't care what anyone say's they do not hold up the metal is so light that they will bend with just a little pressure. But that is just me. The person who invents a flopper stopper for the electric awning will become an millionaire over night. Ah! a new project for the old coot to design on his CAD. You got to keep that old man busy or he creates s--t on this forum...
Easy fix, just throw a strap over the material and secure on the flimsy arms. Works like a charm.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:53 PM   #15
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:55 PM   #16
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Same can be done with an electric.
And a lot easier and just as good. I'll take my electric over the 7 manuals I've had now that we have the poles installed.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:02 PM   #17
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Thank you all for your input.
Doesn't take that much time or energy, and way I have done it for past years, just getting older and lazier.
As Kathy Bates said in "Fried Green Tomatoes", I have more insurance and can afford it.
Again Thank You!!
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:20 AM   #18
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Have a Lexington Class B+.
Curved where roof and sidewalls meet requiring a horizontal mount at top with sissor type action.
Google Lexington and notice awning support bracket curves just above top od entry door.
This curve precludes using a verticle sction electric awning. Other option is horizontal operating elecrtric awning.
Done my research, just curious if anyone has done this conversion.
I think we may have "spacer" wedges that space the awning out to be "flat". So I think this conversion is possible on a Lexie even.
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:05 PM   #19
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As it turns out there may be a kit to convert from manual to electric. I think it involves replacing the support arms and the roller tube internals. This mod was discussed on other forums. Did not sound like a hard mod to do and certainly a lot cheaper than new. Don't have particulars.
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Old 11-23-2013, 01:38 PM   #20
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Thank you. Understand that due to curve at top of support arms this was not viable.
Bclmens in previous post stated wedges available. Am looking into it further but would appreciate any additional information anyone might have.
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