Total power loss on Lexington 2005

[arribasf]

Hi I have a 2005 Lexington and I have a total power loss even the inigtion is none operable, we have recently had some freezing temps (only to -5) and this occoured during these frosts. It may have been caused by the auto-step trying to operate when frozen stiff and opening the door. The red light is on on the battery disconnect panel near the footwell at the door but nothing happens when the switch is moved to store and back to use.Any idea's and or location of trouble ?? I am in England so do not have a dealership to contact.

[cfsoistman]

Have you checked the battery for power?? If it's not dead, then remove the cables and clean the terminals and cable ends. If the ground is not making contact due to some corrosion it will show a charge in the battery at the terminal but nothing is completing the circuit to start your vehicle. If still nothing, follow the ground wire to where it contacts the frame. You may need to clean that area as well.

[Dave T]

The battery disconnect switch is for the coach battery . I would check the engine starting battery (engine compartment)voltage. That is the battery for starting the engine. Do you have a boost switch on the dash to tie the coach battery to the engine battery. I believe the engine starting battery does operate the steps.
Read this post on how the 2 batteries are tied together.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nfo-14761.html

[arribasf]

Originally Posted by cfsoistman

Have you checked the battery for power?? If it's not dead, then remove the cables and clean the terminals and cable ends. If the ground is not making contact due to some corrosion it will show a charge in the battery at the terminal but nothing is completing the circuit to start your vehicle. If still nothing, follow the ground wire to where it contacts the frame. You may need to clean that area as well.

Hi, I have checked all batteries with a circuit tester and all show a strong 12v full charge, also the internal control panel (opposite fridge) the battery test signal is again very strong (4 lights) and lights up like a christmas tree. the only items that appear working are those that are powered via the external power source i.e. fridge,and lights (including the battery disconnect light near the step) but everything else is dead ?

[arribasf]

Originally Posted by Dave T

The battery disconnect switch is for the coach battery . I would check the engine starting battery (engine compartment)voltage. That is the battery for starting the engine. Do you have a boost switch on the dash to tie the coach battery to the engine battery. I believe the engine starting battery does operate the steps.
Read this post on how the 2 batteries are tied together.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nfo-14761.html

Hi, I have checked all batteries and all show a full 12v charge and on the internal control panel (opposite fridge) the battery test signal is again very strong (full 4 lights) the on ly items that appear live are those that are powered from the external source i.e. fridge,lights and the battery disconnect switch light every thing else is dead even the battrey gauge on the drivers instrument panel and as far as I can tell there is no boost switch on the dash ??

[Dave T]

Any lights that work in the coach (fridge,control panel & etc. ) are powered by the coach battery. I think you are dealing only with a engine battery issue. Does anything electrical in the cab work? Dome light,radio & etc. , if not . Fuseable link might be it or a larger Amp fuse that is blown. There are fuses under the dash on the drivers side & also under the hood. To check ground, put one test probe on + battery post & the othe on a good chassis ground. Frame if possible. See voltage, the ground is OK. But I would check the battery connections .
Here is a link to 2012 E450 Fords. It should give you an idea how the Ford chassis is wired. Thanks to bclemens from Forest River
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...rical_v1.0.pdf
Also if the coach is plugged into shore power , the main power shutoff will stay operated.

[arribasf]

Originally Posted by Dave T

Any lights that work in the coach (fridge,control panel & etc. ) are powered by the coach battery. I think you are dealing only with a engine battery issue. Does anything electrical in the cab work? Dome light,radio & etc. , if not . Fuseable link might be it or a larger Amp fuse that is blown. There are fuses under the dash on the drivers side & also under the hood. To check ground, put one test probe on + battery post & the othe on a good chassis ground. Frame if possible. See voltage, the ground is OK. But I would check the battery connections .
Here is a link to 2012 E450 Fords. It should give you an idea how the Ford chassis is wired. Thanks to bclemens from Forest River
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...rical_v1.0.pdf
Also if the coach is plugged into shore power , the main power shutoff will stay operated.

Hi, I have removed the external power and there is no power or instruments working anywere, no radio,lights etc nothing,even the battery power level indicator on the control panel is dead (unless there is external power) I have looked at the fuses under the drivers position and there appears nothing out of place,the only 30amp fuse I could see was ok but I will have to examine more carfully for any others,as for the engine area fuses I will have to wait a couple of weeks so that I can remove the vans winter overcoat as we are expecting a siberian blast of frezzing tempretures lasting 3-4 weeks according to the forcastors. But it does seem strange to have such a total power loss yet all the batteries showing full charge on a separate tester ?

[Dave T]

This is really strange. Maybe you don't have a battery isolator that connects the 2 battery systems together. A way to prove is to plug in the shore power & both batteries should read 13.6 volts. A fully charged battery should read around 12.6 volts when not being charged & no load. I know the switches in my coach didn't work good last winter when it was stored in the cold. This winter I am living in it & in Arizona , no problem. I did leave my coach plugged into shorepower last winter. It's easier on batteries if being charged when sitting in freezing temps.

[arribasf]

Originally Posted by Dave T

This is really strange. Maybe you don't have a battery isolator that connects the 2 battery systems together. A way to prove is to plug in the shore power & both batteries should read 13.6 volts. A fully charged battery should read around 12.6 volts when not being charged & no load. I know the switches in my coach didn't work good last winter when it was stored in the cold. This winter I am living in it & in Arizona , no problem. I did leave my coach plugged into shorepower last winter. It's easier on batteries if being charged when sitting in freezing temps.

Hi I have checked the batteries and the coach batteries show 12 volts and the main batteries show 13.5 or thereabouts (its above the 12 volt mark on my tester) also I always keep the external power on whenever I arrive home and leave it on 24/7 ,I cannot find an isolator switch yet but it would explain the power loss but would it isolate both sets of batteries ? as it stands at the moment it's as if all batteries have been removed

[Dave T]

The purpose of the battery isolater is to have both set of batteries charged while plugged into shore power or while the engine is running charging the batteries off the altenator. But also to make sure the engine starting isn't drained by power used in the coach when not plugged into shorepower. Engine starting is always # 1 choice. I'm guessing you do not have this feature. The engine starting battery can go dead if it doesn't have maintance charge on it.
A digital volt meter is the best way to check a battery's votage as this chart shows. 12 volts is just about a dead battery
Voltage State of Charge
12.6+100%
12.5 90%
12.42 80%
12.32 70%
12.20 60%
12.06 50%
11.9 40%
11.75 30%
11.58 20%
11.31 10%
10.5 0%
I'm still don't why both sets of batteries?? 2 troubles ?
Can you jump start the engine or put a charger on it's battery?

[Snellville-Dave]

Sounds like you need a mobile RV repair person, if one is near you. Dave

[arribasf]

Originally Posted by Dave T

The purpose of the battery isolater is to have both set of batteries charged while plugged into shore power or while the engine is running charging the batteries off the altenator. But also to make sure the engine starting isn't drained by power used in the coach when not plugged into shorepower. Engine starting is always # 1 choice. I'm guessing you do not have this feature. The engine starting battery can go dead if it doesn't have maintance charge on it.
A digital volt meter is the best way to check a battery's votage as this chart shows. 12 volts is just about a dead battery
Voltage State of Charge
12.6+100%
12.5 90%
12.42 80%
12.32 70%
12.20 60%
12.06 50%
11.9 40%
11.75 30%
11.58 20%
11.31 10%
10.5 0%
I'm still don't why both sets of batteries?? 2 troubles ?
Can you jump start the engine or put a charger on it's battery?

I have fitted a charger onto the engine start batteries just to see if it would help but it will take at least 24 hours, I will advise on results.

[arribasf]

Originally Posted by Dave T

The purpose of the battery isolater is to have both set of batteries charged while plugged into shore power or while the engine is running charging the batteries off the altenator. But also to make sure the engine starting isn't drained by power used in the coach when not plugged into shorepower. Engine starting is always # 1 choice. I'm guessing you do not have this feature. The engine starting battery can go dead if it doesn't have maintance charge on it.
A digital volt meter is the best way to check a battery's votage as this chart shows. 12 volts is just about a dead battery
Voltage State of Charge
12.6+100%
12.5 90%
12.42 80%
12.32 70%
12.20 60%
12.06 50%
11.9 40%
11.75 30%
11.58 20%
11.31 10%
10.5 0%
I'm still don't why both sets of batteries?? 2 troubles ?
Can you jump start the engine or put a charger on it's battery?

Hi Dave, With your battery chart info I thought I would try charging both sets of batteries but before doing so I carried out a full check of all controls and hey-presto I noticed that the light switch was partially out, why or how I have no idea and unfortunately since the winter overcoat was on which covers the van from the rear roof down to the front bumper and covers all lights I do not know if the main beam or side lights were on (or not) however after charging for 4 days surprise surprise the engine started and all appears ok. Now I have to work out how the switch was on!!! many thanks for the battrey charge data without it I would still be wondering what was wrong so thanks again

[TURBS]

Don't most of those have a high amp fuse inline?