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02-24-2008, 04:06 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
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Winterizing
I have a 26' 2004 Forest River Lexington. The manual is so generic, it completely lacks specific information on winterizing. Here is what I have discovered through experience and pointers, what am I missing?
1. Drain holding tanks
2. Drain water heater by removing plug near bottom using the provided wrench. The plug is located inside hatch with the grating on the right side of the RV.
3. Drain the two fresh water drain points under the vehicle near the fresh water supply points.
4. Flush toilet and open the connection to the fresh water supply at the flush valve by turning the large connector next to the valve and pushing the pipe away from the valve. Leave the pipe separated from the flush valve until preparing for use.
5. Empty the two traps under the sinks.
In case you are wondering, I had it in Florida, and we still get freezes here.
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11-23-2008, 11:22 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Posts: 4
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We bought a Lexington 235S x-rental in May and now need to winterize it, but do not have any info with the paperwork.
If anyone here could help with the details of how to go about it, we would really appreciated it.
Thanks in advance.
Gary & Barbara
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11-23-2008, 11:45 AM
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#3
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AKA Bluebird
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtedw
4. Flush toilet and open the connection to the fresh water supply at the flush valve by turning the large connector next to the valve and pushing the pipe away from the valve. Leave the pipe separated from the flush valve until preparing for use.
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I guess that antifreeze in not on your agenda. Frankly, I would not bother with it myself if I lived in FL. This is the first time I've heard of disconnecting the toilet supply line. I think it is a bad idea as the more you break and remake the connection the greater your chance of creating a leak. Instead, you might want to consider opening the flush valve on the toilet as you execute step #3. Seems to me that this would take care of any water in the supply line.
Two other things: don't forget the water filer, and the purchase and use of a blowout plug would further insure that your system is fully drained.
JMHO
__________________
Happy Camping! ///// Richard D.
2006 4x4 Ford 250 SD / 2007 Flagstaff 827 FLS
One very patient wife and one furry child who travels with us. Forty-two years of trailering and camping, and I still have a blast.
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11-23-2008, 11:49 AM
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#4
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AKA Bluebird
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,060
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Just thought of a couple more points. Be sure to flush out the water heater and remember to close the water heater bypass valves before doing anything else.
__________________
Happy Camping! ///// Richard D.
2006 4x4 Ford 250 SD / 2007 Flagstaff 827 FLS
One very patient wife and one furry child who travels with us. Forty-two years of trailering and camping, and I still have a blast.
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11-23-2008, 12:07 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Posts: 4
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Thanks so much for those tips.
Gary & Barbara
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01-03-2009, 07:08 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
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Winterizing
I agree, the manuals should be burned. What i did was emptied all tanks. Filled the Fresh water tank with about 2 gallons of RV antifreeze. Ran the pump till it was pink in ALL faucets. I let some sit in the traps and the shower trap too. I flushed the waterheater also. I was warned that you must flush the ENTIRE system prior to use. If you leave antifreeze in the heater it will stink. I also left some antifreeze in the gray & black tanks. Now as far as the wtrhtr drain valve goes, i havent found one yet. Are you talking about the anoid?
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01-03-2009, 11:43 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,260
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The last camping trip for The Season (Winterizing)
1. Flush and drain Galley tank, Grey tank and Black tank and leave empty I add one bottle of blue chemical treatment to all three tanks and add enough anti-freeze to fill the traps in the tub and sinks.
2. Turn off the hot water heater and pull the hot water heater plug and leave it open, then open all of the faucets including the flush valve to the toilet and I leave that propped open all winter, One would think that it would smell up the camper, no I cover the toilet bowl with plastic wrap and close the lid. I also empty the water filter cylinder as well.
3. The last thing I do is hook up an air line to the city water connection and blow the lines out with air and leave all drains open under the camper all winter long until spring. I have been camping going on 9 years and 8 out of those 9 years I have been doing the samething. I learned a lesson after the first year, I had to replace the hot water heater because I forgot to drain it, and had to replace the flush valve ln the toilet because the lines were full of water and it froze and crack the valve body. The worst part is I did not find both of these problems until we went on ower first camping trip of the season. And yes, check everything after the winter season is over. Hook up a hose from your house and connect it to the city hook up on the camper and test your water lines.
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02-08-2009, 12:19 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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I have never used the antifreeze, just to much of a hassle to flush come spring. I prefer and highly recommend the air fitting that screws into the city water inlet and allows you to connect an air hose to the line and blow the lines clear with compressed air. What little water may still reside in the lines if any is of little concern. In over 20 years of RVing I have never had problems with this method.
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02-08-2009, 05:30 PM
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#9
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CLASS "A" Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Upperco, Maryland
Posts: 3,136
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I've been using anti-freeze for years only because that's what the dealership I bought my Pop-up years ago recommended. After all the work it takes to do it I'm always concerned about getting all the water out. Using a compressor set at 30lbs will definitely do the trick. I plan on following the instructions like everyone that has posted using air next winter. I'll only use antifreeze to pour down the drains to protect the traps. But, I'm really going to miss the hundred trips inside and out while syphoning the anti-freeze into the pump. Quess I'll have to watch TV while the compressor does all the work instead.
COME ON SPRINGTIME !!!!!!!!
__________________
2007 Georgetown 370TS
aka - RAYNMKR
Driver: Charlie
Navigator: Sheri
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02-08-2009, 09:17 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfsoistman
I've been using anti-freeze for years only because that's what the dealership I bought my Pop-up years ago recommended. After all the work it takes to do it I'm always concerned about getting all the water out. Using a compressor set at 30lbs will definitely do the trick. I plan on following the instructions like everyone that has posted using air next winter. I'll only use antifreeze to pour down the drains to protect the traps. But, I'm really going to miss the hundred trips inside and out while syphoning the anti-freeze into the pump. Quess I'll have to watch TV while the compressor does all the work instead.
COME ON SPRINGTIME !!!!!!!!
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cfsoistman, does your GT have the Arctic package? This winter I left a bit of water in my holding tanks and kept the rig plugged in while it was in the garage. I turned on the arctic package to keep the tanks and drain pipes warm and left our fireplace in the rig on it's lowest setting to keep moisture away from the inside of the rig. Inside our garage the temps got down into the teens but no problems with the rig and the inside temp stayed at around 58 degrees. I didn't even drain the fresh water lines, just left the cabinets open. I also left the electric element on in the water heater.
They are calling for more snow for us here on Tuesday just ouside of Seattle. I'm ready for spring myself....
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02-09-2009, 08:43 AM
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#11
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CLASS "A" Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Upperco, Maryland
Posts: 3,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWJeeper
cfsoistman, does your GT have the Arctic package? This winter I left a bit of water in my holding tanks and kept the rig plugged in while it was in the garage. I turned on the arctic package to keep the tanks and drain pipes warm and left our fireplace in the rig on it's lowest setting to keep moisture away from the inside of the rig. Inside our garage the temps got down into the teens but no problems with the rig and the inside temp stayed at around 58 degrees. I didn't even drain the fresh water lines, just left the cabinets open. I also left the electric element on in the water heater.
They are calling for more snow for us here on Tuesday just ouside of Seattle. I'm ready for spring myself....
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Yes I have the artic package. I don't have a garage though for the motorhome. I do have it plugged into a 50 amp circuit that's next to my shed. It's on it's own breaker. I use it pretty regularly each weekend watching football and Nascar races etc. I have my DirecTv Tivo unit out there and record shows for watching later. It's my little retreat in my driveway. I have the strip heaters in the AC units so I can turn them on when it's too cold. They do pretty well keeping the temperature inside comfortable but they are noisey. They're not loud but the sound of the air and fan are noticeable. Most of the time if it's not too cold outside I'll use a portable electric heater. I plug it in at the washer/dryer receptacle since it's on it's own breaker.
We had a great weekend temperature wise. Both days near 60 degrees and clear. I was able to install the new Wingman antenna accessory and it helped my digital reception on the TV. Also was able to replace the broken drawer bracket in the bedroom.
I'm ready for warm weather!!!!!
__________________
2007 Georgetown 370TS
aka - RAYNMKR
Driver: Charlie
Navigator: Sheri
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10-22-2009, 04:25 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwood06
1. Flush and drain Galley tank, Grey tank and Black tank and leave empty I add one bottle of blue chemical treatment to all three tanks and add enough anti-freeze to fill the traps in the tub and sinks.
2. Turn off the hot water heater and pull the hot water heater plug and leave it open, then open all of the faucets including the flush valve to the toilet and I leave that propped open all winter, One would think that it would smell up the camper, no I cover the toilet bowl with plastic wrap and close the lid. I also empty the water filter cylinder as well.
3. The last thing I do is hook up an air line to the city water connection and blow the lines out with air and leave all drains open under the camper all winter long until spring. I have been camping going on 9 years and 8 out of those 9 years I have been doing the samething. I learned a lesson after the first year, I had to replace the hot water heater because I forgot to drain it, and had to replace the flush valve ln the toilet because the lines were full of water and it froze and crack the valve body. The worst part is I did not find both of these problems until we went on ower first camping trip of the season. And yes, check everything after the winter season is over. Hook up a hose from your house and connect it to the city hook up on the camper and test your water lines.
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This is my first year with my camper, I like this winterize method above..I'm against putting antifreeze into my waterlines...it sounds very overkill to me once the drains are emptied and the lines are blown out. My question is, where is this toilet flush value located? Sorry for such a newbie question...
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