2800 qs schwintek slide issue HELP

[charles l]

My closet slideout has started acting up. I finally found the controller under the bed. Motor #2 ( forward motor) starts to push out and then stops while the rear motor wants to continue until it binds. The controller blinks green two times for motor #2 and the red blinks 8 times indicating the hall signal is not present (from the schwintek trouble shooting guide). However the controller label says 8 red is a short. When I reset the controller it all happens the same.


Have any of my fellow schwintek slide users experienced this type of problem? I am leaning towards the controller being bad. I have not ruled out a wiring issue so far. I am not sure how to get to the hidden wires to check. Any help will be appreciated.

[rockfordroo]

Sounds like the motors have gotten out of synch.

Here's a bunch of manuals for you:

[namusmc]

Originally Posted by charles l

My closet slideout has started acting up. I finally found the controller under the bed. Motor #2 ( forward motor) starts to push out and then stops while the rear motor wants to continue until it binds. The controller blinks green two times for motor #2 and the red blinks 8 times indicating the hall signal is not present (from the schwintek trouble shooting guide). However the controller label says 8 red is a short. When I reset the controller it all happens the same.


Have any of my fellow schwintek slide users experienced this type of problem? I am leaning towards the controller being bad. I have not ruled out a wiring issue so far. I am not sure how to get to the hidden wires to check. Any help will be appreciated.

Try to locate the front motor and check the wiring connection near the motor. The motor should be located at the top of the slide. From inside the coach facing the slide, pull back the rubber seal at the top right. This should expose the motor and wiring connections. Make sure the connections are solid and reseal.

I had the same issue with my dual motor slide. Hope this helps.

[charles l]

I will give it a try. If I unplug the motors from the controller would I be able to push the slide out manually? There is no room for me to get at it with the slide retracted.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by charles l

I will give it a try. If I unplug the motors from the controller would I be able to push the slide out manually? There is no room for me to get at it with the slide retracted.

You need to remove the motor to push it out. The gear box on the motor is the restriction on moving the slide.

[koller1509]

In the manual there is an override procedure where you push a button 6 times and hold it the 7th, have you tried this. If it is a the sensor, it's suppose to bypass it to open the slide.

[formerFR]

you do NOT have to remove the motor in order to manually push out or in your slide, only remove the harness(s) from the controller...

another way to help with the 'pushing out' of the slide is to only remove the harness for the effected motor, leaving the other in place...and have someone push the EXTRACT button(out) while you manually push on the end of the slide that has the motor issue.
This way you are only having to handle part of the slide's weight, instead of all of it...

Motors CAN fail infrequently, and are fairly easy to change out - camping world and online rv retailers should generally have them in stock.
One issue with these motors is the connection of the wiring harness to the top of the motor, which has a circuit board that it is soldered to. Sometimes a simple wire can come out of it's solder/or break off. You may can solder it back on, if you're handy...but replacing the motor is generally easier.

You can also 'test' the effected motor, by removing it(make sure to remove the outside wall set screw first), but leaving the harness attached, and reattaching it's harness to the controller - have someone push the extract/retract button while you are holding the motor by it's body - if it's 'cog' end(bottom) turns, then it's good - if not, then there is a wiring or motor problem.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by formerFR

you do NOT have to remove the motor in order to manually push out or in your slide, only remove the harness(s) from the controller...

another way to help with the 'pushing out' of the slide is to only remove the harness for the effected motor, leaving the other in place...and have someone push the EXTRACT button(out) while you manually push on the end of the slide that has the motor issue.
This way you are only having to handle part of the slide's weight, instead of all of it...

Motors CAN fail infrequently, and are fairly easy to change out - camping world and online rv retailers should generally have them in stock.
One issue with these motors is the connection of the wiring harness to the top of the motor, which has a circuit board that it is soldered to. Sometimes a simple wire can come out of it's solder/or break off. You may can solder it back on, if you're handy...but replacing the motor is generally easier.

You can also 'test' the effected motor, by removing it(make sure to remove the outside wall set screw first), but leaving the harness attached, and reattaching it's harness to the controller - have someone push the extract/retract button while you are holding the motor by it's body - if it's 'cog' end(bottom) turns, then it's good - if not, then there is a wiring or motor problem.

How many times have you pushed a schwintec slide out out are in with the motor in place ? i can tell you it's almost impossible even with 5 or 6 big guys . best to just remove the motor .

[formerFR]

several times - if you remove the 12v to the motor controller(pulling the motor harness), the slide is then free to move. The 12v power is what 'brakes' the motor, keeping it from moving while traveling.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by formerFR

several times - if you remove the 12v to the motor controller(pulling the motor harness), the slide is then free to move. The 12v power is what 'brakes' the motor, keeping it from moving while traveling.

been there done that . the only way is to remove the motor . the gearing on the motor is to much . can't even move the motor gearing once pulled though the slide can be pushed by one person with the motors out . with the motors in disconnected good luck .

[formerFR]

https://www.amlrv.com/wp-content/upl...l-override.pdf

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by formerFR

https://www.amlrv.com/wp-content/upl...l-override.pdf

I know the schwintek slide manual and operations . I also know disconnecting the motors from the harness will NOT allow the motors to just turn easy . been there done that . the only real way is to remove the motors . if the override does not work then it's pull motors . many times the wires heading into the motor will brake , don't know why they use such small wiring . but either way to prevent damage motors need removed to move slide by hand regardless of what lippert says

[charles l]

I have tried the bypass on the controller. It trips again after retracting the slide. Max movement is about 2-3 inches.

[TryingToLearn]

It is CRITICAL that everything be aligned within 1/4 inch. I was also informed by a very reliable source (tech) that if you have the full slide & have a passenger riding in the dinette, you should have a wedge under the inside end while travelling to prevent the up & down movement (no matter how slight) that can create havoc with the track & gear.


Proper method for using slide is to hold the button until you hear both motors stop, going in or out. This keeps them in timing. To retime, extend all the way then repeat this 3 times: bring it in about 1/4 of the way & out all the way.

Bring it in all the way and hold button until both motors stop. This will retime the motors.



I tried using the controller to fix my issue but just ended up making it worse. Lippert Components Inc came to the rescue after I spent a considerable amount of time and money with a dealer.


SCHWINTEK CUSTOMER SERVICE 574-537-8900 : you can talk with a tech here to help identify possibilities. I had no doubt where my issue was and I contacted Tiffany 574-361-3079 at LCI to set up a mobile tech appointment. She was wonderful and the tech was knowledgeable, swift and ended up 2 1/2 hours to replace a track & motor where the dealer said the entire slide had to be taken out to do this and would take about 9 hours!!!!

[canmes]

I had my Lacrosse back to the dealer for warranty repair on my Schwintek bedroom slide three times before the finally looked at the wiring harness that ran across the top of the slide on the inside..... Guess what FIXED.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by MR.M

I know the schwintek slide manual and operations . I also know disconnecting the motors from the harness will NOT allow the motors to just turn easy . been there done that . the only real way is to remove the motors . if the override does not work then it's pull motors . many times the wires heading into the motor will brake , don't know why they use such small wiring . but either way to prevent damage motors need removed to move slide by hand regardless of what lippert says

I agree MR.M, just removing the wiring harness did not allow the slide to move on either of the two I worked on.

formerFR... I've always thought it odd that the procedure to disconnect the harness to move the slide (part 2. on page three) was followed by a section to REMOVE the motors to move the slide. (part 3. page three)

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by 5picker

I agree MR.M, just removing the wiring harness did not allow the slide to move on either of the two I worked on.

formerFR... I've always thought it odd that the procedure to disconnect the harness to move the slide (part 2. on page three) was followed by a section to REMOVE the motors to move the slide. (part 3. page three)

That is correct , thanks for the back up . I've tired the disconnect motors and tried the push in route to no avail .

[Mipo]

The schwintek systems are a nightmare.
Have one that does not sync. Have to use emergency mode to open & close, but not all the way because the limit is also disabled and motors do not stop as soon when there is restriction.
Change the controler, it was defective from factory the emergency switch button was missing, support told me it was impossible.
Changed the motor indicated by the flashing code.
Changed the wiring harness even if I continuity tested the original harness.
Tried every trick and ways I found in the documents, on support and forums.

Nothing will fix the darn schwintek.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Mipo

The schwintek systems are a nightmare.
Have one that does not sync. Have to use emergency mode to open & close, but not all the way because the limit is also disabled and motors do not stop as soon when there is restriction.
Change the controler, it was defective from factory the emergency switch button was missing, support told me it was impossible.
Changed the motor indicated by the flashing code.
Changed the wiring harness even if I continuity tested the original harness.
Tried every trick and ways I found in the documents, on support and forums.

Nothing will fix the darn schwintek.

Yes they can be a pain . but most work good . lots of problem with the install more then the system . if it's not installed just right it will cause you to pull your hair out .