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Old 11-20-2015, 11:12 AM   #1
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2860DS Winter Questions

I live in SE Washington and it was 27 last night. Its heading for the low 20's this week with highs in the days at 40's I have Artic pack. I would like to be able to use the MH with at least cold water to everything so I can blow out/ drain the hot water heater and bypass it. I've been running the heat pump at 45 degrees and nothing has frozen so far. It CAN get a lot colder here though, very possible 0 degrees but its usually rare.
I like to use the refrig and icemaker. Hot water not needed. I have a 30 amp shore power connection but don't want to use a ton of electricity. I also have the outside kitchen with sink. I am also using water from my fresh water tank, not city water connection.

So questions are: (Based on using shore power only preferred)

How cold are the Artic Pacs good for and will they protect the plumbing and the outside kitchen area and kitchen sink holding tank?
If not how can I protect it?

I'm guessing the heat pump may not work at temps below freezing?

Does the MH heater run on propane only? I'd like to run it at a low setting but don't want to use propane. seems to be conflicting ideas of using just the furnace fan to circulate the air in the MH.

What is the best way to have cold water in the MH?

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:03 PM   #2
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20s is cold and creates risk of freezing for anything not within the heated compartments. What is in or out depends on your own model. However the outside sink is certainly at risk and the lines running to it. The city water port, black flush port and external shower or sprayer are all at risk of freezing if they have water in them. Low water drain points and the fresh water drain line are outside the box so also at risk. Perhaps that's enough to indicate water in the lines will put you at risk of freezing.


The Arctic packs are intended to get you over the hump a bit and will heat the gray and black tanks to help prevent freezing. I can't say how cold they will protect you to. However, they will not protect any other components of the water system but those tanks.


Don't forget your water heater. If it's on it will stay hot of course but again that doesn't speak to what's in the h/w line remote from the heater. If it's going to be off you can (should?) drain it.


The heat pump is more of a chill chaser, yes it does put out heat to a point but of course it doesn't circulate throughout the unit and just blows into the living room. The heat pump coils will freeze up below around 42 and will start automatic defrost cycles (if yours is set up like mine) during which it reverses and heats the coils while blowing the cold air into the MH - not pleasant. The heat pump will shut off below a certain point (30 I think - can't find the spec sheet at the moment!). The furnace is what is intended for serious heating needs.


If you have shore power you can use an electric space heater. Just watch the amp load on your system with everything else you may use. Watts = Volts x Amps. So if you have a 2400 watt heater at 120V, that's 20 amps. Other items likely to draw a lot of amps are anything with a heating element such as hair dryer, coffee pot, convection oven. Also microwave oven draws a lot of power. You can turn the heater off when using those if needed. If you use a space heater, you can use the heat/ac fan on low to circulate air throughout the unit. The blowing air may or may not be comfortable to all (this is basically blowing "cold" air to circulate the air when you aren't using the furnace so it's not blowing "hot" air). With space heaters be very vigilant about fire prevention (towels, rugs, curtains, children, pets).


Your propane furnace will work very well if you are willing to use it and it will circulate through the air ducts and heat the whole unit nicely. It runs on "propane only" so to speak but requires electricity to run the fan as well as of course a small bit for the thermostat and igniter.


Cold water options - bring it in jugs from the store or home, or in one or more large, collapsible 5-gal. water container.
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-200001.../dp/B000088O9Y
Keep a bucket or gallon jug in the bathroom for flushing use.
Anything you keep inside the heated compartment will be fine.
If you need hot water, use the stove or microwave.


I hope some of this helps.
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:49 PM   #3
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Thanks MNtraveler for the great reply. I want to just blow the lines out so I can use the coach without putting in antifreeze several times but I like a little heat in the coach also. I put RV antifreeze in last year. wasn't hard but time consuming
Thanks again
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:03 PM   #4
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Happy to help. It fell to 24 last night in MN and now we have 1/2" of ice on the pond in our yard (speaking of winterizing, the pond was pumped out but it filled again with rain water and then the pump conked out - have a new pump to install and re-drain the pond - it will rise to the low 40s this week).
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:35 PM   #5
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Yes.. I'm behind on everything this year. My rule is everything water winterized by oct 31. It was so nice here this year and so much to do I let it slip. Didnt get my end of summer mh trip either. I bought the bullet after blowing out and put rv antifreeze in.I'm afraid of a cold winter. Its heading to below 20 shortly. Thanks again for the response
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:40 PM   #6
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You will sleep better now!
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Old 11-22-2015, 10:38 AM   #7
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I am thinking of installing heat pads with a thermo switch for my tanks, also need a heated water line to hook up. Has any one diy arctic mods and if so what worked best.
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