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Old 03-11-2018, 08:02 AM   #1
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About to buy 2018 2290SC

Hello,

If any of you also browse over on the Forester specific sub-forum, you know that I had a deal for a 2017 Forester 2290SC the fell through. So, having learned that the Sunseeker is pretty much a Forester w/o the skirt paint, fiberglass running boards, and a few other small things we went down the road and put a deposit on a 2018 Sunseeker.

Iím having the dealer install Bigfoot levelers, otherwise is 95% spec for spec w/ the Forester I punted on.

At any rate I wanted to say hello to everybody here, and ask if there was anything Sunseeker related in particular I should be aware of? I will not be sad to see the Lippert tablet control panel go away in favor of buttons thatís for sure. The one I was going to buy had the generator hour reporting problem (and the dealer screwed up by not fixing it before I was supposed to take the unit home - among many other things).

Anybody have the Air Command Atwood AC/heat pump on theirs? Iíve read positive things (18k BTU equiv performance).

Thanks in advance and hello !
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:08 AM   #2
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As you have already said the Forester and Sunseeker are basically the same unit. The Forester just has more "bling" and the Lippert tablet . There are no Sunseeker specific issues to be aware of other than you will get to test more switches during your PDI...
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:24 AM   #3
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Good luck and safe travels with your new unit. I have the Atwood AirCommand and so far, I love it. Mostly because it is so quiet. The 18k btu rating is a combined number that is all done with mirrors. As you can see from my posts, I have done many mods/upgrades/alterations before our 1st trip. I also spent 4 hours on our PDI. My suggestion is that you hold their feet to the fire and get things right before you drive off the lot.
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:58 AM   #4
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I have the heat pump in my Sunseeker and it works very well. A real propane saver!

The only goofy problem I've had is with the Big Foot. Every once in a while all the control panel lights start blinking and the system won't work. It's an easy fix but one I had to do every once in a while. Unscrew the Big Foot panel, pull out the wire harness connector from it, wait a minute, then plug it back in and replace the panel. At one point I was considering putting a switch in line so I could de-energize the panel instead. But the problem seems to have gone away.

The only other problem I've had is with the slideout. I have a 3050s that has a full side slide, it's huge. Apparently, no surprise though, they didn't check to make sure when they installed the wire harness to the slide motor that the wires were tied out of the way. So the slide hit the wires and after a few hits it wore through the wire insulation shorting the motor. The slide was stuck out. I was left to push that 25 foot slide back in by myself.

So you should think about checking for that potential problem. The good thing that came out of that is I biught 2 slider locks that I never thought of buying. So if it happens again I won't have to rig up some Rube Goldberg to keep the slide in as I drive down the road.🤥
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1njin View Post
Hello,

If any of you also browse over on the Forester specific sub-forum, you know that I had a deal for a 2017 Forester 2290SC the fell through. So, having learned that the Sunseeker is pretty much a Forester w/o the skirt paint, fiberglass running boards, and a few other small things we went down the road and put a deposit on a 2018 Sunseeker.

Iím having the dealer install Bigfoot levelers, otherwise is 95% spec for spec w/ the Forester I punted on.

At any rate I wanted to say hello to everybody here, and ask if there was anything Sunseeker related in particular I should be aware of? I will not be sad to see the Lippert tablet control panel go away in favor of buttons thatís for sure. The one I was going to buy had the generator hour reporting problem (and the dealer screwed up by not fixing it before I was supposed to take the unit home - among many other things).

Anybody have the Air Command Atwood AC/heat pump on theirs? Iíve read positive things (18k BTU equiv performance).

Thanks in advance and hello !
Good Luck getting in & out of the bed !!!
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:17 AM   #6
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DW is on the 'wrong' side of the bed.
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:46 AM   #7
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DW is on the 'wrong' side of the bed.
Looks to me like both sides are the wrong side !!!
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:47 AM   #8
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One side is better wrong then the other !
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Old 03-15-2018, 01:38 PM   #9
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I have a SS2290SC, custom-ordered last summer, received September 2017. I ordered to get Chevy chassis which was very rare in dealer inventory. I could not accept Ford chassis, had two and they ruined otherwise good motorhomes.

I LOVE my Sunseeker with Chevy Express 4500 chassis, so much quieter than Ford, cockpit much easier to enter/exit/live in, ride much smoother too.

Of course there were new-rig issues, still working through some 6 months later, the service shop saying they can't get needed parts from FR.

Do PDI very carefully. I found drawer rails improperly mounted, and bottoms dropped out. Cabinets over dinette lack latches so anything up there would launch into space, added latches. Dash radio would not activate on ACC position, apparently Chevy does not provide for this on after-market radios, instead added a power line and switch to separately control radio (better because don't need to use key to use radio). Dash radio had zero reception because it had an antenna splitter to also feed house Jensen radio; result was that neither radio could receive stations. I dismantled dash enough to remove splitter, plugged antenna directly into radio which now works. But Jensen house radio is now antenna-less, FR promised to send bat-wing antenna but has not (yet?). These were factory decisions so likely affect multiple rigs.

Surprise: There's a storage compartment under dinette, outside hatch with 3 latches. I kept finding it hanging open, thinking I forgot to close it. Then I saw it flop open driving down the street. I discovered the 3 latch holes were drilled incorrectly, not straight across, but angling away from the door edge. So only the first latch held, sort of, the other two did not actually "grab" because the cams were too short. One of them was the lock, so the compartment had not been secure. I bought a replacement cam lock for $9 that had two longer cams, put them on my latches (2 minute job, did not need the new lock), and now the door reliably latches.

Big screw-up: I ordered Kitchen option 305, which is convection microwave, and cabinet instead of propane oven. It's right on all the paperwork, but factory did not do it, dealer did not notice. I was told it would be fixed promptly, but 6 months later still waiting for parts from FR to correct this mistake.

One thing to watch for: Tire valves access. When I received the coach I suspected tires were low, then discovered I could only get a gauge on a couple of the six valves, sure enough they were low. Worse I could only get air hose on two of the valves. The problem was the tire "hub caps" (liners) blocked the valves. I pulled these off and could then set my tires appropriately. Was my motorhome driven from Indiana to California with low air? The final solution (I hope) has been to add valve extenders.

However, even better would be to replace the valves with longer ones. I did this to a Sprinter-based coach 5 years ago, went to Tireman in Ridgeway California, Chuck claims to be the inventor of the best way to do this to dually tires, a solution he says has been poorly copied by others. I haven't done that (yet) to my Chevy tires since price tag was about $500 including parts and labor. I spent the night in Chuck's yard, he provided power.
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Old 03-16-2018, 10:01 AM   #10
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Good Luck with your little Bow Tie !!!
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