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Old 11-15-2015, 10:54 PM   #31
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Send a picture like you showed us to your dealer so he is aware of the situation. Follow up with a phone call. As long as you register the problem now, he might allow a delay before correcting this under warranty.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:18 PM   #32
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Send a picture like you showed us to your dealer so he is aware of the situation. Follow up with a phone call. As long as you register the problem now, he might allow a delay before correcting this under warranty.
Good advice. I was planning to contact the dealer tomorrow. We bought it at McGeorge's Rolling Hills RV in Ashland, VA. We will be passing through the area on our way to Florida later this month and it would be good for them to have a heads up.

We had a great experience purchasing from this dealership and I'm confident they will take care of us if any action is required.
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:02 AM   #33
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Hi,

Your front bulkhead is loosening. There are screws that hold the bulkhead to the frame. It is more decoration than structural, but not to be ignored. You may have jumped a curb or hit a large chuck hole. To repair, take off the rubber strips that cover the molding on the outside edge of the bulkhead. You will see screws where the rubber strips where. Some should be lose and others missing. They are self taping about a quarter inch long. They should attach to an aluminum frame. Get half inch screws one size larger and replace all the existing screws on all four sides. You may find it necessary to add more screws near or at curves. It is OK to add more screws. If your rig is new, this repair is under warranty. If you are not handy, have an RV shop do the work. Make sure and reseal all molding.
This is ridiculous. Mine is the same way, as is many others as replied on this thread.
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:26 AM   #34
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Totally normal...my 3100ss looks the same. The black plastic corner piece allows for a one piece metal molding with a smooth curve, as opposed to two pieces miter cut at a 90 degree angle. This is how my old Coachman was...the plastic trim looked like crap since it was smashed in the channel at 90 degrees, and when it popped out, it was a PITA to get back in. This setup is much nicer.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:25 AM   #35
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Class C MH are built at different locations and different assembly ways as other FR products. Each have their own set of parts to deal with. Like comparing apples to oanges, yes its an RV but they are different.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:57 AM   #36
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This piece of trim is used Simply for aesthetics. None the less it needs to be fixed. To get it back to where it was you can heat it up and run a bead of glue down the back side and stick it back up there.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:18 PM   #37
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This piece of trim is used Simply for aesthetics. None the less it needs to be fixed. To get it back to where it was you can heat it up and run a bead of glue down the back side and stick it back up there.
Stick it back in where? It's already in there. It couldn't be any more in there. When I push on it it doesn't move. Good to know it's only decorative, but I do think that it needs to be caulked on all three edges.

Given the variety of responses, I'm thinking that a picture is not enough to convey what is going on with this. If I boil down all the comments, I think I can be reasonably assured that this isn't a real problem. I'm still waiting to hear back from FR Service.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:52 PM   #38
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SS Cruiser. Yours didn't fall out. Sealing it was proper. FYI Joshua Cavitt is our go to on this forum.
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Old 11-20-2015, 02:56 PM   #39
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Let me clear up any speculation since there seems to be a lot of "jumping to conclusions".

The part in question is a black plastic block in the first picture, not the white plastic screw cap. Previously when a Class C is built, that section USED to be a 90 degree angle. In fact it still is...sort of. The framing structure is till 90 degrees...however many customers felt that a radius there would be more "aesthetically pleasing".

So...the framing is still built at a 90 degree angle, but the skin (as all our units are) hangs over the edges of the framing. The line will then ADD the radius corner block in that area and then route the fiberglass skin off along the radius. There is nothing wrong with that picture. You could take the block out, route the skin to 90 degrees and and add the trim back and boom, no more plastic block. The only thing that could be said is that the radius block could be more aesthetically pleasing from the cab area. Plant could have used white...but those blocks don't come in white and they already used those for radius window corners. So with a part they already stock they were able to get a nice curve on that section. They have been running them that way for probably 4-5 years (or more) and no one said a thing.
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:02 PM   #40
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bclemens, thanks so much for clearing that up. I'm sorry if my previous comment seemed a bit snarky, but I was getting frustrated by the variety of responses I was getting, many of which didn't seem to apply to my situation.

I never did think that there was anything wrong structurally. I just thought that it looked unfinished and I was concerned about the lack of sealant on the leading edge of the black insert.

I sealed it up today with Proflex and now I'll move on. I haven't heard back from FR Service, but that's a mute point now. Thanks again.
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