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Old 03-03-2015, 03:02 AM   #11
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I use the ready brute also. Much simpler design that works well, and cost much less. Installed the cable on my Jeep TJ myself in about an hour.

On my Jeep the brakes work fine without the vacuum assistance.
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:30 PM   #12
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M&G Engineering. No batteries to charge, no toad power being used, no boxes/cables/brackets to mess with. Just hook up the lights and the air (small compressor installed under my 3100ss) and we're off. It's a little pricey to install but way easier than having to deal with and store the boxes, etc. and never have to worry about killing the battery in the Jeep. Other nice thing is that it's truly proportional...no gain adjustments, surge, etc.
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:41 PM   #13
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Hoglou. It's been a while since you posted this reply. I just purchased a 2015 Georgetown and a 2010 Jeep Liberty to use as a toad. There are too many toad brake systems to understand. The top discussion leaders seem to be Patriot, Roadmaster, RVi (perhaps more). While the Patriot seems quick and perhaps the least expensive at $999, is there a better choice? A few hundred dollars for a better system would be worth it if there is one.
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Old 03-09-2015, 12:38 PM   #14
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stop that!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but if money was not a great limiting factor a permanent mount system would probably be best long term. I toad a 2 door JK behind the smallest coach here (2300 on a 4500 chassis). The patriot does want it should, was reasonable (a grand), and keeps me legal everywhere.

If the lotto hits and we move to a Phaeton and a f150 raptor 4x4 toad I would go with a hard mount brake. Dreaming aside I like the way the current system works. The nice part is that I can tow my jeep with my current 150 so the DW and I can ride down to the beach together, but then I can go back to the barn days earlier do to the job and DW can stay as she wished visiting the grandkids. I do recommend permanent power for me anyway.
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Old 03-09-2015, 03:19 PM   #15
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Hoglou,
Do you have a knowledgeable preference for a hard mount?


BTW, I just read a thread on RVNet about moisture problems causing brake lockups with the RVi. About ten people responded to the thread stating they had the same problem with brakes that suddenly locked causing near-disasterous results. Factory apparently tells customers how to address some of the main problems (uncoated taillight wiring and malfunction internal diode issues) but appears non-committal about a recall or permanent fix!
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:39 PM   #16
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I dont have any input for hard mounts. I do run a isolated and seperate tail light assembly so I do not use any JK wiring to run my lights.
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:16 PM   #17
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Thanks. Last night, I went ahead and purchased the Blue Ox Patriot for a few reasons: more affordable ($999 - factory controlled price), ease of installation, and the fact that I couldn't find anyone saying anything bad about them except for toad battery drainage (many seem to have this same problem), which appears only to occur some time after 7-8 hours of towing. A wiring harness (no splicing needed) is available to run the Patriot 12v power off the motorhome battery. For $79.95, I bought the wiring harness that powers the running lights and runs the brake lights off the motorhome, i.e. it cancels the toad brake light and inserts the motorhome brake light signal in its place. This results in a much more accurate toad brake signal since the RV and the toad brakes may activate at somewhat different sensitivities.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:04 PM   #18
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Is anyone using the surge-type brake systems like ReadyBrake or the Blue Ox AutoStop?


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Old 03-11-2015, 10:16 PM   #19
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Vince and Charlotte,

Where did you find the wiring harness for $79.95?


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Old 03-11-2015, 11:16 PM   #20
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I got the harness from etrailer.com. I have gone to them for much of my stuff when I had a fiver, and still do now that I drive a Class A.
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