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Old 05-25-2014, 10:07 AM   #1
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BEWARE: 2013 Sunseeker water leak

I have a 2013 Sunseeker 2860DS. The past week has been quite rainy. Yesterday I noticed the back interior wall had buckled due to water leakage. The area of damage is on the wall where the ladder is located outside. The damage could also be from the rear window. Of course this is really upsetting to have water damage on an 18 month old unit.

I siliconed the ladder struts where they connect to the unit as well as the rear window. My damage is already done, this is just a warning to beware that even new units can leak.

I

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Old 05-25-2014, 11:19 AM   #2
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Wow, thanks for the warning

2014 Sunseeker 3010DS, 2001 Jeep Cherokee toad
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:23 AM   #3
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I have a 2012, 2650 and have frequently noticed noticed water dripping onto the windshield from the rubber seam cap covering the seam between the front cap and the main body overhang. I always thought it was just condensation dripping down, but this time, luckily, I pried it open with a putty knife and about 2 qts leaked out over the next several hours. I was shocked.

I found that there were gaps between the rubber seals and the openings in the fiberglass behind the top of all the front running light fixtures. I had to caulk all of them to close the gaps. They are hard to get to and I guess I had only cleaned the recessed area behind the running lights from the roof and couldn't see behind the top of the light fixtures. I just hope the interior of the front cap will dry out as there isn't any way to get to it. As a precaution, I did drill three small weep holes in the rubber seal to alert me to any future leaks.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:03 PM   #4
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I made the dealer go around every window and reseal them before i would take it home again. Big ass gaps between the frame and the side wall. almost like the side walls are to thin for the frame being used. or they did not crank the screws down real good to compress it all together.
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
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I made the dealer go around every window and reseal them before i would take it home again. Big ass gaps between the frame and the side wall. almost like the side walls are to thin for the frame being used. or they did not crank the screws down real good to compress it all together.
Those gaps are caused by the rubber automotive D seal that we use. A while back we used butyl tape, but every summer that oozes out and after talking to the window supplier they recommend a rubber D-seal anyway. Caulking them certainly doesn't hurt anything, but its not necessary.

It is not because the wall is too thin, it is not because they don't crank them down all the way. That is all by design. Also works best with full body paint. Cleaner line, no caulk to worry about. But again, caulking it won't hurt anything if you choose to do so. Almost all the laminated units (trailers, etc) are going am automotive bulb seal for these same reasons.
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:25 PM   #6
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Unfotunately another leak was just discovered. This one caused the floor between the stove and kitchen sink cabinet to buckle. It looks like the little window to the right of the kitchen sink is the culprit and its seal too must have leaked.

This is really upsetting as I usually maintain anything I own in like new condition. This water damage is taking all the wind out of my sails regarding my RV...


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Old 05-27-2014, 05:32 PM   #7
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This doesn't seem all that possible. If the window leaks the water would still need to get past the countertop caulking to get to the floor??? Sure it wasn't a leak at the tap or something?
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:43 PM   #8
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Those gaps are caused by the rubber automotive D seal that we use. A while back we used butyl tape, but every summer that oozes out and after talking to the window supplier they recommend a rubber D-seal anyway. Caulking them certainly doesn't hurt anything, but its not necessary.

It is not because the wall is too thin, it is not because they don't crank them down all the way. That is all by design. Also works best with full body paint. Cleaner line, no caulk to worry about. But again, caulking it won't hurt anything if you choose to do so. Almost all the laminated units (trailers, etc) are going am automotive bulb seal for these same reasons.

That makes me feel better.

It was alarming to us because in many spots we could just see edge of the window cut out. It looked like the seal was just barely engaging it. The seal looked grey-ish and sort of lumpy. So ya pretty big gap being i could see that edge pretty good. I am glad the dealer agreed to take care of us. Helps me sleep better at night. LOL

My last motor home leaked around the back window and delaminated . All i could see was that happening again.

Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:44 AM   #9
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bclemens, the floor buckling happened basically in the little area between the slideout and the sink cabinet. Removing the drawer, its completely dry inside the sink cabinet. No faucet or drain leaks.

What do you feel caused my rear wall delamination; the back window or the rear ladder?

Should I go around and caulk all my windows??

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Old 05-28-2014, 09:42 AM   #10
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On the rear wall, I would only be guessing. I find it hard to believe that it is the ladder, because those get screwed into backer...the water would have to come through the backer material and those screws should not come all the way through.

In the only other unit I have seen this on was when their windows would condensate. At the bottom middle of the window there was a tiny little gap where the window frame met (normally welded by the window mfg, but in this case not all that well). So instead of the condensation dripping out over the edge of the window, onto the wall board where it was visible, the water would find that little gap and soak into the edge of the wall board. They ended up putting a little bead of caulk at that gap in the window frame so the condensation would either evaporate in the track or go out over the edge where they could see it and address it.
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