Big Foot Auto Leveling - First Weekend Out

[Jmsx2]

Hello Gang,

We just came back from our first weekend with our new 3050S. Overall a great weekend, however we have a few questions and not sure if it should be a concern with the Auto Leveling Jacks.

The site we were on had a slight sloap to it! When we engage the Auto Level feature on Big Foot Jacks the rear tires lifted off the ground. I took a level and the Big Foot Jacks did what they're suppose to do, level the Coach. It truly was a slight slope, which surprise us this happened.

So here's a few questions:

1. Is it okay to leave the rear wheels off the ground with out damaging the jacks? I did put blocks under the jacks to minimize wiggle which we had a lot of wiggle!

I then drove the Coach up on blocks (outer rear tires) to take up some of the load. Still wasn't enough (more blocks may have made a difference).

2. Having the Coach's outer tires sitting on blocks, can that cause damage?

3. Can the more experienced Coach Members share with us what they do when situations like this comes up?

As always, thanks for any information that you can share.

John & Janine

[RvBill3]

I don't have automatic levelers, so can't answer some of your questions. I use lynx blocks to level. One thing I do know--if you put blocks under the rear wheels you must block both the inside and outside tires on the dual wheels. The suspension and tires are designed to support the weight of the MH when working together. Putting blocks under just the inside or just the outside tires will cause damage to the suspension.

[Jmsx2]

RvBill3.

If I was a betting man, I'd believe you're right. That was a concern of my, however I did run out of lynx blocks as I used them under my Jacks.
Most of the weight was on the Jacks and very little on the tires once I raised it.

I'm thinking the thing to do under situations like this is to drive the Coach up on leveling blocks close to level (both inner and outer tires), then engage the Auto Jacks. This should minimize the lift and all is good.

If anyone thinks this is the way to go, let me know.

Thanks again.

[paulmlac]

The issue with the rear wheels off the ground isn't damaging the jacks but the park feature of the transmission not working. Rear wheels need to have contact with the ground (or something such as pads touching the ground). Otherwise could roll away.

Three options:

Use pads under all four rear tires

Move coach forward or backward some to get more level

Turn coach around so front lifts off the ground

[lbrunning]

When I set my 3170 with the big foot levelers on a site with a slope I first get close to level with blocks then deploy the levelers and use 2 wheel chocks for added safety. The suspension does not have much travel so i always figure the rear tires are not holding much weight any way so i use the chocks.

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by paulmlac

The issue with the rear wheels off the ground isn't damaging the jacks but the park feature of the transmission not working. Rear wheels need to have contact with the ground (or something such as pads touching the ground). Otherwise could roll away.

Three options:

Use pads under all four rear tires

Move coach forward or backward some to get more level

Turn coach around so front lifts off the ground

You are absolutely correct.. The Transmission and E-Brake means nothing when the back wheels are off the ground. I was in very soft gravel and I did chock the front wheels.

Using pads under all four rear tires makes a ton of sense and plan on doing so moving forward when this occurs again. Depending on the situation, turning the Coach around can be an option.

Thanks..

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by lbrunning

When I set my 3170 with the big foot levelers on a site with a slope I first get close to level with blocks then deploy the levelers and use 2 wheel chocks for added safety. The suspension does not have much travel so i always figure the rear tires are not holding much weight any way so i use the chocks.

I was surprised at how little travel the rear suspension has. With that said I will be going out an buying more leveling blocks before we head out on our next venture.

I also use blocks under the Jacks. Figure the less travel for them, the less wiggle we'll have with the Coach when walking around inside.

Thanks for responding to our question.

[bubbles]

Every Big Foot system I have had allowed manual levelling if needed and I did not have to rely on the auto function. Actually, manually levelled most of the time. I currently have a Lippert and it is the same. Oh well.

[PAWDWCamper]

My new 3170 has BF level system and it seems to always bring my front tires off the ground and still not level, front low. I think I saw someone talking about calibrating the BF system. Maybe that would help, or we all go to manual leveling feature.

[ATVer]

Originally Posted by PAWDWCamper

My new 3170 has BF level system and it seems to always bring my front tires off the ground and still not level, front low. I think I saw someone talking about calibrating the BF system. Maybe that would help, or we all go to manual leveling feature.

Your manual has the procedure to calibrate the system. However if your front wheels are off the ground and the front is still low the jacks probably are at their limits. When a jack hits it's end of travel the system just stops since it has done all it can. I personally think you should never leave a wheel off the ground. It makes for lots of wiggle and puts maximum twisting motion on the frame due to the off center jack mounting sometimes with the damaging results that have been posted here. Either leave the coach a little off level to keep the wheels down, block up the wheels, move to a more level part of the site or find another site that is more level.

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by ATVer

Your manual has the procedure to calibrate the system. However if your front wheels are off the ground and the front is still low the jacks probably are at their limits. When a jack hits it's end of travel the system just stops since it has done all it can. I personally think you should never leave a wheel off the ground. It makes for lots of wiggle and puts maximum twisting motion on the frame due to the off center jack mounting sometimes with the damaging results that have been posted here. Either leave the coach a little off level to keep the wheels down, block up the wheels, move to a more level part of the site or find another site that is more level.

You are correct, with our rear wheels off the ground we did have some wiggle going on. Unfortunately moveing the Coach forward or backwards would not have given us a more level area.

I'll be picking up some additional leveling blocks so my wheels no longer dangle! Get the rig close to level with the blocks, put some jack pads down and then hit Auto Level. I'll be purchasing enough leveling blocks for all four rear wheels. Should cure my situation for the next time.

[PAWDWCamper]

Originally Posted by ATVer

Your manual has the procedure to calibrate the system. However if your front wheels are off the ground and the front is still low the jacks probably are at their limits. When a jack hits it's end of travel the system just stops since it has done all it can. I personally think you should never leave a wheel off the ground. It makes for lots of wiggle and puts maximum twisting motion on the frame due to the off center jack mounting sometimes with the damaging results that have been posted here. Either leave the coach a little off level to keep the wheels down, block up the wheels, move to a more level part of the site or find another site that is more level.

I have tried a bubble level in several areas of the camper and found it to be more level before we put the jacks down (not by much). I even put blocks under the feet of all four levelers so I could be sure they didn't max out. I truely think my issue is as simple as a calibration and maybe this thread originator's is too.

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by PAWDWCamper

I have tried a bubble level in several areas of the camper and found it to be more level before we put the jacks down (not by much). I even put blocks under the feet of all four levelers so I could be sure they didn't max out. I truely think my issue is as simple as a calibration and maybe this thread originator's is too.

Although learning the system in terms of manual mode and recalibration proceedures is something we'll learn as we go. Our original concern was the rear wheels coming up off the ground as the Automatic Mode takes the Coach to level. Keep in mind, the Levelers are doing what they are suppose to do and we confirmed that by using a bubble level.

We've learned that the rear suspension has minimal travel when trying to level the Coach on a site that has a slight slope. Someone in an earlier post on this thread suggested using leveling blocks under all four rear tires when faced with this type of site. Advice well taken.

Thanks again everyone for your great responses..