black top vs. rocks for storage

[dsiegler]

I believe anything is better than grass/vegetation if you have mouse problems. If I may add another question about storage, what do people think about tires developing flat spots over winter (which can cause tread separation?) if one does not jack up their unit?

[aircommuter]

Tires can get flat spots and it can lead to problems. As for the excavation and compaction prior to placing the rock, it should be done prior building anything. Get rid of grass and other deleterious material, then compact the soil. This is standard construction procedure. When we do it on jobs we also are required to have the compaction tested. Not so critical if you are just placing rock. For yourself.

[Velosprout]

I used crushed roadpack limestone in my RV garage over a base of (cheaper) river rock. It was cheaper than concrete, allows for drainage for water, and can be raked out if needed. I have used limestone gravel floored pole barn storage for farm machinery for decades. Concrete has only been poured for a shop area. Blacktop or oil-and-chip will be more expensive and depressions occur under the parked tires not easy to repair as just raking gravel.

[Campgonzo]

Originally Posted by Ridpath88

I am about to build a parking spot for our Sunseeker next to my garage. I have been told it can't sit on the grass or the moisture will kill my brake lines over the winter. Do I need to black top it or can I just lay a few inches of rocks and have it sit on the rock bed? Also, should it be slightly sloped to allow the water to run off the roof? I plan on putting a roof on next year, won't get it done this year. Thanks.

Aren't your brakes electric? Electric brakes do not have brake lines.

All good info about parking surfaces though!

[Oaklevel]

Y'All can do what you want, is one better than another ??? I do not know.

All I can say I have been leaving vehicles on gravel or grass for years with no ill effects.

[katkt]

If the tires aren’t on a well drained surface like concrete, asphalt or gravel, put something like 2x8’s under the tires. Sunlight and sitting on wet ground, will tear the tires up quicker then anything. When I had my Class C stationary for a couple years, I invested in a set of tire covers to keep the sun off them.
In all likelihood, you will be replacing the tires because of age, before they start showing checking etc. There are exceptions to this. As they age, they get less flexible and pliable.
Somebody linked to a Goodyear article awhile back, that had recommendations for tire storage. It suggested inflating the tires to help discourage flat spots, to removing and stacking them flat after reducing the pressure to 10 or 15psi.

[geeman53]

Our SS 2250 sits on a rebar embedded concrete pad next to our garage .Love it !

[Comanchecreek]

I have indoor storage with a dirt floor that I covered with a fine gravel/sand mix. I set 2X12's for the trailer tires to sit on. Not sure if sitting in the dirt harms the tires, but if you look at the spot when you pull away you will see a carbon black spot where the tires were touching the ground. My biggest fear with grass is that it grows long under the rig and gives a path for vermin, and cover for rabbits that can, and will eat you brake wiring, and your trailer wiring in an exposed bottom trailer.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by tosh99

As for ants, keeping food stuff out of trailer helps. On top of that, I spray Raid on everything that comes in contact with the ground during ant season.

The only food stuff in there right now is some salt & pepper shakers...and some old stale coffee bags (like tea bags) left over from my tent camping days (20 years old at least).

Not sure why I still keep those old coffee bags...

Maybe they are why I've never had an ant or mouse problem...

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by Finster

How has your RAP held up? Did it stay as smooth as it looks in the pic after the roller went over it?
I did not roll mine. When I laid it our local rental place did not have the 2 or 3 ton roller in. All they had available was the 1 ton which I did not think would accomplish much. I spread it out with a truck and snow plow and compressed it the best I could with the truck.
The RAP I received also did not look as refined as yours. Im pretty sure mine came from a local road that was being repaved. It was originally a concrete road that had at least 3 layers of asphalt laid over top so there was a bit of crushed cement mixed in with the RAP. The surface never really packed as much as I would have liked. It seems loose and moves around kind of like walking on pea gravel. And we have a tenancy to pick it up on our shoes and track in in to the trailer when we're packing and unpacking. It works, and it was cheap, but those are some of the reasons Im considering replacing it with concrete. If im already doing the pad in front of my garage, I might as well.

Our milling were recycled from a state highway improvement. The contractor that did this does roads and parking lots. When they quoted price, I thought they would excavate the drive bed, deliver the millings and level it with a bob cat. But, they came in with guns blazing and all the equipment for a first class job. They not only rolled the millings, but the bed as-well. It does not rut, but there are still bits that don't adhere. These do not track and the surface, nor the bits, get sticky in the heat. At some point, we may have it sealed, spraying rather than rolling. But for us, it is fine as-is.

As you can see in the pictures, our concrete drive exited to the easement drive that is along side our new drive. Long story, about 12 years worth, and we got our own drive exit to the road. Two brothers, relatives removed of the property owner, (AKA misfits in society), who do not live there and have absolutely no interest in the property, have convinced the elderly owner of the property that we were trying to take her property by adverse possession. That's pretty tough to do on an easement.

After a lawsuit and counter suit over what is an easement, we came out way better than expected. Our title policy payed the tab and we have a strong preference for our own drive. I have had an aggravated assault attempt, eggs thrown at the house, and harassments. These people are in their 60s into the 90s. Can one imagine a guy in his mid-sixties being caught on cameras with an open egg carton in the left hand, and egg in the right hand entering the property with sequential pictures of one less egg in the carton at the point of an egg thrown at the house? Pretty cut and dried with the sheriff. Being sore losers, one of the brothers has peeled out across our drive several times at the highway easement and has not been able to damage the drive surface. The grass has not fared as-well until we put up a fence. We have stood our ground. As the saying goes, you can not fix stupid. But it did answer your question on rutting!

[Johnfort]

If you do use gravel, DON'T use round river rock! Use chipped rock. The river rock will never pack down. It's like driving over mud. After a contractor put in my river rock drive I was very disappointed and ultimately put in concrete which is absolutely wonderful. A bit pricey, but it's done forever!

[TheWolfPaq82]

I've been to RV dealers that store all the RV's on Asphalt and I've been to RV dealers that store all the RV's on Gravel. Sometimes those units will sit there for a year or two until they're sold. Apparently it doesn't make much difference. Do what you feel comfortable with...or can afford. Put the wheels on treated 2x12 if you feel the need.

[Velosprout]

Originally Posted by Johnfort

If you do use gravel, DON'T use round river rock! Use chipped rock. The river rock will never pack down. It's like driving over mud. After a contractor put in my river rock drive I was very disappointed and ultimately put in concrete which is absolutely wonderful. A bit pricey, but it's done forever!

The river gravel makes a good fill. I needed a lot of gravel thickness for a pole building RV garage, so we used a base of limestone, filled with river-run gravel, and topped off the surface with limestone road pack If you are near an old coal mine, “Red Dog” red shale can make a good base or fill underneath your finish gravel as well. The river-run rock and shale are a cheaper alternative for a base or internal fill, but as Johnfort says, not good for the surface gravel.

[kisatchie]

I made pads for my TT's tires out of treated 2x10's covered with sheet aluminum so the wood won't suck the oil out of the rubber.

[wanderer26]

I had a 70’ x 12’ concrete pad poured next to my garage a few years ago for my rv with a slope to drain off water. It cost me $9,000.00. Now we only spend a few months here in the summer and winter in texas. I also had a new porch poured as well as the first slab of a double wide driveway just out of the garage. That was part of the $9,000.00. Use concrete if you can afford it but asphalt or stone will work just as well.