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Old 02-21-2016, 02:12 PM   #31
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When I winterize my Georgetown 327DS, the compressed air going in through the city water connection will blow out around 80% of the water in the filter canister. I remove it , remove the filter, then reinstall it an continue blowing out the system. When all water is out, I run antifreeze in through the winterize hose to fill the sediment filter and pump housing with antifreeze. It's easy to see when this happens because the pink stuff starts filling the filter housing.

The filter housing is removed, dumped, threads wiped dry, and reinstalled until dewinterizing. Antifreeze is used to fill the traps and some is also poured into the toilet to make sure that there's some down at the black tank gate valve.

I've been doing this for five years now, with the RV sitting in Northern Ohio when winterized. We've had no problems with water leaks from freezing in the pipes.

Phil
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:28 PM   #32
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good bye filter

Well one thing leads to another... the filter is gone (but can be reinstalled) and repaced with a valve. Why a valve? Cause I used the parts I had in the drawer to prevent a HD trip...

Wont miss the water festival when winterizing...
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:22 AM   #33
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Well one thing leads to another... the filter is gone (but can be reinstalled) and repaced with a valve. Why a valve? Cause I used the parts I had in the drawer to prevent a HD trip...



Wont miss the water festival when winterizing...

Hoglou, how did you get the filter cap off the black plywood? I was going to remove mine and just make a bypass setup but couldn't figure out how to get to the screws holding the bracket that secures the cap for the canister. Your system looks just like ours.
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:13 AM   #34
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If you remove the filter element and then use compressed air (or antifreeze with the bypass) the filter housing will remain full of water. The pump will push water only through the top of the empty housing since there is no filter to force circulation down to the bottom. And...don't do what I first did. You can't get the housing off with water pressure in the system! Open a faucet and you can easily unscrew it.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:51 PM   #35
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Offset no.2 phillips screw driver. There are four screws on the top of filter bracket. Take it off first then unscrew the brass fittings. About 3 minutes a screw..... I later found my 1/4" wratched wrench that I could of put a bit in to then the removal would have been speeder. Tip to tip from the installed brass fittings on the filter top is 7.5 inches for the replacement pex line (finshed length with fittings). I just used a valve cause I was out of pex x 1/2 MPT ( Apollo PEX - APXMA 1212).

I have a water gizmo station I built in the rear of the coach bay. Hind sight would tell me to put a "t " fitting on the replacement pex line and add a little colied water hose instead. I have water access in the power cord bay and use it frequently to wash down the items from coach water. You get some interesting looks at the rest stop when you have your strechy coil hose out and washing you windshield in the truck lot..

No��
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:56 PM   #36
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Don't forget the clear little filter bowl on the sureflo pump. My first season I didn't even know it was there but by Spring, I found out real quick that it had cracked. Luckily it was a common part and a local dealer had it for $5.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:09 PM   #37
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Don't forget the clear little filter bowl on the sureflo pump. My first season I didn't even know it was there but by Spring, I found out real quick that it had cracked. Luckily it was a common part and a local dealer had it for $5.
One more reason to draw antifreeze into the system for those of you who just blow the lines out with compressed air.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:34 PM   #38
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Lowe's part number would be very helpful...... Since our travel schedule is so random ( I mean we have decided on a tues that wen morning we are going for two day to see the grandsons) I often don't winterize when I should. Instead I open the outside shower and drain the fresh and use a thermo controled heat lamp (75 watt bulb) in the water bay. I do heat / cool the coach 24/7/365.

But we are in dixie....
See picture below for part number and brand. This will replace anyone who has the Water Pur Canister Part # CCI-10-CLW.

Also, thx for the info on how to get the cap off the bracket.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:56 PM   #39
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One more reason to draw antifreeze into the system for those of you who just blow the lines out with compressed air.
Not really, I just unscrew the thing and dump it out.. Now it cannot freeze.

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Old 02-22-2016, 10:57 PM   #40
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Not really, I just unscrew the thing and dump it out.. Now it cannot freeze.
Draw in antifreeze or unscrew and dump out... Still just another step needed if you only blow out with compressed air.
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