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Old 02-19-2016, 04:12 PM   #21
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DJ - do you have any pics of your filter bypass? Sounds like a mod I'd like to do to my tt. thanks - Cincia
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Old 02-20-2016, 10:37 AM   #22
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I had a canister & the housing back a couple of years back,,, I swear after I blew the sys. out & ran a couple gallons anti-freeze thru it,, that I then emptied the canister,,,
evidently not !!! In our Sunseeker 2500TS,,, it was a REAL PITA,,, to replace Filter housing because one of the tanks sits right on top of it !!!
I wish I had a $ for every broken canister I have read about !!!
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:35 PM   #23
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When I winterize, after I drain all the water I use the suction tube to draw the antifreeze right from the bottle. That way, it goes through the pump, sediment filter, and filter canister before going through the rest of the plumbing without having to put the pink stuff in the fresh water tank. After all spigots, toilet, and shower are flowing pink, I unscrew the filter canister just enough that the antifreeze inside fills the threads and starts to leak out the top, then re-tighten...this ensures there's no water trapped in the threads.
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:44 PM   #24
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I just dump my canister after running antifreeze through and leave it off.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:38 AM   #25
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Here's my story, if anyone is interested. The DW is taking our unit to Moab for a dog trial next weekend. Told her we better pull it out and de-winterize and check all systems. While my Sat. breakfast with the boys, I got a txt from the DW. See attached picture. Well, there goes my Sat. We tried 2 CW and a couple of other MH supply companies in town and no one had the exact canister. One of the CW's had a universal one, which she went to pick up. By the time I got home she was back with it and when we went to install (should only take a minute), it would not screw on the existing head. Close but no cigar. Next thing I thought is to bypass filter for now, so I went to Lowes to get the necessary plumbing. While I was there I saw a whirlpool water filter canister that looked like it might work. So I bought it and if it didn't work, I was just take it back for a refund. Our Lowes only 3 miles from the house. Got home and low and behold it fit. Only $20 versus $40 with shipping for the canister that broke.

When winterizing this unit for our first time, we did use the air method. I did see water in the canister after blowing out all the lines and emptied it before parking it for the winter. Guess we won't put the canister back on next winter when winterizing. Lesson learned. Oh, the rest of the systems are OK. Holding water pressure. Guess it could have been worse. Happy camping this season to all.
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:16 AM   #26
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I just dump my canister after running antifreeze through and leave it off.
That is the safest way !!!
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:22 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by rad_jr View Post
When I winterize, after I drain all the water I use the suction tube to draw the antifreeze right from the bottle. That way, it goes through the pump, sediment filter, and filter canister before going through the rest of the plumbing without having to put the pink stuff in the fresh water tank. After all spigots, toilet, and shower are flowing pink, I unscrew the filter canister just enough that the antifreeze inside fills the threads and starts to leak out the top, then re-tighten...this ensures there's no water trapped in the threads.
Love those Winterizing Kits,,,
I had installed one in our old TT,,, can't find room in our Sunseeker !!!
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:41 AM   #28
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Lowe's part number would be very helpful...... Since our travel schedule is so random ( I mean we have decided on a tues that wen morning we are going for two day to see the grandsons) I often don't winterize when I should. Instead I open the outside shower and drain the fresh and use a thermo controled heat lamp (75 watt bulb) in the water bay. I do heat / cool the coach 24/7/365.

But we are in dixie....
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:16 AM   #29
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Lowe's part number would be very helpful...... Since our travel schedule is so random ( I mean we have decided on a tues that wen morning we are going for two day to see the grandsons) I often don't winterize when I should. Instead I open the outside shower and drain the fresh and use a thermo controled heat lamp (75 watt bulb) in the water bay. I do heat / cool the coach 24/7/365.

But we are in dixie....
Looks like Lowes has 2 10' Whirlpool Whole house filter,,,
neither looked like our canister ???
Wal-Mart may sell a Camco canister that might work ???
Not sure why RV dealers never seam to have more than 1 in stock,,,
If any ??? Also remember we don't all have the same filter !!!
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:55 AM   #30
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Never had our filter canister freeze but we do stay pretty much south in the colder months. I removed the filter from the inside of the RV and bypassed it, about $2.00 worth of fittings and 1/2 hr in time. I have the original filter set up for use outside the RV, should it leak it's all outside. I had a few cartridges for the F1 is why I stayed with the same F1, it does a good job.
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:12 PM   #31
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When I winterize my Georgetown 327DS, the compressed air going in through the city water connection will blow out around 80% of the water in the filter canister. I remove it , remove the filter, then reinstall it an continue blowing out the system. When all water is out, I run antifreeze in through the winterize hose to fill the sediment filter and pump housing with antifreeze. It's easy to see when this happens because the pink stuff starts filling the filter housing.

The filter housing is removed, dumped, threads wiped dry, and reinstalled until dewinterizing. Antifreeze is used to fill the traps and some is also poured into the toilet to make sure that there's some down at the black tank gate valve.

I've been doing this for five years now, with the RV sitting in Northern Ohio when winterized. We've had no problems with water leaks from freezing in the pipes.

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Old 02-21-2016, 02:28 PM   #32
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good bye filter

Well one thing leads to another... the filter is gone (but can be reinstalled) and repaced with a valve. Why a valve? Cause I used the parts I had in the drawer to prevent a HD trip...

Wont miss the water festival when winterizing...
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:22 AM   #33
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Well one thing leads to another... the filter is gone (but can be reinstalled) and repaced with a valve. Why a valve? Cause I used the parts I had in the drawer to prevent a HD trip...



Wont miss the water festival when winterizing...

Hoglou, how did you get the filter cap off the black plywood? I was going to remove mine and just make a bypass setup but couldn't figure out how to get to the screws holding the bracket that secures the cap for the canister. Your system looks just like ours.
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:13 AM   #34
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If you remove the filter element and then use compressed air (or antifreeze with the bypass) the filter housing will remain full of water. The pump will push water only through the top of the empty housing since there is no filter to force circulation down to the bottom. And...don't do what I first did. You can't get the housing off with water pressure in the system! Open a faucet and you can easily unscrew it.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:51 PM   #35
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Offset no.2 phillips screw driver. There are four screws on the top of filter bracket. Take it off first then unscrew the brass fittings. About 3 minutes a screw..... I later found my 1/4" wratched wrench that I could of put a bit in to then the removal would have been speeder. Tip to tip from the installed brass fittings on the filter top is 7.5 inches for the replacement pex line (finshed length with fittings). I just used a valve cause I was out of pex x 1/2 MPT ( Apollo PEX - APXMA 1212).

I have a water gizmo station I built in the rear of the coach bay. Hind sight would tell me to put a "t " fitting on the replacement pex line and add a little colied water hose instead. I have water access in the power cord bay and use it frequently to wash down the items from coach water. You get some interesting looks at the rest stop when you have your strechy coil hose out and washing you windshield in the truck lot..

No��
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:56 PM   #36
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Don't forget the clear little filter bowl on the sureflo pump. My first season I didn't even know it was there but by Spring, I found out real quick that it had cracked. Luckily it was a common part and a local dealer had it for $5.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:09 PM   #37
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Don't forget the clear little filter bowl on the sureflo pump. My first season I didn't even know it was there but by Spring, I found out real quick that it had cracked. Luckily it was a common part and a local dealer had it for $5.
One more reason to draw antifreeze into the system for those of you who just blow the lines out with compressed air.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:34 PM   #38
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Lowe's part number would be very helpful...... Since our travel schedule is so random ( I mean we have decided on a tues that wen morning we are going for two day to see the grandsons) I often don't winterize when I should. Instead I open the outside shower and drain the fresh and use a thermo controled heat lamp (75 watt bulb) in the water bay. I do heat / cool the coach 24/7/365.

But we are in dixie....
See picture below for part number and brand. This will replace anyone who has the Water Pur Canister Part # CCI-10-CLW.

Also, thx for the info on how to get the cap off the bracket.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:56 PM   #39
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One more reason to draw antifreeze into the system for those of you who just blow the lines out with compressed air.
Not really, I just unscrew the thing and dump it out.. Now it cannot freeze. [emoji41]

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Old 02-22-2016, 10:57 PM   #40
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Not really, I just unscrew the thing and dump it out.. Now it cannot freeze. [emoji41]
Draw in antifreeze or unscrew and dump out... Still just another step needed if you only blow out with compressed air.
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