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Old 03-09-2016, 08:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon 2 View Post
Just checked with our dealer here in Kelowna and a 50 foot role of eterna bond tape 6 inches wide is $250.00.

Brandon2
2500 Sun Seeker2500TS
Brandon,

In my humble opinion, your RV dealer is taking advantage of you.
His prices are beyond ridiculous.

The internet is your friend.
Herk
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:33 PM   #22
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Go to Amazon for the Eternabond. Big savings.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:39 PM   #23
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Brandon 2

Try Home Hardware. They have the 4" x 50'- 97.00 Cdn and packages of shorter 4" x 5' 15.00 Cdn

https://www.homehardware.ca/en/cat/s...tt=Eterna+Bond


amazon would be good, too, but with Home Hardware you would not pay shipping.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:43 PM   #24
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Herk, I just priced the 6" X 50' rolls on Amazon, and it was $83, free shipping, which is what I paid for it last August. Also, I wanted to ask you about the vent issue. You mentioned that the vents need changing after ten years or so. I assume you are referring to the plastics degrading from UV. Do you think a couple coats of white paint might allow for a longer life span?
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:23 PM   #25
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Herk, I just priced the 6" X 50' rolls on Amazon, and it was $83, free shipping, which is what I paid for it last August. Also, I wanted to ask you about the vent issue. You mentioned that the vents need changing after ten years or so. I assume you are referring to the plastics degrading from UV. Do you think a couple coats of white paint might allow for a longer life span?
I think you are confusing me with txredfish.

I was just saying that carefully cutting away the EB from fittings or vents is not as big a deal as you might think.

Prime is awesome all right.
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:30 PM   #26
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Yep, I did. I guess trying to speed read with an old brain isn't a great idea. Sorry...��
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:33 PM   #27
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Eternabond use

I used Eternabond tape to repair a tear along a 5 ft section of the roof edge and the seal was excellent. I recommend using the Eternabond cleaner and primer prior to application, and then be extra careful as you lay it down...once it sticks it's there !
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:58 PM   #28
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Check the Eternabond web site. At one time they had instructions on how to remove. They also have very good instructions on how to apply on their web site. Also, in this thread, there has been several good tips. Yes, my my vents were bad due to UV rays, and leaving it outside in the Texas heat. I don't know if white paint will help. There may be some paint that may help with the UV.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:49 AM   #29
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Davidg, I'm with Lou (Herk) on the entire Eternabond application versus Dicor. I have a Forester so my roof is the same as your Sunseeker. I had numerous leaks at the front transition strip. The Dicor installed at the factory had bubbles that developed in the bead. I also found that parts of the Dicor were releasing from the fiberglass roof. I removed all the Dicor along that transition. I laid two overlapping 2" strips of Eternabond and then a 4" strip over that. Removing the Dicor wasn't too bad. I felt a lot better about the good seal of the Eternabond straight to the roof cap and the fiberglass roof. I also went around some of the edges of the Eternabond with a bead of Geocel. I find Geocel to work a lot better at sealing to the fiberglass.

I also used Eternabond around all my vent and skylight edges. Once I saw how easily the Dicor was coming up from the fiberglass I didn't trust it.

Bobby
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:26 AM   #30
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Davidg, I'm with Lou (Herk) on the entire Eternabond application versus Dicor. I have a Forester so my roof is the same as your Sunseeker. Bobby
Bobby, sounds like you have done a great job re-sealing the roof of your rv. I'm sure it will give you years of leak free use. I do not have a Sunseeker.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:26 AM   #31
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I just repaired the roof on my neighbor's motorhome toyhauler with a 5 foot piece of leftover 6 inch wide EB from my install 5 years ago. It saved his butt big time.

Happy neighbors are happy campers!
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:33 AM   #32
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I do not have a Sunseeker.
Sorry, my mistake. Since the post was in Sunseeker and you mentioned fiberglass roof (most Class C and Class A Forest River units) I assumed you had one.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:00 AM   #33
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It may come as a shock to some, but RV technicians work on all kinds of "homes on wheels" from pop ups to Diesel Pushers. In fact, many don't even own one.

Yet somehow your units eventually get fixed by these "not my kind of camper" folks. A few have even come here for advice on a particularly thorny problem.

I would not turn away from advice received on an open forum from anyone, especially if the only reason was "they did not have what I camp in".

Remember, in the end, it will still be Caveat Lector (Reader Beware) regardless. Just because someone has your model of camper, he may know even less than you do.



EB works on ALL kinds of roof materials from rubber to plastic to EPDM to fiberglass. It also sticks quite well to aluminum fastening and structural materials.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:30 PM   #34
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Seems like there is a lot of deterioration with roof vents. Once you put Maxx Airs on them the protection is there and its much easier to replace a Maxx Air cover than a roof vent. They do a great job of protecting the roof vents plus you can leave them open in the weather and no rain will ever enter your unit. We placed them on all of our roof vents.


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Old 03-11-2016, 06:25 PM   #35
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Thanks so much for all the great info posted, I think I know what I need to do now. I always cover stuff and that really helps to protect stuff from the elements but wondering if I'd be doing more harm by walking on the roof. Let's see, being optimistic if I can get out once every 1-2 months I'd need to go up top 6-12 times per year to get the cover on.

In this area many days per year with hot, dry weather.

I guess I'm not clear on the extent of damage that can happen by going up there, even with bunny slippers on. Thoughts on using a cover or not?

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Old 03-11-2016, 06:54 PM   #36
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Cover or no cover

That is the question, who uses a cover on there Sunseeker?
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:06 PM   #37
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Personally, I would look at the dealer's lot.
How many covers do you see?
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:18 PM   #38
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covers

I definitely see what you're saying, however dealers are trying to sell and move product they're not hoping to be on the lot for too long in my opinion so why would they care about protecting the roof from the sun or rain?
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:41 PM   #39
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I definitely see what you're saying, however dealers are trying to sell and move product they're not hoping to be on the lot for too long in my opinion so why would they care about protecting the roof from the sun or rain?
Unsold campers can sit on a dealer's lot for years. They are not all 2016's

If I was storing my camper under a tree that generates sap, I would consider a cover. As it is, I just wash my roof every spring.

I do cover the air conditioner to keep bugs and debris out over the winter.

There are also folks who swear by their covers and take the wind flapping roof wear damage as the price you pay for protecting your vinyl decals.

Do what feels right to you.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:03 PM   #40
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Interesting about covers and maxx airs covers over the roof vents. We purchased an elements cover for our Sun Seeker from camping world. Tyvec on top covering the roof and very soft material on the sides. Thus over this past winter no damage at all from wind or rain. There is another one made by Adco and is almost the same. cost for our Sun Seeker 25 foot TS was 500.00 Canadian. Lots of very hot weather here in the Okanagan and some snow in the winter. so it protected the unit very
well. I would not have an RV without Maxx air covers over all the vents.
I know a lot of units are not covered when not in use but that is their problem. The size of the investment well covers the cost of the cover.


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