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Old 09-02-2014, 01:42 PM   #1
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coach battery replacement recommendation

I am thinking it may be time to replace my coach batteries on a 2012 sunseeker 2300. I have been using it for approximately 4 long road trips a year and 4 to 5 weekend trips a year since April 2011. 3 times the batteries have gone too low to run anything while I have been on the road. All 3 times something has been left turned on by accident. They drain too low to start the generator leaving me powerless until I can plug in somewhere. What is a good replacement brand/type for my typical usage. Also my stair tread on the stair over the batteries needs replacing. It has torn at the screw connection and constantly slides off. Does anyone know where I could order a replacement for the stair tread.

Thanks for any input/information.
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First RV was a 1968 Nimrod popup
Second RV is a 2012 Sunseeker 2300
nights camped 2011: 42
nights camped 2012: 48
nights camped 2013: 40
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:51 PM   #2
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What type, size, and quantity of batteries do you have now?
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:06 PM   #3
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2 12v I think the brand is Exide and there is a 27 something sticker on them. Not at the RV right now. Will take a photo when I get a chance.
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:33 PM   #4
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No need. That's plenty of info. They are group 27's... pretty nice batteries. If those seemed to fit your needs then I would just stick with the same group size with the highest amp hour rating I could find that fit my budget.

If you don't do much dry camping your packin a lot of juice with 2 of those.
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:01 PM   #5
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Is this typical for the lifespan? I've had them 3.5 years.
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First RV was a 1968 Nimrod popup
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nights camped 2012: 48
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:12 PM   #6
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Is this typical for the lifespan? I've had them 3.5 years.
Yup. Pretty typical with a stock RV charging system. Some folks only get 2 years out of theirs so 3.5 ain't too shabby. Ya done good
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:00 PM   #7
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You can start the chassis engine which will charge the coach batteries. The chassis engine alternator is also strong enough to start the generator as well.

Not sure but your post seems to indicate that you can't charge the coach batteries with the chassis alternator. On some 2012 models a 5 amp fuse in the battery control circuit was left out by the factory. This prevented the chassis alternator from charging the coach batteries. I read about the problem on this forum and found my unit was missing the fuse. You can check if you have the issue by opening the battery control circuit box, located in the step well. There are two rows of fuse connectors. there should be a 5 amp fuse on the right side bottom position. To my knowledge the factory knows of the problem but did not issue any recall.

As far as battery life, you should get more years but since you deep cycled the batteries so many times they are likely bad.
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:05 PM   #8
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I also read about that fuse but never could find it. When the battery runs down it doesn't charge back while driving. Does anyone have a picture of where that fuse would be?
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nights camped 2012: 48
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:06 PM   #9
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Jane

They are indeed Group 27 Batteries. The Group 27 refers to physical size of the batteries as well as the electrical characteristics.

There are basically three types of batteries.
First is a Starting Battery. This is what you have under the hood to start the engine. They offer high amps (Cold Cranking Amps or CCA’s) for a relatively short time in order to turn an engine over when starting. They don’t have a very high reserve capacity and will not recover if drained too low, too often. Second is a hybrid commonly referred to as a Marine or RV Battery. These too will offer a rated Cold Cranking Amp rating and an Amp Hour reserve capacity. They are intended to start a Marine Engine and run a trolling electric motor as well. They can handle more draining than a starting battery but not nearly as much as a Deep Cycle. The Last is really what you want for coach batteries and they are a True Deep cycle Battery. These are list listed with a Reserve Amp Hour Ratings. These are intended to be more deeply “drained” and the recharged. They can be use to start a Generator as well.

There are several Deep Cycle Batteries. Most Common are Flooded (wet) that require periodically checking the fluid (acid) levels in the batteries. These are what your Exide’s are. Exide’s nominally are 85 to 90 Amp Hour Batteries (each). You did check the fluid levels right? These are the least expensive Batteries. Trojan, and Deka are preferred Wet Battery mfg’s

Next is an AGM (absorbed glass mat) Battery which is a special design glass mat designed to wick the battery electrolyte between the battery plates. They are for the most part, sealed, non spillable, deep cycle, may be mounted in any position, low self discharge, and are safer for use in limited ventilation areas. These are pretty much maintenance free. They don’t have to be removed from the coach in the winter to prevent freezing like a wet cell battery does. Of Course, these are more expensive.

I am using two Lifeline Group 27 AGM Batteries Click HERE in my Forester. My last RV was a Lance Truck Camper that used a single Lifeline Battery that lasted me ten years of mostly dry camping with a 70W solar panel (I think I “Plugged in" a total of 5 times in the ten years)
The Lifelines made a believer out of me as I never ran out of power when in use and I am expecting them to last a very long time. I paid $270 each to my door online.

The Fuse Panel that ATVer is referring to is located in the step well and looks like this, Click HERE
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:19 PM   #10
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I also read about that fuse but never could find it. When the battery runs down it doesn't charge back while driving. Does anyone have a picture of where that fuse would be?
If you couldn't find a 5 amp fuse in the panel it's probably because it isn't there. Yes the coach batteries should charge back up while driving as long as the fuse is there. The circuit also controls the emergency start circuit activated by the switch under the drivers seat.
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