coach battery replacement recommendation

janegraves · 09-02-2014, 12:42 PM

I am thinking it may be time to replace my coach batteries on a 2012 sunseeker 2300. I have been using it for approximately 4 long road trips a year and 4 to 5 weekend trips a year since April 2011. 3 times the batteries have gone too low to run anything while I have been on the road. All 3 times something has been left turned on by accident. They drain too low to start the generator leaving me powerless until I can plug in somewhere. What is a good replacement brand/type for my typical usage. Also my stair tread on the stair over the batteries needs replacing. It has torn at the screw connection and constantly slides off. Does anyone know where I could order a replacement for the stair tread.

Thanks for any input/information.

rana · 09-02-2014, 12:51 PM

What type, size, and quantity of batteries do you have now?

janegraves · 09-02-2014, 01:06 PM

2 12v I think the brand is Exide and there is a 27 something sticker on them. Not at the RV right now. Will take a photo when I get a chance.

rana · 09-02-2014, 01:33 PM

No need. That's plenty of info. They are group 27's... pretty nice batteries. If those seemed to fit your needs then I would just stick with the same group size with the highest amp hour rating I could find that fit my budget.

If you don't do much dry camping your packin a lot of juice with 2 of those.

janegraves · 09-02-2014, 02:01 PM

Is this typical for the lifespan? I've had them 3.5 years.

rana · 09-02-2014, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janegraves

Is this typical for the lifespan? I've had them 3.5 years.

Yup. Pretty typical with a stock RV charging system. Some folks only get 2 years out of theirs so 3.5 ain't too shabby. Ya done good

ATVer · 09-02-2014, 03:00 PM

You can start the chassis engine which will charge the coach batteries. The chassis engine alternator is also strong enough to start the generator as well.

Not sure but your post seems to indicate that you can't charge the coach batteries with the chassis alternator. On some 2012 models a 5 amp fuse in the battery control circuit was left out by the factory. This prevented the chassis alternator from charging the coach batteries. I read about the problem on this forum and found my unit was missing the fuse. You can check if you have the issue by opening the battery control circuit box, located in the step well. There are two rows of fuse connectors. there should be a 5 amp fuse on the right side bottom position. To my knowledge the factory knows of the problem but did not issue any recall.

As far as battery life, you should get more years but since you deep cycled the batteries so many times they are likely bad.

janegraves · 09-02-2014, 03:05 PM

I also read about that fuse but never could find it. When the battery runs down it doesn't charge back while driving. Does anyone have a picture of where that fuse would be?

Deaver · 09-02-2014, 08:06 PM

Jane

They are indeed Group 27 Batteries. The Group 27 refers to physical size of the batteries as well as the electrical characteristics.

There are basically three types of batteries.
First is a Starting Battery. This is what you have under the hood to start the engine. They offer high amps (Cold Cranking Amps or CCA’s) for a relatively short time in order to turn an engine over when starting. They don’t have a very high reserve capacity and will not recover if drained too low, too often. Second is a hybrid commonly referred to as a Marine or RV Battery. These too will offer a rated Cold Cranking Amp rating and an Amp Hour reserve capacity. They are intended to start a Marine Engine and run a trolling electric motor as well. They can handle more draining than a starting battery but not nearly as much as a Deep Cycle. The Last is really what you want for coach batteries and they are a True Deep cycle Battery. These are list listed with a Reserve Amp Hour Ratings. These are intended to be more deeply “drained” and the recharged. They can be use to start a Generator as well.

There are several Deep Cycle Batteries. Most Common are Flooded (wet) that require periodically checking the fluid (acid) levels in the batteries. These are what your Exide’s are. Exide’s nominally are 85 to 90 Amp Hour Batteries (each). You did check the fluid levels right? These are the least expensive Batteries. Trojan, and Deka are preferred Wet Battery mfg’s

Next is an AGM (absorbed glass mat) Battery which is a special design glass mat designed to wick the battery electrolyte between the battery plates. They are for the most part, sealed, non spillable, deep cycle, may be mounted in any position, low self discharge, and are safer for use in limited ventilation areas. These are pretty much maintenance free. They don’t have to be removed from the coach in the winter to prevent freezing like a wet cell battery does. Of Course, these are more expensive.

I am using two Lifeline Group 27 AGM Batteries Click HERE in my Forester. My last RV was a Lance Truck Camper that used a single Lifeline Battery that lasted me ten years of mostly dry camping with a 70W solar panel (I think I “Plugged in" a total of 5 times in the ten years)
The Lifelines made a believer out of me as I never ran out of power when in use and I am expecting them to last a very long time. I paid $270 each to my door online.

The Fuse Panel that ATVer is referring to is located in the step well and looks like this, Click HERE

ATVer · 09-02-2014, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janegraves

I also read about that fuse but never could find it. When the battery runs down it doesn't charge back while driving. Does anyone have a picture of where that fuse would be?

If you couldn't find a 5 amp fuse in the panel it's probably because it isn't there. Yes the coach batteries should charge back up while driving as long as the fuse is there. The circuit also controls the emergency start circuit activated by the switch under the drivers seat.

janegraves · 09-02-2014, 08:30 PM

Thank you everyone for all the help and info. I will have my son hunt down the fuse panel and check all the fuses as well as the water levels. Hopefully I can get a little more use out of these batteries once they charge when driving. I'm sure it is the cause of my problems because I cannot start the generator when the batteries are low and the engine is running and if the alternator was connected, it would have started.

Anyone know where I can order a replacement tread for that step over the batteries?

Deaver · 09-02-2014, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janegraves

Anyone know where I can order a replacement tread for that step over the batteries?

I was able to get a replacement for mine (tore in the same place as yours) from the factory.

Contact: Greg Wagner (574) 206-7622, gwagner@forestriverinc.com

bgilly · 09-02-2014, 09:43 PM

Jane, I'm thinking parasitic drain is what is killing your batteries. As ATVer pointed out you may also have additional electrical issues.
The parasitic drain will ruin even deep cycle batteries. With the coach unplugged or the battery switch turned off - the deep cycle batteries will drain from 12 volt devices in the coach such as the CO detector. I know with my coach, if I leave it off a float charge for more than a couple weeks the coach battery voltage will get down to around 11 volts. The danger zone for batteries is getting below 10.5 volts.
When you get your new batteries installed, make sure to keep a float charge on them as much as possible.
If its not possible to charge when stored then you should remove the batteries and place them on a float charge at home.

Your alternator might be sending a charge to the batteries but they just aren't taking the charge any longer. One way to check is to measure the voltage at the coach batteries with the engine running and the shore cord unplugged. Check the voltage at the chassis battery and compare it at the coach battery. They should be fairly close - around 13 volts. If the coach battery voltage is significantly lower then you have an open fuse or circuit between the chassis charging system and the coach batteries.

Bobby

RamblerGuy · 09-03-2014, 04:42 AM

You can tell if the chassis alternator is charging the coach batteries by the battery lights on the convenience panel. If you have more with the engine running than without it running, it's working.

If the coach batteries are dead or very low the battery control center may cycle on and off every few minutes so it doesn't overload the alternator and drain the chassis battery.

You can tell if the chassis alternator is charging the coach batteries by the battery lights on the convenience panel. If you have more with the engine running than without it's working.

If the coach batteries are dead or very low the battery control center may cycle on and off every few minutes so it doesn't overload the alternator and drain the chassis battery.

There's a download in the forum for the battery control center's "BIRD" - Bi-directional Relay Delay. The Bird connects the coach 12 volt system to the chassis 12 volt system, either for charging the coach batteries from the chassis, charging the chassis battery from the coach, or to connect the coach battery to the chassis battery for emergency starting.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=151

If the chassis alternator is not charging the coach battery at all, there may be a loose connection or blown fuse from the chassis 12 volt system to the "BIRD". There's an in-line fuse left of the steering column in the wire that sends 12 volts to the IGN connection on the BIRD. On our coach the wire is orange. It's hot when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. There are several splices in the line from the fuse to the BIRD, any of which could be a problem.

RvBill3 · 09-03-2014, 05:15 AM

Check for the missing fuse before doing anything else. Your coach batteries should be charging when you are driving. It sounds like the lack of charging while driving is your problem. When the engine is running, your battery meter should have all the lights lit if it is receiving power from the engine. Even with a dead battery, you should have power to start the generator if your engine is running.

When parked in storage, make sure battery disconnect switch is set to off. This turns off power to things like the LP/CO detector and radio that would otherwise drain power. I park mine in a storage yard without shore power and battery will still have 3 lights lit after a month of storage, even in the winter. A properly charged battery (with switch off) will last quite awhile between charges.

2012 Forest River Sunseeker 2300 Chevy

janegraves · 09-03-2014, 12:35 PM

I was looking inside the step, where the batteries, are for the fuse. Silly me. Thanks for all the responses. I love these forums. They have saved me so much!

janegraves · 09-06-2014, 02:45 PM

I found the fuse panel and there was only one fuse in it. The one for the awning. Where can I find the correct fuse for the alternator charging fuse in F1? Do I need any other fuses in the panel? I do have the arctic pack and I saw in the diagram there is a fuse for it. What amp fuse is required for that if I need it?

ATVer · 09-06-2014, 03:55 PM

The fuse needed in F1 is the mini size 5 amp plug in auto fuse that you can find at any auto parts store and even Walmart.

Concerning other spaces without fuses you need to consult the electrical drawings for your model or contact your dealer to determine how your model is optioned and wired to identify what fuses you should have installed. The diagram shown earlier in this post is a generic one provided by the manufacturer of the control box and does not necessarily match how Forest River used it. For example I have the Arctic Pac and they work fine but I do not have a fuse in F9 as the diagram would indicate. I only have 4 of the 9 positions with fuses for my 3120.

janegraves · 09-06-2014, 04:02 PM

I have standard auto fuses and they do not fit in the battery control panel. They are way too big. The one in the awning is smaller than the standard ones that are in auto panels.

ATVer · 09-06-2014, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janegraves

I have standard auto fuses and they do not fit in the battery control panel. They are way too big. The one in the awning is smaller than the standard ones that are in auto panels.

Sorry, I checked mine and you are correct. They are the mini size but still are easily found in auto stores and Walmart.

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